New IM 150 EXT build. Diving into the deep end of the pool

[Naekuh]

Did you line the stand with pond liner? I’ve read that people do this but I don’t know what it would accomplish that a good bead of silicone wouldn’t.

i used a pvc table sheet which is like 120mil.

Very tough, cheap, and water proof.
But i used that to line the bottom of my stand.

Thanks! It’s actually 4” from the wall in the pictures, but I hadn’t accounted for ball valves. I may lean on you a bit as I get this thing going since you just went through it!

Edit: Picture Removed.

you need min, id say 7 inches... more is better tho... unless your 90's at the top are really really low profile...

 

[Doob]

OH i also forgot to let you know, your stand is too close to the back wall...

You need about 4 inches to clear your rear overflow.... and about 7 inches if your going to use ball valves on the return.

I have pictures of the exact messurements, i can show you if you want, but didn't post as i didn't want to steal attention from your thread.

I also finished setting up my IM150 EXT not too long ago, so i am very well versed in that tank.

Lastly, i would keep your doors off until you finished everything.
I can't tell you how much easier access to the bottom of the tank is with the doors off, and you will need to get back there a lot if you haven't finished your plumbing yet.

Is there a reason the ball valve can’t go on in the stand, on the sump end of the pipe? I plan to split the rerun pipe asap to avoid crossing pipes behind the tank.

 

[flatlander93]

I have ran ball valves right in the stand. Worked fine just can’t easily watch water level and see the change at the same time. On my new tank I put it beside the overflow. It’s better if that works for your build.

 

[Naekuh]

Is there a reason the ball valve can’t go on in the stand, on the sump end of the pipe? I plan to split the rerun pipe asap to avoid crossing pipes behind the tank.

I guess you can, but the ball valves i got from IM were setup like that.
They are also unions so the entire fixture would be removed from that joint.

 

[Doob]

Dedicated circuits have been installed. I added one at switch height above the tank for convenience when using a power head to blow rocks off.

 

[BubblesandSqueak]

Dedicated circuits have been installed. I added one at switch height above the tank for convenience when using a power head to blow rocks off.

You could place another up at the ceiling so you don’t have to have the lighting cord running down. (If you’re hanging it up there).

 

[Doob]

Getting this shim situation figured out. What a pain. I hope to get the glass in the house this weekend.

 

[Naekuh]

That top one is sort of dangerous to run a 20a nema 5-20 without a gfci.
Unless you have a gfci at the breaker panel.

Especially since your overflow will probably be located near it.

 

[Doob]

That top one is sort of dangerous to run a 20a nema 5-20 without a gfci.
Unless you have a gfci at the breaker panel.

Especially since your overflow will probably be located near it.

It’s fed from the GFI below it so it’s protected. Thanks for looking out!

 

[BubblesandSqueak]

Getting this shim situation figured out. What a pain. I hope to get the glass in the house this weekend.

let other people chime in but I'm not sure you need to go crazy like that with the side shimming. the corner supports are what is really your targets. along with the front and back center supports/verticals.

 

[X-37B]

let other people chime in but I'm not sure you need to go crazy like that with the side shimming. the corner supports are what is really your targets. along with the front and back center supports/verticals.

My 170 which was off almost 3/4" left to right required alot of shims.
I shimmed the one side, the other side sits on the floor. I then placed shims all the way around and also shimmed the cross supports for the sump.
The tanks does not move when cleaning the glass as others have mentioned.
For me its important to do a complete shim when the bottom of your tank is flush with bottom of the stand.
I hid the shim gap with caulking tape.

 

[BubblesandSqueak]

My 170 which was off almost 3/4" left to right required alot of shims.
I shimmed the one side, the other side sits on the floor. I then placed shims all the way around and also shimmed the cross supports for the sump.
The tanks does not move when cleaning the glass as others have mentioned.
For me its important to do a complete shim when the bottom of your tank is flush with bottom of the stand.
I hid the shim gap with caulking tape.

I actually had tank movers place my tank. (since I couldn't lift it and they needed 3) and they only placed a shim under the front two corners for leveling. this is the 36" square stand and just has a back center support apart from the 4 corners. I think it's maybe 1/8" but not 3/4". been like this since I think Nov. maybe I'll drop a level on it and re-check.

 

[BubblesandSqueak]

My 170 which was off almost 3/4" left to right required alot of shims.
I shimmed the one side, the other side sits on the floor. I then placed shims all the way around and also shimmed the cross supports for the sump.
The tanks does not move when cleaning the glass as others have mentioned.
For me its important to do a complete shim when the bottom of your tank is flush with bottom of the stand.
I hid the shim gap with caulking tape.

ok. I just checked. mine is level. but yeah. it's 1/8" gap in the front of the stand between the 2 corner vertical supports. I really think shimming that just closes the gap? was thinking since this is all humidity I'd leave it be and let it breath under the sump shelf? you really think I should shim that? this is the "floating" horizontal? don't these just hold the verticals together straight and not support anything?

 

[X-37B]

ok. I just checked. mine is level. but yeah. it's 1/8" gap in the front of the stand between the 2 corner vertical supports. I really think support.himming that just closes the gap? was thinking since this is all humidity I'd leave it be and let it breath under the sump shelf? you really think I should shim that? this is the "floating" horizontal? don't these just hold the verticals together straight and not support anything?

Im sure it will be fine. I have always prefered full support.

 

[Doob]

My 170 which was off almost 3/4" left to right required alot of shims.
I shimmed the one side, the other side sits on the floor. I then placed shims all the way around and also shimmed the cross supports for the sump.
The tanks does not move when cleaning the glass as others have mentioned.
For me its important to do a complete shim when the bottom of your tank is flush with bottom of the stand.
I hid the shim gap with caulking tape.

I did not shim the cross braces suppoting the sump. Would have never thought of it until you brought it up darn you haha.

 

[Doob]

let other people chime in but I'm not sure you need to go crazy like that with the side shimming. the corner supports are what is really your targets. along with the front and back center supports/verticals.

Idk it's a lot of way to have concentrated on 4 points, especially on ceramic tile. Plus the shims are relatively cheap compared to the rest of the project, they cant hurt.

 

[BubblesandSqueak]

I did not shim the cross braces suppoting the sump. Would have never thought of it until you brought it up darn you haha.

Yeah, I don’t think it needs it. Maybe if it was in the back at the center support but that horizontal I think only supports sump.

 

[BubblesandSqueak]

Idk it's a lot of way to have concentrated on 4 points, especially on ceramic tile. Plus the shims are relatively cheap compared to the rest of the project, they cant hurt.

Yeah. I still have a whole package of them.