3D Printing thread

[reefwiser]

Right now I just use a Mag float glass cleaner to support the bottom the the powerhead on the inside and outside of the tank. At the bottom. It doesn't interfere with the magnet at all just keeps it from sliding off the glass when the powerhead is running .

 

[siggy]

Is your glass a little too thick for the magnet? I have a mp40 and it locks up on the 75g....If the pump is off

 

[mipstien]

Right now I just use a Mag float glass cleaner to support the bottom the the powerhead on the inside and outside of the tank. At the bottom. It doesn't interfere with the magnet at all just keeps it from sliding off the glass when the powerhead is running .

Would a base with a suction cup work? i have a critter guard that i could adjust to have a nub to allow for a suction cup attachment.
Would this serve your purpose?
I made this for my mp40qd.

 

[siggy]

Update! well my son and I scaled back to a small and cheap printer for our first go round. We went with Geeetech A10 it was $170 at Wallmart web site and offerd a 3 year warranty for $20 so I just did it. In a year or so we (he) will know more to make a better decision. BTW with that warranty it will be around for a few years. I looked real hard at the Prusa , the printed parts and display really turned me off for that price.

 

[siggy]

Update! well my son and I scaled back to a small and cheap printer for our first go round. We went with Geeetech A10 it was $170 at Wallmart web site and offerd a 3 year warranty for $20 so I just did it. In a year or so we (he) will know more to make a better decision. BTW with that warranty it will be around for a few years. I looked real hard at the Prusa , the printed parts and display really turned me off for that price.

Update the Update, It seems Wally World is reluctant to sell 3D printers, I received a Email that the order was canceled so Im shopping again

Any thoughts About the A10 or the Ender 3......ot tevo ?

 

[dantimdad]

I am getting the Ender 3. A ton of good reviews out there. The bad reviews seem to be people who didn't take time setting it up.

 

[MaccaPopEye]

Update the Update, It seems Wally World is reluctant to sell 3D printers, I received a Email that the order was canceled so Im shopping again

Any thoughts About the A10 or the Ender 3......ot tevo ?

I'd have a look for it somewhere else, Amazon probably has them. There is a few A10 vs Ender 3 reviews out there and the a10 always seems to come in ontop.

 

[reefwiser]

Would a base with a suction cup work? i have a critter guard that i could adjust to have a nub to allow for a suction cup attachment.
Would this serve your purpose?
I made this for my mp40qd.

I was just thinking of like a C shaped piece with magnets to hold the two pieces in place. The Vorech can be a bear to stay in place after you clean them. An I generally do it once a month.

 

[mipstien]

That is 2 pieces. The base can hold the wet side without the screen on it.

 

[garbled]

A few quick things I've made for my project. These are power brick holders for a few different bricks. Keeps them neat and off the floor/etc.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207044

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207041

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207037

Nothing special, but nice to have if you happen to have these models.

 

[dantimdad]

Nice job!

Thanks for posting to thingiverse.

 

[TheEngineer]

Not sure how I missed this thread!

I printed a mount for my Cobalt backup air supply.

 

[garbled]

Oops, forgot to mention, the three brick holders are for (top to bottom) a Neptune COR20, Reef Octopus Varios 4s, and Tunze 6255 brick.

 

[b4tn]

So I’m thinking that a 3D printer is going to end up under my tree this year. I have heard from several that I would be well suited with the either the creality ender 3 or the Geeetech A10. I think so far I have decided on the A10. What’s the recommended software? Is there any open source software or do I need to buy something? What filement do you all have the best luck with like the size and material? It would be nice to get something like ABS that is reef safe but also works well for things like boxes and brackets or whatever else I’m printing. Anything else I should consider?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F3YTT6W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_TI17BbVBANZFF

 

[garbled]

I have an anycubic i3 mega. I love it. I prefer 3d solutech, or eSun PLA+ filament. For most printers you can run Cura for slicing, which is totally free.

If you want to do ABS, do a *ton* of research on which printers do ABS well. ABS is super fiddly. PETG is easy, but ABS is fiddly and you often need a full enclosure to print. (This can be DIY, but beware, powersupplies mounted under the bed might overheat!)

 

[dantimdad]

I have changed my mind and am going with the a10. Everything I have seen and read says that it does ABS and PLA equally well.

I am going to (finally!) learn modeling from a guy at work. He said Cura is good for slicing as well.

I can't wait!

