3D Printing thread
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domination2580
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Where would u go to get the software to create designs on computer?
MaccaPopEye
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I use Fusion 360. It's very advanced but still surprisingly beginner friendly and has a few great tutorials on YouTube.
It's also free for hobbyists (I think now you have to select that you are a start up company, but not making any money which makes it free).
Hi
My girlfriend's sister recently got a wanhao duplicator 7 plus. At the same time my gyre 3k bushing broke. I would get a replacement, but I'm somewhere where imports are hard to find. I found the design for this bushing
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2531728
What I wanted to know is, would a bushing printed with photosensitive resin from either wanhao or monocure be reef safe? Does anyone know for certain?
Thanks!
My girlfriend's sister recently got a wanhao duplicator 7 plus. At the same time my gyre 3k bushing broke. I would get a replacement, but I'm somewhere where imports are hard to find. I found the design for this bushing
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2531728
What I wanted to know is, would a bushing printed with photosensitive resin from either wanhao or monocure be reef safe? Does anyone know for certain?
Thanks!
Unfortunately from what we have seen - most SLA printers resins are not reef safe. They don't hold up well to the UV light generated by most reef-capable lights and the compounds in many of the resins are not reef safe.
We had a a few SLA prints created of your RFG nozzle,s and they look cool, but didn't hold up to just the saltwater we used them in our demo tanks. they eventually got brittle.
Using it to create a create a mold is a great idea. There was a vendor at MACNA this year that had a line of plastic products for molding. Try checking out Smnooht-on Inc.
https://www.smooth-on.com/
https://www.smooth-on.com/
Rick Cavanaugh
Active Member
10x 12 is a VERY big plate. If you can go slightly smaller I highly recommend an Original Prusa MK3. Much better than the clones.
https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/
https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/
Rick Cavanaugh
Active Member
One thing that is important to know for your first purchase is that most printers are Prusa i3 clones. So basically most are very similar in how they work. Prusa has made his designs open source.
Some clones are not very plug and play friendly and will require significant tweeking to get them to work, however, they can do a good print if you take the time to set it up properly and get it calibrated.. Look up 3D printer calibration. Most of this is going to be done in the slicing software, but most I3 clones run off of some sort of arduino processor and you might need to get into the code to get the thing calibrated.
The advantage of the Original Prusa MK3 is that it works incredibly well out of the box and has all of the calibration done for you in Prusa Slic3r software. The MK3 is the latest version that has many advantages as it can recover from power outages, crashes, E3d Print head, auto bed calibration and much more. There is also a multi color kit that will allow you to print with 5 different filaments at the same time including dissolving support filaments. The cost of the Prusa MK3 is a bit more than the Chinese i3 knock offs and it will be in the $800 range.
I have a Geetech I3 and the original Prusa MK3. There is no comparison. The MK3 is by far a better printer and I feel worth every penny.
As was mentioned bigger prints take very long to print. An 8x10x 2 inch tall print may take 14-18 hours, you can also design stuff so that it glues or bolts together. Check out Inmoov.fr. It is a 3d printable life-size robot that can print on a very small printer. Larger printers are not really needed for most things.
I would suggest finding someone close to you to actually see how they work and see some of the prints
Some clones are not very plug and play friendly and will require significant tweeking to get them to work, however, they can do a good print if you take the time to set it up properly and get it calibrated.. Look up 3D printer calibration. Most of this is going to be done in the slicing software, but most I3 clones run off of some sort of arduino processor and you might need to get into the code to get the thing calibrated.
The advantage of the Original Prusa MK3 is that it works incredibly well out of the box and has all of the calibration done for you in Prusa Slic3r software. The MK3 is the latest version that has many advantages as it can recover from power outages, crashes, E3d Print head, auto bed calibration and much more. There is also a multi color kit that will allow you to print with 5 different filaments at the same time including dissolving support filaments. The cost of the Prusa MK3 is a bit more than the Chinese i3 knock offs and it will be in the $800 range.
I have a Geetech I3 and the original Prusa MK3. There is no comparison. The MK3 is by far a better printer and I feel worth every penny.
As was mentioned bigger prints take very long to print. An 8x10x 2 inch tall print may take 14-18 hours, you can also design stuff so that it glues or bolts together. Check out Inmoov.fr. It is a 3d printable life-size robot that can print on a very small printer. Larger printers are not really needed for most things.
I would suggest finding someone close to you to actually see how they work and see some of the prints
I looked at the reviews, the BAR is set at the MK3 . I was looking at the kit thinking about letting my son build it, whats your thoughts on that, calibration is sounding like a bit of a challenge
Rick Cavanaugh
Active Member
It is VERY worthwhile to build the MK3 yourself. If you assemble it you know how to take it apart to do upgrades and repairs.
