29G Observation tank

[MD84]

I'm putting together a tank designed to be an observation tank for new fish. I've tried the TTM method and I felt like it was a stressful environment. I would like to set up a permanent running tank with sand and live rock for placing new fish before introducing to my display tank.

My thought was to place new fish in this tank and observe them for 45 days. If I see no illness I would place in display tank. If I notice something that requires treatment, I would remove and place in a bare treatment tank.

I'm still going through the thought process and validation of concept. Any input would be appreciated.

I'm also deciding on equipment. Other than LR and sand, I'm deciding what type of filtration I might need. Is a HOB filter like an aquaclear a good idea? Any recommendations on equipment setup?

Thanks,
Mason

 

[Redfoxtang]

Sounds like a good plan. Simple setup is HOB filter maybe a cheap light if you desire. I do not run lights on my QTs. Heaters are a must and some small power heads for O2 exchange.

 

[MD84]

Sounds like a good plan. Simple setup is HOB filter maybe a cheap light if you desire. I do not run lights on my QTs. Heaters are a must and some small power heads for O2 exchange.

Thank you. I think I will go with an aquaclear 50 HOB and some par38 lights. A heater and some power heads.

Since I'm running this permanently I'm questioning how I will keep my biological filtration thriving. I'm thinking either ghost feeding or keeping a pair of clowns.

 

[saltyhog]

I have a 29 gallon tank that I call my "observation tank". I use it a little differently than you plan to use yours. I transfer fish to it after completing prophylactic treatment (copper, CP, TTM depending on the species). I do treat for worms/flukes in many fish in this tank. My goal with it is observation to make sure the fish is completely disease free and to fatten them up and get them used to associating me with good things (food).

One problem you need to consider is if there is a disease noted that requires treatment you will either have to let the tank remain fallow for a long time period (if it's ich/velvet) or treat it appropriately if it's flukes, etc.

I would highly recommend not using sand. There really is no advantage to doing so and it only adds to maintenance. If you are observing a sand sleeping fish just add a bowl of clean sand for the duration of his stay.

I would oversize the HOB filter (I use a 110 Aquaclear on mine) and use Biomax or a similar ceramic media in it. I have found my biological filter to be very stable by doing that. I rarely ghost feed and have gone a few months between fish and had zero problems with the biofilter. Keeping a pair of clowns is not a good idea as they will become very territorial and harass new additions.....exactly the opposite environment you are wanting to achieve.

 

[Redfoxtang]

Thank you. I think I will go with an aquaclear 50 HOB and some par38 lights. A heater and some power heads.

Since I'm running this permanently I'm questioning how I will keep my biological filtration thriving. I'm thinking either ghost feeding or keeping a pair of clowns.

If I don’t have fish in the QT or I know I won’t for some time I usually just use a small amount of ammonia chloride. Never had any issues doing this as it feeds bacteria. Plus I bought a massive bottle I’ll never use.

 

[MD84]

I have a 29 gallon tank that I call my "observation tank". I use it a little differently than you plan to use yours. I transfer fish to it after completing prophylactic treatment (copper, CP, TTM depending on the species). I do treat for worms/flukes in many fish in this tank. My goal with it is observation to make sure the fish is completely disease free and to fatten them up and get them used to associating me with good things (food).

One problem you need to consider is if there is a disease noted that requires treatment you will either have to let the tank remain fallow for a long time period (if it's ich/velvet) or treat it appropriately if it's flukes, etc.

I would highly recommend not using sand. There really is no advantage to doing so and it only adds to maintenance. If you are observing a sand sleeping fish just add a bowl of clean sand for the duration of his stay.

Thank you. The Ich/velvet and other possibilities were one of my concerns. I was concerned what vulnerabilities I would have shown kd certain illnesses present. Thank you for clarifying that. I see how your method has some merits.

Would Ich/velvet be the main two that would compromise the tank should I not treat prophylactic?

I tried to TTM a watchman goby and used a bowl of sand. He wouldn't go into it, wouldn't eat, and generally looked stressed. I ended up rolling the dice and introducing him to my DT. He is so happy now and eating well. For that reason I considered a full sand bed.

Perhaps I could silicone in an acrylic divider, maybe 1.5" high, placed at 1/4 the length of the tank at the bottom. This could be for a dedicated sand bed that could easily be replaced.

You've given me some points to consider. Thank you

 

[MD84]

If I don’t have fish in the QT or I know I won’t for some time I usually just use a small amount of ammonia chloride. Never had any issues doing this as it feeds bacteria. Plus I bought a massive bottle I’ll never use.

Do you use a drop every day or two when there are no fish? Or otherwise any recommendations on dosing? Thanks

 

[Redfoxtang]

Do you use a drop every day or two when there are no fish? Or otherwise any recommendations on dosing? Thanks

Yes just a teaspoon. Mine is dry and not liquid. I also treat prophylactic as @saltyhog does. I treat every fish as if they have Ich/velvet, flukes, etc. If something comes up while in QT I have the meds to treat. My standard treatment is Copper, Prazipro, GC+Focus feed foods.

 

[saltyhog]

Thank you. The Ich/velvet and other possibilities were one of my concerns. I was concerned what vulnerabilities I would have shown kd certain illnesses present. Thank you for clarifying that. I see how your method has some merits.

Would Ich/velvet be the main two that would compromise the tank should I not treat prophylactic?

I tried to TTM a watchman goby and used a bowl of sand. He wouldn't go into it, wouldn't eat, and generally looked stressed. I ended up rolling the dice and introducing him to my DT. He is so happy now and eating well. For that reason I considered a full sand bed.

Perhaps I could silicone in an acrylic divider, maybe 1.5" high, placed at 1/4 the length of the tank at the bottom. This could be for a dedicated sand bed that could easily be replaced.

You've given me some points to consider. Thank you

I can see why you considered sand based on your experience. Watchman/shrimp gobies are one of the most perplexing fish to QT for me as well. I've struggled with them for the very reason you mention.

Really there aren't any fish other than sand sleeping wrasses that require a sand bed for QT...and they adapt readily to the bowl of sand. (don't reuse the sand without rinsing and thoroughly drying it).

If you observe a fish with ich or velvet you will have to leave the tank without fish in it for 76 days (ich) or about 5 weeks for velvet. Since it might be difficult to see ich among velvet (fish could have both at the same time) I would just do 76 days if either disease is seen. Flukes and intestinal worms are easy to treat in the tank with General Cure so they wouldn't be a big problem.

One thing to consider is ich can be almost undetectable for weeks in many species of fish....especially those with thick mucous coats such as wrasses. I would observe at least 6 weeks if that is the only method of keeping ich out of the DT.

 

[saltyhog]

If I don’t have fish in the QT or I know I won’t for some time I usually just use a small amount of ammonia chloride. Never had any issues doing this as it feeds bacteria. Plus I bought a massive bottle I’ll never use.

I used to do this (I used Dr. Tim's ammonia liquid which is cheap and a single bottle will last longer than I will probably live ) As I only use it for one or two fish at a time and grossly oversize the filtration I haven't felt the need the last couple of years.