Reef-PI build thread, go big or go home

Diamond1

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I have no idea what else I can run off the power supply really. I mean if I can I'd run as much off it as possible to reduce the need for outlet use. The enclosures I have listed in the amazon link are just placeholders for custom ones I am having a friend 3d print. The primary box will actually be 12x12x6 to give me plenty of depth for the outlets and housing the power supply. To be honest everything is very fluid at the moment, I'm willing to change just about anything if it will improve my build.

If you plan on running your Rpi and relay boards from the meanwell power supply you won't need the LM2596 as long as you are using the 5volt relays you linked. I have the same power supply running 2 8 channel 5v relay boards and a Rpi with no issues. I've checked the output of the PS with a multi meter and all 16 relays tuned on with the pi running with no power drop off or fluctuations from it.

Are you planning on using one of the premade boards like a wykat hat, theatrus blue acro board, Michael Lane board or build your own proto pi hat?
 
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Tristanzs

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I was planning to just build my own proto pi hat, I am unfamiliar with the other ones you have listed. I guess I've seen a couple in build threads but having not seen much in the way of differences I figured I'd just build off of one of these https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071WC2...olid=104TCAUWAHXC0&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it . I was thinking if I used the larger board I could run my dosing and PH off the same board and PI module. I'm not sure what that would look like but I'm hoping I can work on a design for that when I am ready to add that functionality. That's also the reason I'm not adding it initially as I'm not sure how to do it. I've seen mention of stacking Pi Hats for extra functionality but really don't understand how it's done or even if it's possible to add those two options in that way.
 

Diamond1

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Depending on the level of circuit building you comfortable with, one of the premade hats might be a good option for you.
@theatrus board is pretty much a plug and play board. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef-pi-base-boards.499890/
@wykat hat requires soldering and adding components to the board with good instruction on github. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef-pi_-pcbs.513733/
@Michael Lane board is the one @Bigtrout used in his build and I believe you can get them populated. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-reef-pi-build-log.458088/

Each board is a bit different in what it can do and how much work you need to do to get them working.
Just something to think about before you start building.
 

Ranjib

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Ranjib

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I was planning to just build my own proto pi hat, I am unfamiliar with the other ones you have listed. I guess I've seen a couple in build threads but having not seen much in the way of differences I figured I'd just build off of one of these https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071WC2...olid=104TCAUWAHXC0&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it . I was thinking if I used the larger board I could run my dosing and PH off the same board and PI module. I'm not sure what that would look like but I'm hoping I can work on a design for that when I am ready to add that functionality. That's also the reason I'm not adding it initially as I'm not sure how to do it. I've seen mention of stacking Pi Hats for extra functionality but really don't understand how it's done or even if it's possible to add those two options in that way.
I was not too happy with the gikfun boards. They are not bad, but the perma proto boards are of better quality and its easier to have separate modules in separate boards than all clubbed ina single board. I would highly recommend using the perm proto hat, which has the GPIO breakout, thats very useful
 

Diamond1

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I ordered a Michael lane board as it seemed to cover pretty much everything pre built. I'll need to go back through my parts list and clean a few things out.

Nice! I think you will be happy with that board. It will be a big time saver for your build and take the guess work out of circuit construction.
 
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Tristanzs

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It's the first actual purchase I've made for my setup, now I'm committed. I do have one question his board is setup to control the optical water level sensors and I'm planning to use the float switch style, will this be an issue? I can run the optical version but felt the less complex the parts the least chance of failure.
 

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It's the first actual purchase I've made for my setup, now I'm committed. I do have one question his board is setup to control the optical water level sensors and I'm planning to use the float switch style, will this be an issue? I can run the optical version but felt the less complex the parts the least chance of failure.

I'm looking into this right now. I just had an issue with an optical sensor and want to try a mechanical switch instead.
 
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Tristanzs

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Placed an order on Amazon, and then went shopping at home depot, I'm really excited to get started.

20190120_140800.jpg
 

Bigtrout

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@Bigtrout I was looking at your build thread and your power supply setup is exactly what I'm wanting to do. I have a couple of questions though and was hoping you could explain it to me.
1) When you run the Black White Red and Brown leads off the power supply to the hat on your PI is that what is powering the PI?
2) I see a Yellow and Grey set of leads going from your power supply to the Relay module, are these used to power the relay itself?
3) It appears they power supplies are ran in series, with a positive, negative, and ground ran from your power distribution area to run them? Is this essentially a passthrough from the source that is feeding the outlets?
4) How are you mounting the power supplies to the din rail?

I really appreciate all of the input I've been receiving and all of the great references that allow me to even approach this project with confidence. I've had very little electrical training and never built a circuit before, thankfully I've got soldering experience from RC cars and other projects.
I use Mike Lanes hat, it has an input for the board that also powers the pi thru the board.
It has a second input to power the uln2803 on the board, you can power that from either 5 or 12 volts depending on whether you use a relay board or an american dj power bar.
These are both powered from one of the 5v 3amp power supplies.

If you look on a 8 channel relay board, you can power it up so that the actual relays themselve can be powered seperately and isolated from everything else. Thats what my second power supply powers. It will also power a second relay board that I am adding.

Yes the 120 volt power just runs and parallels thru one power supply to the other. I used 2 small power supplies vs one big one for 4 reasons. One was cost, as they were 7 dollars on amazon. Second was size. These are 2x2x1 inch approx. The third reason is overcurrent protection. Meanwell RS will shut down if current draw is to big for a number of seconds. powering thru boards and hats where most only will handle 3 amps, I felt it was easier than using one big power supply and having to use fuses. The last reason was isolation, the relay boards which have 120v close to dc voltages are on their own supply so if a board goes haywire, it wont be able to backfeed and kill my pi.

They are mounted wierdly to the din rail. They have screw holes on the back that when screws are installed, let me slide din rail between the screws and "clamp" the supplies to the din rail..
 

Bigtrout

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I ordered a Michael lane board as it seemed to cover pretty much everything pre built. I'll need to go back through my parts list and clean a few things out.
Mike Lane makes a fantastic board, and saved me alot of soldering ;)
It has most of the things you could want as connectors, or pin header breakouts. I ordered premade wire tails to match the connectors on the board. They are JST XH 4 wire and 3 wire connectors. Everything else has pin headers.
 

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Following!
 

Making aqua concoctions: Have you ever tried the Reef Moonshiner Method?

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  • I have not used the moonshiner method.

    Votes: 182 72.8%
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