 

[MaccaPopEye]

So I’m thinking that a 3D printer is going to end up under my tree this year. I have heard from several that I would be well suited with the either the creality ender 3 or the Geeetech A10. I think so far I have decided on the A10. What’s the recommended software? Is there any open source software or do I need to buy something? What filement do you all have the best luck with like the size and material? It would be nice to get something like ABS that is reef safe but also works well for things like boxes and brackets or whatever else I’m printing. Anything else I should consider?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F3YTT6W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_TI17BbVBANZFF

You don't need to buy any software unless you want to but I find the free ones are more than sufficient. I use:
- Printer firmware - Marlin (open source/free). I am pretty sure both of those options come with Marlin already installed but check to ensure they have thermal runaway protection feature turned on.
- Slicing - Cura (free). Has heaps of features (and they keep adding more). It works so well I haven't had any reason to even consider buying a slicing software.
- CAD - Fusion 360 (free for hobbyists / start ups). Hands down one of the best CAD programs you can get and it's free! I've tried a few but it is well worth learning how to use fusion from the start if you can. SketchUp and TinkerCAD are also free, will work and are easy to use initially, but fusion has so many great features. Lars Christensen does some awesome tutorials for beginners to F360, it is well worth your time to invest a couple of hours into his videos before you start.

As for filament, PLA, PETG & ABS are the most common and both the printers you are looking at can print any of them in a 1.75mm filament.

Different brands and even colours of the same brand have different properties (mostly the nozzle temp required to get a great print) but generally I have found that after a small test print or two it doesn't matter much if I use cheap stuff or expensive stuff, so far it has all printed well with the right slicer settings (just playing with trial and error).

PLA - Easy as to print. If it is reef safe or not is debatable. Some people say they have had it break down in their tanks, others have had no issues over multiple years. I'm currently trying it out with a few things to see for myself if I can get it to break down in my tank, so far no signs of degrading after about 6 months. Even if it does break down some have argued it is a similar material to bio pellets anyway and would just act as a carbon source (but there is no proof if it is harmful or not if it does break down).

PETG - A bit harder to print but should be easy enough with the printers you are looking at. Without an enclosure large flat prints can still warp though. Shouldn't degrade at all in a reef and is reef safe as far as I know.

ABS - Hard to print without an enclosure. Needs a really warm and temp stable environment to print well and can give off some fumes that are probably toxic. Enclosures to keep the temp stable can be cheap and simple or hard and complicated depending on what you want it to do. But it is also reef safe as far as I know.

 

[dantimdad]

You don't need to buy any software unless you want to but I find the free ones are more than sufficient. I use:
- Printer firmware - Marlin (open source/free). I am pretty sure both of those options come with Marlin already installed but check to ensure they have thermal runaway protection feature turned on.
- Slicing - Cura (free). Has heaps of features (and they keep adding more). It works so well I haven't had any reason to even consider buying a slicing software.
- CAD - Fusion 360 (free for hobbyists / start ups). Hands down one of the best CAD programs you can get and it's free! I've tried a few but it is well worth learning how to use fusion from the start if you can. SketchUp and TinkerCAD are also free, will work and are easy to use initially, but fusion has so many great features. Lars Christensen does some awesome tutorials for beginners to F360, it is well worth your time to invest a couple of hours into his videos before you start.

As for filament, PLA, PETG & ABS are the most common and both the printers you are looking at can print any of them in a 1.75mm filament.

Different brands and even colours of the same brand have different properties (mostly the nozzle temp required to get a great print) but generally I have found that after a small test print or two it doesn't matter much if I use cheap stuff or expensive stuff, so far it has all printed well with the right slicer settings (just playing with trial and error).

PLA - Easy as to print. If it is reef safe or not is debatable. Some people say they have had it break down in their tanks, others have had no issues over multiple years. I'm currently trying it out with a few things to see for myself if I can get it to break down in my tank, so far no signs of degrading after about 6 months. Even if it does break down some have argued it is a similar material to bio pellets anyway and would just act as a carbon source (but there is no proof if it is harmful or not if it does break down).

PETG - A bit harder to print but should be easy enough with the printers you are looking at. Without an enclosure large flat prints can still warp though. Shouldn't degrade at all in a reef and is reef safe as far as I know.

ABS - Hard to print without an enclosure. Needs a really warm and temp stable environment to print well and can give off some fumes that are probably toxic. Enclosures to keep the temp stable can be cheap and simple or hard and complicated depending on what you want it to do. But it is also reef safe as far as I know.

Thanks for the detailed explaination!

I needed that.

 

[MaccaPopEye]

Thanks for the detailed explaination!

I needed that.

No worries. Any other questions shoot away

 

[garbled]

Everything I have heard suggests that PETG is the only one that is food safe, and therefore likely reef safe. I've read articles about ABS releasing toxins. I suspect PLA is just fine, but it's made from corn something or other, so I think the theory is that it will slowly dissolve? I saw a video where someone left some prints outside in the sun for a year or so and they basically kind of became brittle and UV damaged.

When I got into printing, I was sure I was going to print all the things in ABS. In reality, I haven't found a need to actually even try ABS yet. I *really* recommend PETG for things where you thought you wanted ABS. I've made PETG test parts, and then left them outside in Arizona sun on a black steel surface and they haven't warped at all.

Also, just a small pitch here, but watch a bunch of videos about "removing your part from the build plate". I have an AnyCubic, with an Ultrabase. The difference here is that, I don't put any goo or glue or magic plates on my bed, I just gently lift the parts off it like magic. I sometimes watch these videos and am very thankful that I picked the ultrabase.