Light Friendly Clear Mesh Screen Cover for Open Top Tanks-Standard/Rimless-w/Pictures

Acroholic

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Hi everyone,
The following is a step by set how-to for making a mesh lid for those of us with open top tanks. I have always liked open top tanks with hanging lights for ease of maintenance and heat dissipation, but of course, the downside is that certain species of fish, wrasses and gobies come to mind, can jump out of the tank because they don't have the safety a canopy provides.

I own a standard AGA 210 gallon (72†x 24†x 24â€) with top trim, and a custom 100 gallon rimless (30†x 30†x 24â€).

I have several Hawaiian Flame Wrasses in my 210 gallon, and a wrasse and 12 scissortail gobies in my 100 gallon, and the reason I made my screen cover was for them. I lost a couple scissortails to carpet surfing

These clear mesh tops will work for tanks with top trim and tanks that are rimless. I have a set of instructions for placement on rimless tanks as well, located towards the end of this DIY. I know that a mesh top somewhat defeats the aesthetic purpose of a rimless tank, but whether you place one on your tank depends on what fish you have and how likely they are to jump.

So here is how to do it:

Step 1. Pictures of my 210 and 100 gallon tanks.You can see the carpet surfing potential there.
reef1.jpg

reef25.JPG


Step 2. Gather your materials. For anyone that has installed or replaced screening this is a no-brainer. You can source everything at Lowes Home Depot, or any local hardware store You need the appropriate length of 5/16" screen frame, plastic screen corners, plastic screen corner pieces, .140" screening spline, and spline installation tool. Total materials cost to do my 210, except the clear mesh netting, was about $15

reef3.JPG


You also need to decide what type of netting you will use. I have found that the best type, considering the factors of light blocking and opening size, is a clear ¼†square opening, polypropylene mesh. This is the best choice because it allows light penetration, but the opening is small enough to keep small fish like gobies and small wrasses, in the tank if they jump, and since it is 100% polypropylene, it is reef safe. I had to buy a large roll of the stuff, as it is very hard to find in small quantities.

reef4.jpg


Step 3. These are the 4 sections of screen channel I cut for each of the openings I made a cover for, and the plastic corner pieces.

reef5.jpg

Use the instructions on the plastic corner pieces for proper measurements. I used a hacksaw and a miter box. The pieces are simple butt end cuts. The plastic corner pieces are really handy. I determined total length of the inside lip of each section of the 210, then subtracted 1/8" so each cover would go on and off easily.

Step 4. The corner plastic pieces slide into the channel frame. Nearly idiot proof, as they only go in one way.

reef6.JPG


reef7.JPG


reef8.jpg
 
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Picture of the finished frame assembly.
Front:
reef9.jpg

Back
reef10.JPG


Step 5. Pic of the back of the frame. I have 4 Tunze 6105 pumps for circulation, so I used a dremel to edge out an opening on the back of each frame to allow the power cords to pass. You may or may not need to do this depending on your setup. The frame piece is still strong, even after removing that much material.

reef11.jpg


Step 6. Mesh netting installation with spline. The spline material goes into the channel and holds the clear mesh netting. The spline tool is used to push the spline down into the channel. Start in a corner and work your way around all 4 sides. When you make the covers, just don't stretch the netting too tight as you install the spline, because it can bow the aluminum channel inwards, and make the cover not want to lie flat. You want to keep even tension on the mesh as you push the spline into the channel, but not too much tension.

Example of spline installation without the mesh:

reef12.JPG


Spline being installed with mesh.

reef13.JPG


Completed spline installation.

reef14.JPG


Step 7. Trimming the excess screen material away from the frame. I used safety razor blades to trim the excess screen material. You want to work carefully, and cut on the OUTSIDE part of the spline on the side of the channel. This gives you a very clean look. This section is face down, so you don't see it anyways, but a careful trim job here allows the cover to lay down flat on the inner lip of the tank. It just looks better.

reef15.JPG


Completed trim job on screen, bottom side.

reef16.JPG


Completed mesh screen top, right side up.

reef17.JPG
 
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Acroholic

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Step 8. Install on your tank.

210 gallon

reef182.JPG


Another top on my 60 gallon cube.

reef19.JPG


Rimless Instructions.

Please follow the regular instructions, except you need to make the mesh top to the outer dimensions of your rimless tank, meaning the total length and width of the tank, including the glass. This is because the mesh top will sit directly on top of the rimless tank.

