00W's AIO Smorgasbord

[kingranch2003]

 

[kingranch2003]

Just backed another card counter off the blackjack tables! That never gets old. These guys are pretty smart, it's always fun to outsmart them.

 

[ShakeyGizzard]

Looks good. I'd have considered raising the top of Baffle #3 another inch or 2 but that's probably unnecessary.

The tubing from the return pump to the bulkhead should be flexible tubing for easier removal. Most people use flexible tubing on all return pumps but just something to keep in mind if you hadn't considered it yet.

that's what I use, the silicone tubing from BRS

 

[ShakeyGizzard]

Looks good. I'd have considered raising the top of Baffle #3 another inch or 2 but that's probably unnecessary.

The tubing from the return pump to the bulkhead should be flexible tubing for easier removal. Most people use flexible tubing on all return pumps but just something to keep in mind if you hadn't considered it yet.

thanks for noticing, going up 2 inches

 

[ShakeyGizzard]

Looks good but

- if you have the skimmer, i would use it to double check the height of baffle 2. It may need to be little higher to allow the water level to be at the correct height on it while still leaving room for the heater beneath it.
- Baffle 3 should go at least 1/2" higher than Baffle 2 to force the water down through the bubble trap. As t is if the bubble trap starts to be restricted in any fashion the water will just cascade over Baffle 3 instead.
- Personally, I would move Baffles 2 and 3 two inches to the right. The size of the middle chamber will restrict your choice of heaters somewhat and the ginormous return chamber will have larger salinity swings between ATO fillings.
- With a Tunze skimmer I've never seen a need for a bubble trap. They are more a remnant of the old style skimmers that didn't have built it traps.

using the same heater I have in the crab tank now, plenty of room for it, I did think the return chamber was a tad to big.

 

[Rocks reef]

She’s getting wet!

 

[ShakeyGizzard]

@tharbin , @tbrown , question, if I bring the water level up to the bottom of the weir, this would reduce noise. I don't have any issues with this tank being noisy were this tank is located, but I don't see any improvement to function besides more water in the filter

 

[Calmwaters]

She’s getting wet!

So exciting!!!!

 

[tbrown]

@tharbin , @tbrown , question, if I bring the water level up to the bottom of the weir, this would reduce noise. I don't have any issues with this tank being noisy were this tank is located, but I don't see any improvement to function besides more water in the filter

Running the water through the media basket is going to reduce a lot noise, but yes, raising the second chamber to the bottom of the weir would reduce splashing into the first chamber for sure.

I'm assuming with the basket you're not going to be using filter socks or filter cups with PolyFil?

 

[tbrown]

If you decide that, another consideration is that, any media in the first chamber will cause restriction and raise the water level in the display. You're also likely going to have a minimum of a half inch of water above Baffle #2 to account for the flow. Too much restriction puts you at the top of your display and running over the overflow back into the rear chamber.

 

[ShakeyGizzard]

Running the water through the media basket is going to reduce a lot noise, but yes, raising the second chamber to the bottom of the weir would reduce splashing into the first chamber for sure.

I'm assuming with the basket you're not going to be using filter socks or filter cups with PolyFil?

the filter cart is going to be removeable, and designed for poly or floss, I did not want the water to level to be right at the bottom of the weir. making the weir adjustable like I did the baffle in my sump on the 40b

 

[ShakeyGizzard]

If you decide that, another consideration is that, any media in the first chamber will cause restriction and raise the water level in the display. You're also likely going to have a minimum of a half inch of water above Baffle #2 to account for the flow. Too much restriction puts you at the top of your display and running over the overflow back into the rear chamber.

figured it would throw things off, noise will be a non issue, going to copy this design for the removeable filter cart

 

[kingranch2003]

@tharbin , @tbrown , question, if I bring the water level up to the bottom of the weir, this would reduce noise. I don't have any issues with this tank being noisy were this tank is located, but I don't see any improvement to function besides more water in the filter

You may want to space the weird off the backwall a bit. If there's a height difference or a drop off between the water levels in the display and area behind the AIO you'll get a much better break in the surface, keeping that disgusting film off the top of the water.

I glued this on over my overflow holes to raise the water level in the display just a bit higher than the back.

https://www.fivestaraquatics.com/products/intank-all-in-one-aquarium-surface-skimmer

 

[Imrahilwjz]

Where are the sensors connected? If the 'In' is on your feed line it is very good. If the 'Out' is the final output it is too high. It should read zero. If it is the output of the membrane being fed to the di stage, it is good but you want to meter the final output as that is the best way to know when your di is depleted. If it is your output then if the di stage is brand new it may need to settle in for a gallon or so or your membrane may not be fully seated in its cartridge or worn out. If it is an old di, it is time to

Where are the sensors connected? If the 'In' is on your feed line it is very good. If the 'Out' is the final output it is too high. It should read zero. If it is the output of the membrane being fed to the di stage, it is good but you want to meter the final output as that is the best way to know when your di is depleted. If it is your output then if the di stage is brand new it may need to settle in for a gallon or so or your membrane may not be fully seated in its cartridge or worn out. If it is an old di, it is time to replace it.

All the cartridges are pretty old. It's an aquatic life that uses twist in cartridges. Time to order a new set

 

[Imrahilwjz]

@Imrahilwjz I'd add to this that if there's large bubbles in the DI chamber it may need to be repacked a little better. Sometimes it's as simple as resettling (or packing it a little better) the

Where are the sensors connected? If the 'In' is on your feed line it is very good. If the 'Out' is the final output it is too high. It should read zero. If it is the output of the membrane being fed to the di stage, it is good but you want to meter the final output as that is the best way to know when your di is depleted. If it is your output then if the di stage is brand new it may need to settle in for a gallon or so or your membrane may not be fully seated in its cartridge or worn out. If it is an old di, it is time to replace it.

The out is between DI and the storage tank

 

[Calmwaters]

All the cartridges are pretty old. It's an aquatic life that uses twist in cartridges. Time to order a new set

I have the Aquatic life and to replace the cartridges it cost almost as much as a new unit. Lol

 

[Imrahilwjz]

I have the Aquatic life and to replace the cartridges it cost almost as much as a new unit. Lol

Too true

 

[ShakeyGizzard]

You may want to space the weird off the backwall a bit. If there's a height difference or a drop off between the water levels in the display and area behind the AIO you'll get a much better break in the surface, keeping that disgusting film off the top of the water.

I glued this on over my overflow holes to raise the water level in the display just a bit higher than the back.

https://www.fivestaraquatics.com/products/intank-all-in-one-aquarium-surface-skimmer

I going to make my weir adjustable like my sump baffle, the tank is framed so i need to fine tune the tank level

 

[tbrown]

The out is between DI and the storage tank

Yeah, that sediment filter looks pretty nasty. I'd replace everything.

 

[ShakeyGizzard]

The out is between DI and the storage tank

I bit the bullet for the BRS 4 stage, its less than $200, but filter replacement is under $30