3D Printing thread

[TheEngineer]

I did the calibration of the extruder. It was off by several mm. I also did the print calibration to make sure the lines were coming down at the right thickness, and they are good.

Parts are still not sticking to the bed. I thought maybe the parts were just too small, but even some large parts are coming off too. I tried this morning bumping the bed temp up to 70 for the first layer with the speed at 5mm/s. It printed quite a few layers, but eventually popped off. The bottom of the part was pretty severely warped. On a part that is only an inch across both the left and right sides curled up 1/16". I'm going to try cleaning the bed with alcohol and see if that helps.

If it doesn't, I'm going to try going back to the standard bed and return this glass bed.

 

[MaccaPopEye]

I did the calibration of the extruder. It was off by several mm. I also did the print calibration to make sure the lines were coming down at the right thickness, and they are good.

Parts are still not sticking to the bed. I thought maybe the parts were just too small, but even some large parts are coming off too. I tried this morning bumping the bed temp up to 70 for the first layer with the speed at 5mm/s. It printed quite a few layers, but eventually popped off. The bottom of the part was pretty severely warped. On a part that is only an inch across both the left and right sides curled up 1/16". I'm going to try cleaning the bed with alcohol and see if that helps.

If it doesn't, I'm going to try going back to the standard bed and return this glass bed.

If you have calibrated the extruder then it certainly sounds like a bed issue to me.

Cleaning the bed with alcohol may help if there is any oils on there that are causing the print not to sick. I also find that with a perfectly level glass bed I don't *need* anything to make prints stick, but if one part of the bed is the tiniest bit out then prints can pop off half way through or right at the end. So a little bit of blue glue stick can help a lot to keep that first layer stuck where it should be.

You could also try undoing all of the bed levelling screws and try to re-level the bed from scratch. Do all 4 corners first and then perform a manual bed mesh level. Clean with rubbing alcohol, apply some blue glue stick and try again

 

[TheEngineer]

If you have calibrated the extruder then it certainly sounds like a bed issue to me.

Cleaning the bed with alcohol may help if there is any oils on there that are causing the print not to sick. I also find that with a perfectly level glass bed I don't *need* anything to make prints stick, but if one part of the bed is the tiniest bit out then prints can pop off half way through or right at the end. So a little bit of blue glue stick can help a lot to keep that first layer stuck where it should be.

You could also try undoing all of the bed levelling screws and try to re-level the bed from scratch. Do all 4 corners first and then perform a manual bed mesh level. Clean with rubbing alcohol, apply some blue glue stick and try again

Thanks. I'll give the cleaning a try. I actually took the whole bed off the other day and started over again.

What's the deal with the glue? Do you do that every time or is that just a one and done.

 

[ludnix]

I use cheap hair spray every time on my glass print bed, it gives me a nice even layer. I use alcohol to clean it off between each print. I heat my bed to 60C for PLA and let the hair spray dry while the glass is warm. I also used thermal adhesive pads to attach my glass to make sure its getting up to temp as well, may be worth using a infrared thermometer to verify it is getting as hot as you set it.

I also am not sure if you meant just the first few layers are at 70c but if so I would make sure the bed is hot for the duration of the print. Parts typically can pop off when the bed cools.

 

[TheEngineer]

I use cheap hair spray every time on my glass print bed, it gives me a nice even layer. I use alcohol to clean it off between each print. I heat my bed to 60C for PLA and let the hair spray dry while the glass is warm. I also used thermal adhesive pads to attach my glass to make sure its getting up to temp as well, may be worth using a infrared thermometer to verify it is getting as hot as you set it.

I also am not sure if you meant just the first few layers are at 70c but if so I would make sure the bed is hot for the duration of the print. Parts typically can pop off when the bed cools.

Thanks. I meant 70 for the first layer and 60 for the rest.

 

[MaccaPopEye]

Thanks. I'll give the cleaning a try. I actually took the whole bed off the other day and started over again.

