15 Alk too high?

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What device? Many refractometers are not appropriately calibrated with pure fresh water, despite claims to the contrary, since they are not actually made for seawater.
It is a AutoOutlet Salinity Refractometer. Btw do I need to put Prime water conditioner or no because its RODI water? Thanks
 

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It is a AutoOutlet Salinity Refractometer. Btw do I need to put Prime water conditioner or no because its RODI water? Thanks

No need for Prime.

That refractometer will be off by a bit even if it is perfectly made, if you perfectly calibrate with RO/DI and use it to measure seawater. If anything is imperfect, it may be way off.

Make or buy a 35 ppt seawater standard to calibrate it. :)

Do you have a kitchen scale?
 
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No need for Prime.

That refractometer will be off by a bit even if it is perfectly made, if you perfectly calibrate with RO/DI and use it to measure seawater. If anything is imperfect, it may be way off.

Make or buy a 35 ppt seawater standard to calibrate it. :)

Do you have a kitchen scale?
Ok and yes
 

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Ok and yes

Here's a recipe for a standard (for refractometers only):


Do-it-yourself Refractometer Standards

In a previous article I described how to make a do-it-yourself refractometer standard matching 35 ppt seawater, and I will just summarize that recipe here.

To provide a standard for refractometers requires a solution whose refractive index is similar to normal seawater. Seawater with a salinity of 35 ppt has a refractive index of 1.3394. Likewise, the refractive index of different sodium chloride solutions can be found in the scientific literature. My CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics (57th Edition, Page D-252) has such a table. That table has entries for 3.6 and 3.7 weight percent solutions of sodium chloride that span the value for normal seawater. Interpolating between these data points suggests that a solution of 3.65 weight percent sodium chloride has the same refractive index as 35 ppt seawater, and therefore can be used as an appropriate standard (Table 5).

This 3.65 weight percent sodium chloride solution can be made by dissolving 3.65 grams of sodium chloride in 96.35 grams (mL) of purified freshwater. This recipe can be scaled to any appropriate size if suitable instruments are available (36.5 grams in 963.5 grams (mL) of water, 0.365 grams in 9.635 g (mL) of water, etc.).

This concentration roughly corresponds to ¼ cup (73.1 g) of Morton’s Iodized Salt dissolved into two liters (2000 g) of water (giving very slightly more than 2 L of total volume).
 
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Here's a recipe for a standard (for refractometers only):


Do-it-yourself Refractometer Standards

In a previous article I described how to make a do-it-yourself refractometer standard matching 35 ppt seawater, and I will just summarize that recipe here.

To provide a standard for refractometers requires a solution whose refractive index is similar to normal seawater. Seawater with a salinity of 35 ppt has a refractive index of 1.3394. Likewise, the refractive index of different sodium chloride solutions can be found in the scientific literature. My CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics (57th Edition, Page D-252) has such a table. That table has entries for 3.6 and 3.7 weight percent solutions of sodium chloride that span the value for normal seawater. Interpolating between these data points suggests that a solution of 3.65 weight percent sodium chloride has the same refractive index as 35 ppt seawater, and therefore can be used as an appropriate standard (Table 5).

This 3.65 weight percent sodium chloride solution can be made by dissolving 3.65 grams of sodium chloride in 96.35 grams (mL) of purified freshwater. This recipe can be scaled to any appropriate size if suitable instruments are available (36.5 grams in 963.5 grams (mL) of water, 0.365 grams in 9.635 g (mL) of water, etc.).

This concentration roughly corresponds to ¼ cup (73.1 g) of Morton’s Iodized Salt dissolved into two liters (2000 g) of water (giving very slightly more than 2 L of total volume).
Ok ill make that thanks.
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley said:
Here's a recipe for a standard (for refractometers only):

www.reefedition.com

Refractometers and Salinity Measurement - REEFEDITION

Title photo by R2R member Rskillz By Randy Holmes-Farley Salinity is one of the most important parameters measured in reef aquaria. It controls not only the salt balance between an organism and its surrounding environment, but also the levels of a host of ions Read more here...
www.reefedition.com
Do-it-yourself Refractometer Standards

In a previous article I described how to make a do-it-yourself refractometer standard matching 35 ppt seawater, and I will just summarize that recipe here.

To provide a standard for refractometers requires a solution whose refractive index is similar to normal seawater. Seawater with a salinity of 35 ppt has a refractive index of 1.3394. Likewise, the refractive index of different sodium chloride solutions can be found in the scientific literature. My CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics (57th Edition, Page D-252) has such a table. That table has entries for 3.6 and 3.7 weight percent solutions of sodium chloride that span the value for normal seawater. Interpolating between these data points suggests that a solution of 3.65 weight percent sodium chloride has the same refractive index as 35 ppt seawater, and therefore can be used as an appropriate standard (Table 5).