Here is how I have my mesh top sit securely on my rimless tank.

Step 1. I cut out two thin pieces of acrylic in the shape of a capital “Lâ€. I then bent each one as you see in the picture below. These were siliconed in place on the back left and right top corners of the left and right glass panel as seen in the picture below. These two pieces hold the mesh top in place when you replace it after feeding or tank maintenance.

reef20.JPG


Step 2. I cut two small pieces of acrylic and siliconed them onto the front left and right top corners of the front glass panel. See picture below. You may need to play with size, as these should be cut to fit the hollow underside of the mesh top front corner pieces.

reef21.JPG


The plastic corner pieces of the mesh top are hollow on the bottom, and the screen top front left and right corners fit over the small plastic pieces siliconed on the front corners of the front glass, and they serve to keep the mesh top in place as it sits on the tank.
reef22.JPG


Completed top on 100 gallon rimless tank.

reef23.JPG


I fabricated plastic handles for the screens on my trimmed tanks to make the tops easier to remove because they slip in pretty flush in the glass channels on my 210 and 60 gallon tanks. The rimless does not really need one.

That is about it. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to send me a PM via the messaging system here.

Best regards,
David
 
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Acroholic

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I purchased a large quantity of the 1/4" opening clear polypropylene mesh, and will post a For Sale thread to sell my extra. The price is very reasonable.
Dave
 

bamachamp92

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I went to Atlanta yesterday and checked out Dave's tanks and the screen tops, and I was very impressed with the tanks and the tops. This screen is light and does not block any light that you can see. If you are looking for a way to keep fish in the tank and not block light, this is it in my opinion. Very nice stuff Dave.
 

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Great idea. Can apply to any size tank. Thats why I love this forum. So many great ideas.Very neat and clean looking on the tank.
 
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I really hated having to put a meshtop on my rimless tank, but I have a school of 12 scissortail gobies in there that love to jump.
Dave
 

Brad Syphus

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I get pm's every week asking how I made mine, and what materials I used.
Now I can just paste this thread to my reply.
Thanks Acroholic.
 

ReeferRob

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I get pm's every week asking how I made mine, and what materials I used.
Now I can just paste this thread to my reply.
Thanks Acroholic.

+1 to that brother!

I went a step further and added a hand blown glass marble that looks like a ricordea on the inside for a handle.

Nice work on the rimless job.
 
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Acroholic

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the tops can be hard to remove if they are in the recessed edges of a top trimmed tank. I cut a piece of that plastic splash guard that comes with glass tops, and attached it with a dab of 2-part epoxy for a handle. makes taking it off for feeding a lot easier.
Dave
 

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your tank looks very nice Dave, I did the same screen for my rimless Elos 3 months ago after losing a expensive :wink:

Keep the good work.
 
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Thanks for your kind words everyone. What I like about these mesh tops, especially the ones for top trimmed tanks, is that they are so easy to make and look so good, that I have had many people visiting my tanks ask me if they came with the tank, meaning is it a stock item?

Only thing that would improve them would be if you could buy black screen frame to match the black trim many tanks have. Haven't been able to find that locally. But the brown I used is a dark brown, so it is not too noticeable.
Dave
 

Sikryd

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Thanks for your kind words everyone. What I like about these mesh tops, especially the ones for top trimmed tanks, is that they are so easy to make and look so good, that I have had many people visiting my tanks ask me if they came with the tank, meaning is it a stock item?

Only thing that would improve them would be if you could buy black screen frame to match the black trim many tanks have. Haven't been able to find that locally. But the brown I used is a dark brown, so it is not too noticeable.
Dave


I paint mine with Krylon Fusion - it makes it looks like it did come stock that way.
I also use the black mesh - it looks a little better to me.
This is one mod I will never go without.
 
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Acroholic

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I had black mesh in mine initially, but there was a good bit of light blockage. I don't see that with the clear mesh.
Dave
 
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How well does the frame hold up around saltwater?

Hi Harry,
The frames hold up great. It is aluminum, so no rust. Mine look like the day I made them months ago. If they get salt creep on them, just take them out and hose them off.
Dave
 

Harry_Y

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Thank you

I was concerned being aluminum since when I was in the Navy
the salt would corode the heck out of out aluminum aircraft
 

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