What's the deal with the glue? Do you do that every time or is that just a one and done.

Glass is so smooth that unless the bed is 100% level and perfectly clean sometimes the print wont adhere well and can just pop off mid print, either after a layer or two, mid way or near the end etc. Could be due to oil or a speck of dirt on the bed or it may be a teeny tiny bit out of level in one spot.

Glue stick or hair spray give a very thin, slightly rough and slightly tacky surface for the first layer to grip to (similar to the reasons why people use build-tac print beds or painters tape). Your bed still needs to be level, but it will also be the tiniest bit more forgiving than with no adhesive layer.

I never had any luck with hair spray (couldn't find the brand aquanet here in Aus, but I also didn't look too hard). But blue or purple glue stick is cheap and works so well for me. Just use the stick to put down a fairly even layer of glue right before you start the print (if you use a heat bed then you can put it down after the bed heats up but it doesn't really matter). After the bed cools the print should still come off fairly easily, I have only ever had trouble with very large & flat prints (almost the whole bed) but in those cases take the glass plate and pop it in the freezer and in 10min the print will pop off. I can sometimes do up to half a dozen prints without cleaning the bed (just re-apply glue stick over the last layer before the next print). But when I clean it alcohol wipes bring all the glue right off, no matter how long it has been sitting on the glass, and any rare stubborn bits just get scraped off with a razor blade.

Also keep in mind that you do not need a heat bed for PLA, I usually don't have mine on for PLA (I only turn it on for very large & flat prints). There are heaps of PLA only 3D printers out there that do not have heat beds at all. BUT it can help (similar to the glue stick) if your bed is a tiny bit out of level as it lets the first layer settle a bit better if your bed isn't perfect, I wouldn't turn it above 70 though and even then I would bring it back down to 50 or 60 after the first 2-3 layers.

 

[dantimdad]

I use hairspray (Unscented Aqua Net) on glass on one of my printers and it adheres very well.

I use nothing or maybe hairspray on the original beds on my Enders. I have more trouble getting a print off the bed than getting it to stick.

I scored a used A8 with direct extrusion for $30 today. I am going to try and get it up and running so I can use it for flexible stuff.

 

[ludnix]

What a steal!

 

[TheEngineer]

This is the CCTREE bed with the plastic coating on top, I literally bought it so prints would adhere well....

I'm gonna throw this thing through a window in the not too distant future...

I cleaned the bed with rubbing alcohol a couple of times. I leveled this sucker AGAIN. I used the CHEP gcode file that moves it to 5 positions and prints a leveling box. That all looks great and things are sticking. I go to print my part and it starts out looking just fine. The skirt prints out with no issue, it is well adhered. As it print, I notice the back right corner starts to warp upwards. This part is an inch across, I'd expect warping like that on a big part, but not this small!

Eventually that corner lets loose and the whole thing comes off. In this picture the left side is 3.4mm and the right is 3.1mm. I'm trying to the print in a different spot on the bed.

 

[TheEngineer]

I just checked the level on my x-axis. It is off my 5mm from left to right :mad: That may be the root of all of this...

I'm going to tear it down and build it back up again.

 

[authentic]

Looking for a shroom nursery, recently posted by reefbuilders video in Australia
Anyone willing to make ine?

 

[MaccaPopEye]

I just checked the level on my x-axis. It is off my 5mm from left to right :mad: That may be the root of all of this...

I'm going to tear it down and build it back up again.

I just saw your post about the test print with different thicknesses at each end and was going to suggest this! Glad you thought of it too and I hope it is the source of your issues (sounds like it could be).

Kit 3D printers are all about trial and error and learning!

 

[MaccaPopEye]

Looking for a shroom nursery, recently posted by reefbuilders video in Australia
Anyone willing to make ine?

If you are in Aus I think gallery aquatic sell them mate and I am sure they can post them. I doubt it will be cheaper to have someone here design and print one for you. If you live in the US or elsewhere then maybe post a WTB thread in the 3D print / hand made items sale forum?

