48x24x16 Lowboy Build

[BroccoliFarmer]

The program is only as good as the programmer. So, i have no idea how to code any of this anyhow. I would probably need a dedicated moon light bar. But, usually asleep anyhow. The fish are a bit upset with me while I am toying with light power settings.

Also, I am not sure why the controller needs plugged in and not battery operated. I can only guess it is because, since the lights are run by the controller settings, it needs to be on? And batteries die?

I dont think it has batteries. Just a removable power wire. I am going to try moon lights later. Put 1% while light at 10PM and 1% at 1 PM. See if 1% is reasonably low. Right now..gonna let the fish try to get back to normal schedule after last night's ooops

 

[Goaway]

I dont think it has batteries. Just a removable power wire. I am going to try moon lights later. Put 1% while light at 10PM and 1% at 1 PM. See if 1% is reasonably low. Right now..gonna let the fish try to get back to normal schedule after last night's ooops

If it does have a battery, it would be a cmos size.
I mean, batteries die quickly. I assume the controller must remain on. But, I could be wrong. I could unplug it ans test to find out. Only if the controller resets... i would have to spend another 10 minutes setting everything back up. If it has a cmos battery, that may hold over until the battery dies. Kind of like a pocket computer I guess...

 

[BroccoliFarmer]

If it does have a battery, it would be a cmos size.
I mean, batteries die quickly. I assume the controller must remain on. But, I could be wrong. I could unplug it ans test to find out. Only if the controller resets... i would have to spend another 10 minutes setting everything back up. If it has a cmos battery, that may hold over until the battery dies. Kind of like a pocket computer I guess...

I just unplugged it. paper weight. No lights, no response. Must be plugged in to use.

 

[Goaway]

I just unplugged it. paper weight. No lights, no response. Must be plugged in to use.

Alright, so my guess was right. orbit marine runs the same way. NP guys, built it all into one controller. That lcd screen must have power at all times. If unplugged, lights wont work. no escaping this I guess. So, np is a built in controller and control panel. Cut corners to reduce cost.



Edit: the range on controller is nice. I am 10ft away with it at least.

 

[BroccoliFarmer]

Alright, so my guess was right. orbit marine runs the same way. NP guys, built it all into one controller. That lcd screen must have power at all times. If unplugged, lights wont work. no escaping this I guess. So, np is a built in controller and control panel. Cut corners to reduce cost.



Edit: the range on controller is nice. I am 10ft away with it at least.

They are a third of the price of EcoTech for a reason!! All of those niceties add up. Meh....I dont mind the futz. I actually dont want all of those benefits. As i start ageing, i actually want something to keep my body and mind occupied. Meh...after the adjustment period..i doubt I will ever miss my EcoTechs. I never really use the mobious app so I dont need to make such a big fuss for not having it anymore!! WOOT WOOT. Hopefully people will give these a chance. So far (sans the controller), I am super impressed with the light itself.

 

[Goaway]

Dings and whistles are expensive. I don't need wifi, I don't need an app. I can understand why people would like to control lights while on vacation, but not even that is a guarantee. I do a lot of things on the computer already. I don't want to run a light app as well.

Right now, the pros are out weighing the cons. The big con is a clunky controller, second con, my own fault. I need to to cable management now. Wires are every where. I should work on that now. But, I had fun fiddling with everything.

When I saw it said 2 controllers. It meant 2 control modes. It stores 2 light settings, which can be toggled by the k71 button. I am still learning.

I would love to be able to compare side by side with other high end lights. I just don't have that kind of funding.

 

[tbrown]

Given that I dont have a par meter, I was hesitant to take these out for a spin as I didnt want to give my inhabitants a sun burn..so have all channels at 50%.

Overall, I am pretty happy with color, vividness, polyp extension but I don't know if that is because they are receiving too much / little par compared to my previous settings. Could i just have a better mix of colors? *shrugs*

One thing I am ANNOYED about is that I came downstairs this morning and my lights were on. I dont know if it was all night. I dont know if there was bleed over from another channel. Maybe I screwed up? No clue Again..comes down to a janky controller. I double checked all my three settings and each of them was set to 0% at 10 PM.

GRRR--they just randomly came on AGAIN as i was typing.

