OG's 120g build

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OGFrenchHorn

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Time to get to work!

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OGFrenchHorn

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Ok so I got sidetracked and didn't get much plumbing done. Since my fiancés brother came over today I was going to have him go under the house and set up some support for under the tank. I looked at the foundation and it looks like there are big floor joists about 4 feet apart through out the house. The tank sits perpendicular on one joist and that kind of worries me. There's also a support pillar on that joist 4 feet from the wall.

I came up with this idea. I got some RV stabilizing jack stands some wood and load spreaders to run parallel to the joist and would be under each side of the tank

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Oh, by the way he wussed out at the last minute so it didn't get done.

Should I continue with this plan or will the tank be ok? What do you think?
 

Daniel@R2R

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OGFrenchHorn

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Plumbed the drain last night. I need to get one more union so I can line up the angles better

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I also made a cut in the middle so that it relieves pressure on the bulk head (I've cracked the bottom of my old 150 because I didn't do this) and I'm going to put a vinyl coupling to join the pipe back together.

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I'm going to see if I can use a hanging kit to try and make it more secure
 

iiluisii

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The only thing you will hate is placing the return check valve that low. I did the same thing and when the pump is turned off you will hear a super loud bump every time and I mean is loud. I'm ordering another one and planing then as closest I can to the top
 
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OGFrenchHorn

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The only thing you will hate is placing the return check valve that low. I did the same thing and when the pump is turned off you will hear a super loud bump every time and I mean is loud. I'm ordering another one and planing then as closest I can to the top

I don't mind that. The reason I want it near the pump is so that the water level doesn't rise as much when the pump turns off. If I don't like it, I put a union on both sides so I can move it if it bothers me
 

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If you add another 10 feet of 1.5" plumbing draining into your sump, I think that's only going to drain an additional:

π•r²•h, right?

π • .75² • 120" = 212 in³

213in³ / 231 = .91 gallons of water.

Even if it was 2" plumbing it wold only be a little over a gallon and a half.

Am I figuring wrong, or can your sump handle that?

Now if you eliminate the check valve rather than just moving it up, then you might be draining the top two or three inches of tank.

You might end up with 20 extra gallons in your sump during power off that way.....much different! :)

I'd move the check valve up now, personally.
 
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OGFrenchHorn

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If you add another 10 feet of 1.5" plumbing draining into your sump, I think that's only going to drain an additional:

π•r²•h, right?

π • .75² • 120" = 212 in³

213in³ / 231 = .91 gallons of water.

Even if it was 2" plumbing it wold only be a little over a gallon and a half.

Am I figuring wrong, or can your sump handle that?

Now if you eliminate the check valve rather than just moving it up, then you might be draining the top two or three inches of tank.

You might end up with 20 extra gallons in your sump during power off that way.....much different! :)

I'd move the check valve up now, personally.

Is having it that low that much of a problem? I like the idea of it being loud when the water cuts off so I know the return pump isn't on. The way I'm doing the plumbing, it wouldn't be a hassle to change it up.
 

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