 

[dantimdad]

Just a tip, make sure which brand printer you select when slicing something if you own more than one brand! ;Hilarious;Hilarious;Hilarious

 

[Erica-Renee]

This is the CCTREE bed with the plastic coating on top, I literally bought it so prints would adhere well....

I'm gonna throw this thing through a window in the not too distant future...

I cleaned the bed with rubbing alcohol a couple of times. I leveled this sucker AGAIN. I used the CHEP gcode file that moves it to 5 positions and prints a leveling box. That all looks great and things are sticking. I go to print my part and it starts out looking just fine. The skirt prints out with no issue, it is well adhered. As it print, I notice the back right corner starts to warp upwards. This part is an inch across, I'd expect warping like that on a big part, but not this small!

Eventually that corner lets loose and the whole thing comes off. In this picture the left side is 3.4mm and the right is 3.1mm. I'm trying to the print in a different spot on the bed.

I print on Standard glass i cut myself from window glass stock and go over it with 120 sand paper in every direction.. Clean with Alcohol . I use Rave Hair spray on my bed.. (Just because its the brand i use for my hair as well) It also smells nice .

 

[TheEngineer]

Leveled and I was finally able to complete a print!

Still have some warping but the part stuck without an issue.

 

[dantimdad]

Awesome!

 

[Cameron Martinez]

Man This is a huge thread and I am sorry if I am asking a question that has already been posted.

I just ordered some 3D printed fan guards for my MP 40's. Right after the purchase I found some on Bulk reef's site and listed as reef safe.
So this got me thinking what 3d printing materials are reef safe and what are not?
Do the prints need to be sealed some way or just print clean and stick in your tank?

Thank you for any knowledge any one can provide.

 

[ludnix]

Man This is a huge thread and I am sorry if I am asking a question that has already been posted.

I just ordered some 3D printed fan guards for my MP 40's. Right after the purchase I found some on Bulk reef's site and listed as reef safe.
So this got me thinking what 3d printing materials are reef safe and what are not?
Do the prints need to be sealed some way or just print clean and stick in your tank?

Thank you for any knowledge any one can provide.

Those are probably the ones printed in PET-G which is generally considered ideal for reef applications. Randy Holmes-Farley, the resident chemist, suggested PET-G if Nylon wasn't reasonable. There is questions still as to what was used for the pigments in the filament but there's not any easy way to know. I don't know what I would trust more than the filament to coat with them honestly. They would be easier to clean if they are are coated in a clear coat of some kind to fill in the ridges of the print, but then there's the question of how safe the clear coat is.

There isn't much data on the long term effects yet. I would be interested to do some ICP testing with controls and various print plastics in the future but it's outside of my current budget. That said from my personal experience with printed parts I wouldn't bat an eye at using PET-G prints underwater assuming they have been thoroughly rinsed before use.

 

[Cameron Martinez]

Those are probably the ones printed in PET-G which is generally considered ideal for reef applications. Randy Holmes-Farley, the resident chemist, suggested PET-G if Nylon wasn't reasonable. There is questions still as to what was used for the pigments in the filament but there's not any easy way to know. I don't know what I would trust more than the filament to coat with them honestly. They would be easier to clean if they are are coated in a clear coat of some kind to fill in the ridges of the print, but then there's the question of how safe the clear coat is.

There isn't much data on the long term effects yet. I would be interested to do some ICP testing with controls and various print plastics in the future but it's outside of my current budget. That said from my personal experience with printed parts I wouldn't bat an eye at using PET-G prints underwater assuming they have been thoroughly rinsed before use.

Thank you for your feed back it is greatly appreciated!!

I contacted the person I purchased these from and the only information he gave me is it is ABS plastic. Is there different materials I should try to get further information on what they used? Or in general if it is ABS would it be safe?

I know nothing is 100% with this as far as long term, but as general knowledge of 3d printing materials would ABS be considered safe?

Thanks again!