Make sure that time slot 1 is set to 1%.
Edit: nevermind. The V3 has an extra time slot. You already caught it.

 

[BroccoliFarmer]

Make sure that time slot 1 is set to 1%.
Edit: nevermind. The V3 has an extra time slot. You already caught it.

I tried doing 1% moonlight. Still to bright for my liking. Oh well

 

[tbrown]

I tried doing 1% moonlight. Still to bright for my liking. Oh well

I would imagine! My 90w Pro II is too bright at 1% for moonlights, I could only imagine 2 of the 140w V3s.

 

[BroccoliFarmer]

Minor update. It has been about 5 days since I switched over dosing phosphates and nitrates through my ATO. I am now using my Kamoer X1 to dose 20 mls of solution (3 tablespoons of potassium Nitrate and 1 teaspoon of trisodium phosphate per 1,500 ML of RODI) spread out over the day. Nitrates are ~5 PPM and Phosphates are ~0.25 PPM. WAY too early to raise my hands in success; however, I am optimistic that this may work. Obviously i am going to be a little over cautious in testing until I get into my comfort zone...but this approach will at least guarantee I will never bottom out again. Hopefully I don't have an unexpected spike either but given the levels that I am dosing and my photo period for my cheato, I should be ok as long as I don't get lazy and forget my weekly testing.

Anyways...new Kalk Stirrer is going strong. Still trying to zero it in based upon tank consumption. NP lights still are looking outstanding. So much that I am really contemplating a third light to remove a couple of shadows.

Keep on Reefing on!!

 

[tbrown]

Now I'm at a crossroads... I already own a Pro II but I won $100 for the V3. My controller won't work with the new lights and the new controller won't work with the old one... Now what do I do?

 

[tbrown]

Now I'm at a crossroads... I already own a Pro II but I won $100 for the V3. My controller won't work with the new lights and the new controller won't work with the old one... Now what do I do?

Just heard from @noopsyche and the V3 controller will work with the Pro II but not the other way around. That's great news! I'm not sure if that'll make my Pro II have more functionality (the extra channel for red/green separation) but at least I only need 1 controller.

 

[BroccoliFarmer]

Just heard from @noopsyche and the V3 controller will work with the Pro II but not the other way around. That's great news! I'm not sure if that'll make my Pro II have more functionality (the extra channel for red/green separation) but at least I only need 1 controller.

Honestly...two controllers isnt a bad thing. Its not like they are that strong controllers that you are going to play with on a regular basis anyway. Ron Popeil them....set it and forget it!!

 

[kittenbritches]

It's a regular Aqueon 40B from Petco. The Red Sea mounting arm "will adjust to suit tank glass thickness between 5/16" to 3/4". The black trim on the 40B is 7/8"

I'm not sure if you've put your light on yet, but they fit over my Aqueon 40B without issue!

 

[fishface NJ]

The the brace on the tank is 7/8” and the bracket won’t go down because the opening only goes to 3/4”

 

[kittenbritches]

The the brace on the tank is 7/8” and the bracket won’t go down because the opening only goes to 3/4”

That doesn't look right. Can I see a picture of the bracket by itself?

 

[fishface NJ]

That doesn't look right. Can I see a picture of the bracket by itself?

I don't think you didn't see that it said "Red Sea" bracket in the post you quoted. That bracket is Red Sea. I know the noop bracket will fit the brace on the tank. But according to noop I need another light for SPS coverage due to fall out on the edges.

 

[kittenbritches]

I don't think you didn't see that it said "Red Sea" bracket in the post you quoted. That bracket is Red Sea. I know the noop bracket will fit the brace on the tank. But according to noop I need another light for SPS coverage due to fall out at the out areas.

Ohhh. That makes more sense. Yeah, you'd definitely want two over a 40B. The lights are pretty strong, though. It would be interesting to see what the light spread and spillage would be with the light in the center and close to the water.

 

[fishface NJ]

Don't mind me....I am in the middle of a Confirmation party and they keep filling my margarita glass

 

[fishface NJ]

Okay I have a question for those who have lids on your tank and light brackets on the tank. How do you do the cutouts for the light bracket? I used a diy window screen for my lid. I am thinking ahead for those light bracket that hangs on the tank.