This 3.65 weight percent sodium chloride solution can be made by dissolving 3.65 grams of sodium chloride in 96.35 grams (mL) of purified freshwater. This recipe can be scaled to any appropriate size if suitable instruments are available (36.5 grams in 963.5 grams (mL) of water, 0.365 grams in 9.635 g (mL) of water, etc.).

This concentration roughly corresponds to ¼ cup (73.1 g) of Morton’s Iodized Salt dissolved into two liters (2000 g) of water (giving very slightly more than 2 L of total volume).
And I should use 2000g of purified water right?
 
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2.5 cups for 5gallons roughly
Yeah but what im saying is that I cant fill up the bucket all the way so its always different amounts. Idk if that small amount matters but for the tank I can know exactly how many gallons went into it.
 

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Just trying to chime in again did you figure out what was going on with the high alk ? I had some similar issues in the past with bad salt and or needed to mix the bag of salt itself. If you don’t have any live animals I would suggest getting new salt and just do large water change to get levels balanced. And start over I would also suggest dr Tim’s one and only to get the tank started, not anything else. Once you have it cycle for two weeks I would say to drop a few fish in and start with softy corals get your alk mag and cal in balance checking alk every day until you see it balance and check nitrates and phosphate once nothing is swinging you can add more stuff into tank slowly I know it’s crazy hard to resist the urge to buy nice coral but ultimately they will die if all these parameters are not stable you can have higher alk mag cal and nitrates, phosphate they key is to keep them locked so they don’t swing. But I would recommend alk to be between 7-9 and if your number falls on 8.0 keep it close as possible with little deviation this and phosphate swing will be the hardest on your corals anything more then .75 swing during the day with alk is stress anything more then 0.05 swing on phosphate during the day is stress if you swing more then 1.0 alk or 0.075 phosphate your tank will decline fast. I recommend Hanna checked for these and test daily and at the same time of the day. PH will also play a large role with alk and higher ph the faster alk will be depleted there are many variables with this hobby just go slow and start with softy they can handle swing allot better and survive mistakes with newer hobbies mistakes. Fish can handle allot of abuse too just keep in mind you need to put them in slowly if you want coral because they will cause you to keep a closer eye on nitrates and phosphates. More you feed higher phosphates and in the first year nitrates generally go up much faster with more fish in the tank..
 

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Dr Tim’s one and only bacteria is what I would recommend.
When you mix the salt in the tank do it with 1cup at a time every five minutes until you reach the correct salinity temp swings in the mixing process will give you lots of issues and poring more then a cup of salt at a time will also give you lots of issues
 
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Just trying to chime in again did you figure out what was going on with the high alk ? I had some similar issues in the past with bad salt and or needed to mix the bag of salt itself. If you don’t have any live animals I would suggest getting new salt and just do large water change to get levels balanced. And start over I would also suggest dr Tim’s one and only to get the tank started, not anything else. Once you have it cycle for two weeks I would say to drop a few fish in and start with softy corals get your alk mag and cal in balance checking alk every day until you see it balance and check nitrates and phosphate once nothing is swinging you can add more stuff into tank slowly I know it’s crazy hard to resist the urge to buy nice coral but ultimately they will die if all these parameters are not stable you can have higher alk mag cal and nitrates, phosphate they key is to keep them locked so they don’t swing. But I would recommend alk to be between 7-9 and if your number falls on 8.0 keep it close as possible with little deviation this and phosphate swing will be the hardest on your corals anything more then .75 swing during the day with alk is stress anything more then 0.05 swing on phosphate during the day is stress if you swing more then 1.0 alk or 0.075 phosphate your tank will decline fast. I recommend Hanna checked for these and test daily and at the same time of the day. PH will also play a large role with alk and higher ph the faster alk will be depleted there are many variables with this hobby just go slow and start with softy they can handle swing allot better and survive mistakes with newer hobbies mistakes. Fish can handle allot of abuse too just keep in mind you need to put them in slowly if you want coral because they will cause you to keep a closer eye on nitrates and phosphates. More you feed higher phosphates and in the first year nitrates generally go up much faster with more fish in the tank..
Thanks for all the info. We came to the conclusion that the tap water was the problem so I bought a RODI unit and am filling up the tank. Will buy Dr tims. Any ammonia to add? Thanks
 

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Thanks for all the info. We came to the conclusion that the tap water was the problem so I bought a RODI unit and am filling up the tank. Will buy Dr tims. Any ammonia to add? Thanks
You sure your not having Precipitation issues ?
 

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You sure your not having Precipitation issues ?
I would tell you mix the salt slow and don’t keep pumps in a bucket while doing that the temps will cause precipitation and if you dump more salt at a time in it will cause the same thing
 

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Thanks for all the info. We came to the conclusion that the tap water was the problem so I bought a RODI unit and am filling up the tank. Will buy Dr tims. Any ammonia to add? Thanks
Ammonia is super tricky man if you go down that path only put like 1/4 the recommended amount
 

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