3d printers have moving parts that can get jammed and can break. Being able to disassemble and replace parts in the print head is a very good skill to have. I keep extra thermositors, heaters and heat breaks in case I have an issue. Prusa is very good at shipping parts. Takes 3-4 days to get most things if they are in stock for $18-20 delivery fee.
Once assembled it goes through a self-check and if it passes, it is good to go and will make excellent prints. I just installed the multi-color unit, I am not sure if it is really worth it unless you do many prints that require supports. A lot more moving parts and for a first printer, I would avoid that and keep it simple until you are very comfortable with the process.
3d printers have moving parts that can get jammed and can break. Being able to disassemble and replace parts in the print head is a very good skill to have. I keep extra thermositors, heaters and heat breaks in case I have an issue. Prusa is very good at shipping parts. Takes 3-4 days to get most things if they are in stock for $18-20 delivery fee.
Once assembled it goes through a self-check and if it passes, it is good to go and will make excellent prints. I just installed the multi-color unit, I am not sure if it is really worth it unless you do many prints that require supports. A lot more moving parts and for a first printer, I would avoid that and keep it simple until you are very comfortable with the process.
Rick Cavanaugh
Active Member
The textured are only on a limited availability, I have not been able to buy one. If you can get one, order it and get a spare smooth. The textured is a powdered coated pei flexible print bed and will give a rough texture to the bottom. The smooth is a decal sheet and gives a smooth bottom. Both are double sided allowing you to use both sides. When the smooth wears out, I would suggest buying a new one over trying to replace the PEI sheet. It is a REAL pain to remove it, clean it and reapply. I did it once, never again.
found this ...Dual extruder and laser ...any thoughts
https://www.amazon.com/BIBO-Extrude...qid=1540379742&sr=1-5&keywords=3d+print+laser
https://www.amazon.com/BIBO-Extrude...qid=1540379742&sr=1-5&keywords=3d+print+laser
MaccaPopEye
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If this is your first printer then I would definitely recommend a kit, putting it together yourself will be invaluable when / if something goes wrong. I'd also recommend an i3 style printer as they are very common so there is a lot of people who can help if you have any issues and they are also very easy to work on compared to other styles of printer.
Which kit depends on your price range.
It's hard to go past the Creality Ender 3 or the Geeetech A10 for entry level kits. They are both very affordable (around the $200 mark), have a decent build volume, can print PLA, PETG, ABS etc. and have both been getting pretty dang good reviews for both their ease of assembly, use and print quality.
I would stay away from the acrylic frame i3 style printers, while they can be fun and decent, you can get much better printers for $200 now so there is no point.
If you don't really have a budget and just want something you know will work then it is hard to go past the Prusa MK3 kit, they are renowned for their build quality, features and customer service. But you definitely pay a premium for it.
If you want a massive build volume I would also consider the Creality CR-10 range as I think they have printers with a build volume up to 500mm cubed.
IMO for your first printer don't worry about different heads or "must have" add-ons. Decide what build volume you want and what your budget is then pick a kit that has decent reviews. Build it, get to know it's quirks and how well it prints etc. and then look into different heads and add-ons.
My TLDR picks:
- For a budget around the $200 mark = the Geeetech A10 or the Creality Ender 3.
- For a budget around the $500 mark = the Geeetech A30 or the Creality CR-10.
- For a budget over $500 the Prusa Mk3
Does anyone seen a what I would call a cradle for a Ecotech MP10,40,60 I use a mag flow now to keep the dry side in place after cleaning. As it can take a while for the unit to mesh with the wet side after cleaning.
I place a mag float unde the wet side and dry side to keep it in place for a day after cleaning. I would thing some one could come up with a more aesthetic look 3D printing cradle that would do the job.
I place a mag float unde the wet side and dry side to keep it in place for a day after cleaning. I would thing some one could come up with a more aesthetic look 3D printing cradle that would do the job.
Does anyone seen a what I would call a cradle for a Ecotech MP10,40,60 I use a mag flow now to keep the dry side in place after cleaning. As it can take a while for the unit to mesh with the wet side after cleaning.
I place a mag float unde the wet side and dry side to keep it in place for a day after cleaning. I would thing some one could come up with a more aesthetic look 3D printing cradle that would do the job.
Not sure exactly what you mean. Supporting the wet side would need something complicated, because you can’t really use magnets that close to it when it is running. They vibrate. How else can you mount the internal support- suction cups? For the outside, a permanent “support” attaches to the tank with 3m Tape sounds feasible
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