120G Rimless shallow peninsula tank

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Janci

Janci

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Finally the box with ordered parts arrived after a long 2 months waiting time.
I ordered end of February from Germany. Had to wait more than a month for the delivery of the GHL items and later close to 3 weeks till the shipment arrived and could be picked up.
That seems long and it is. Luckily the delivery of the tank was also delayed and after all, timing turned out not so bad.
I got the Red Dragon pump (8000L/h), 1 extra MP40, 2 extra GHL powerbars, a Fauna Marin bio pellet reactor and the PVC items for the return line and UV/chiller/reactor lines.
Dry fitting can start this weekend.
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In the meanwhile, with the powerbars arrived, I also have to start figuring out how to wire and set up properly the electrical part.
There will be 3 powerbars, controlled by the GHL Profilux which will give me a total of 18 sockets.
That seems a lot, but there are so many little items which need power, I doubt to add one more normal powerbar for router and other power needed appliances such as a light for the cabinet, wifi, router, reeflink, ...

UPDATE for installed equipment:
Following equipment will be installed:
- return pump Royal Exclusiv Red Dragon (80W) - 1 socket
- sump circulating pump Jeboa DCS-4000 - 1 socket (for chiller, UV, reactors,...)
- skimmer Royal Exclusiv BubbleKing Deluxe 200 RD3 Speedy pump- 1 socket
- chiller Teco TK-2000 - 1 socket
- lighting Ecotech Radions XR30WG4Pro - 4 sockets
- additional lighting GHL Mitras Lightbar 2 pieces - 1 socket
- Wavemakers Ecotech MP40QD 3 pieces - 3 sockets
- CaRx reactor Dastaco Xtrema1 - 1 socket
- controller GHL Profilux 3.1 - 1 socket
- Doser GHL Doser 2 (2 pieces) - 2 socket
- UV lamp Deltec 20W - 1 socket
- Power bars 3 pieces - 3 sockets
- Auto feeder Grasslin - 1 socket
- Auto top off Pacific Sun Sentry w/ solenoid valve - 1 socket
- lamp for stand, wifi, Reeflink,... (4 sockets)

Any ideas for proper wire management are welcome....
 
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Yesterday evening I started dry fitting the drain pipes and got caught in thinking on how to do the electrical part.
I took some measurements and cut some wood panels for fitting at the front of the tank.

Had to do some minor touches but they fit quiet good.

Although I very much like the complete open look from the stand, I realise that the space it provides needs to hold everything. I do not have a basement or other space to separate tank and power.
Water and electrical part needs to be separated so I decided to install 2 vertical panels.

One next to the sump and one in the middle of the open space in front of the sump. It gives me 2 areas to install more equipment.

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In the middle there is space for all the powerbars, sockets, power converters, spare cable and so on.
In front I put the CaRx reactor with CO2 and at the sides 2 more panels can/will be placed for the several controls for the pumps and GHL Profilux.

I am planning not to use, or to avoid screws.
Every panel needs to slide and fit by the use of wooden studs.
More details will follow later after fitting and adjusting the panels.
 
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I realized that the cabinet was going to take more time than just a couple of hours so I first did the plumbing.
It is quiet a tight space and the 1 1/2 inch pipes did not make it any easier.
The result as in the pictures below. Not my best, but it will have to do for now.
Letting it dry one night and tomorrow we do a testrun and leak test.
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While the plumbing is drying I continued with the cabinet.
This is just the fitting. Nothing is fixed with wood plugs so far.
Yet, it is sturdy and needs just a couple of tweaks more to get it levelled.
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Wow...great looking system. Nice work.
 
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In the last 2 days I was busy finalising the plumbing and see if I could do a leak test. It took till Saturday morning to get all the pipes done.
All plumbing was drying during 1 night and the next day I took a hose from the agrden and trhew it in the display tank.
Half an hour later the tank was full and main pump was started.
The water temparature was about 45 degrees. Summer is getting started in UAE and I am glad that some weeks ago I found a second hand Teco chiller with a capacity till 2000L. Fish and coral will be thankful later.

It took me a while to figure out the working of the overflow, siphon and valve but got it sorted out in the end.

The overflow is not very quiet. The box inside the tank makes most of the noise due to water falling inside the box for about 5cm. I expected to have it less noisy and will look into it.
I might bring the bends in the outside overflow box a little higher to raise the overall water level of the overflow box.
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Here is a short video of the leak test and overflow noise.
I did not expect the overflow to be that loud and might do some changes:
- adjust the height of the bean animal bends in the external overflow box to raise the water level in the overflow and reduce the "waterfall" noise.
- install some filterpads in the internal overflow box, but I am afraid the flow to the external overflow box could be restricted and clog
- lower the return pump flow.​
I had the return pump on 50W (80W max) and this created a nice water surface movement in the display tank. The flow in the sump was quiet high (too high).
As soon as the tank is filled with salt water, I will be doing some more test with lower pump rate.

 

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This looks awesome mate! You've done a great job and made good progress so far.
Love all your equipment to, I'd love to get my hands on one of those Dastaco calcium reactors. Keen to see how you go with it!
 

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