58G Oceanic - Build Thread

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Build thread here we go! This is basically 4 months worth of things just pushed together (it's been slow.. hehe).

Here is the tank I picked up from craigslist. Also learned about a good website for buying fish tank stuff locally.
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Leak testing with my 800 TDS hose water...
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Just look at that junk.. this is actually similar TDS water. This is how you know there is junk in the water... :eek: because it was clean before!!
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Here is my new RODI I purchased from someone open box.
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I ended up replacing all the filters in the photo above. I was getting TDS around 80-150. Income TDS was 670 passed the water softener. After getting the spectrapure filters I hit all the way down to 3 TDS then now (as of posting) it usually sits at 8-10. Spectrapure for me all the way. 670 TDS is too high to use anything else imo.
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The water mixing station setup. Waste water into the brute trash can. Clean water into the 5 gallon. If you're wondering what's with some of the extra tubing it's because I made a bypass. So I can make just RO or RODI (if I wanted to use the water for the freshwater tanks and not burn the DI resin or if I wanted to use it to fill a 5 gallon drink water jug). Also I could bypass and burn some water to prevent the TDS creep from getting at my DI resin.
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I sanded the stand down (and the doors in the background).
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Added stain and gloss.
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Here is me removing the water from my freshwater tank. It is sitting where I want this tank to live.
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Moving the tank still...
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The floor is always uneven. You can see my paper shims to lift the legs to make it level.
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I thought I almost killed my wife's fish. Apparently using all RO water isn't good for the fish either (it can put them into shock). So after this I don't use RODI water only for freshwater fish (always with a remineralizer).
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And finally.. back to the 58.
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It is shimmed up and ready for water! Next stop is to add the hardware and the doors. Plus purchase a couple more things (ATO, light stand, ATO res, heater, possibly new filter sock, plumbing for chiller).
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Love the oceanics!
 
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Just purchased the tubing today so I can try and circlulate the water and continue to fill the tank (currently the overflow and sump still need water).
IMG_3523.JPG

This 1/2" to 3/4" adapter from Lowes is wayyyy too loose. Currently good for a place holder but I'll have to order something from BRS or Amazon. I guess this will be postponed a few days. Might as well buy the heater in that purchase too :)
IMG_3524.JPG
 

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If it was used as a QT, you might consider running PolyFilter or CupriSorb to remove any residual copper. I'll be running Cuprisorb on the 220, as it was previously a LFS fish sales tank. Just to be safe.

~Bruce
 
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If it was used as a QT, you might consider running PolyFilter or CupriSorb to remove any residual copper. I'll be running Cuprisorb on the 220, as it was previously a LFS fish sales tank. Just to be safe.

~Bruce

I didn't really think about that. ;Sorry

I plan to mix salt in the tank (I'll find out if that's a good idea or not after I try it...). After that I'll add sand and rock. Should I use the polyfilter after I add the sand/rock or do you think before the salt mix? After the rock I'd imagine? I plan to use chemipure elite and purigen at least during the cycle process as well.
 

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I don't know Chemipure Elite - Purigen removes nitrogen compounds, so can pull both ammonia and nitrates - could slow your cycle a bit, but ... will you be moving the existing rock to the new tank? That rock's already cycled, so you shouldn't see much more than a blip of a cycle. _New_ rock may have to cure a bit, which could result in raised ammonia levels during the cure. (Which is why most folks cure new rock in a barrel, not the tank...)

I should think that as soon as you've got water moving through the system would be a good time to deploy the PolyFilter.

~Bruce

P.S. - That's why we have Reef2Reef - because no one person can possibly think of everything.
 

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Best tank to have, and nice rice cooker;)
 
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I don't know Chemipure Elite - Purigen removes nitrogen compounds, so can pull both ammonia and nitrates - could slow your cycle a bit, but ... will you be moving the existing rock to the new tank? That rock's already cycled, so you shouldn't see much more than a blip of a cycle. _New_ rock may have to cure a bit, which could result in raised ammonia levels during the cure. (Which is why most folks cure new rock in a barrel, not the tank...)

I should think that as soon as you've got water moving through the system would be a good time to deploy the PolyFilter.

~Bruce

P.S. - That's why we have Reef2Reef - because no one person can possibly think of everything.

I forgot to add this to the first photos. But here is my live rock I got around January. It's been sitting in flowing water for like 3-4 months now =] It should be about 50 lbs. I probably currently have 5 lbs of rock in my nano.

Afterwards, based on something I saw @saltyfilmfolks post, I added some filtering media to this bin.
IMG_2620.jpg

Best tank to have, and nice rice cooker;)

haha thanks :p My wife is from the Philippines so she is use to eating rice every day. Me on the other hand, I'm use to drinking coffee every day (as you can see my small collection of coffee makers).
 

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Rice is a staple here too:)
 

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I forgot to add this to the first photos. But here is my live rock I got around January. It's been sitting in flowing water for like 3-4 months now =] It should be about 50 lbs. I probably currently have 5 lbs of rock in my nano.
IMG_2620.jpg



haha thanks :p My wife is from the Philippines so she is use to eating rice every day. Me on the other hand, I'm use to drinking coffee every day (as you can see my small collection of coffee makers).
Thats the way to do it!
 
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I'm trying to find something like this,

IMG_3538.PNG

I don't think this specific one will work. None of them list thread size and this is the only chiller part like this I can find.. my brand is different and my chiller is discontinued.

Does anyone know where I may be able to find replacement stuff like this?
 
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I'm trying to find something like this,

IMG_3538.PNG

I don't think this specific one will work. None of them list thread size and this is the only chiller part like this I can find.. my brand is different and my chiller is discontinued.

Does anyone know where I may be able to find replacement stuff like this?

Plan B) I'll just use reducer fittings.
I'm going to change out the bulkhead and move the check valve directly below it, just incase the chiller connections below were to malfunction. And I put a valve in so I could also remove either the chiller/sump/pump in the future should the check valve leak some.

Good thing the tank isn't entirely full yet. I should be able to get to that bulkhead without removing more than 1-2 gallons of water from the overflow.

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One cup at a time.
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Starting to look like Christmas. ;p
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Yeah you got it running :)
 
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I had this tank, it was probably my all time favorite size. What are you planning for lights?

This is my ghetto 10 gallon. It has a Hydra 26HD on it. It was always intended to go on my next tank. So I'll have either just one or two 26HDs on the Oceanic. Depending on what the Seneye par map looks like after I set it up. Aiming for 100 par at the sand and higher as you go up... my current goal anyways. Also I'll be getting the Hydra Mounting System possibly in May so I can mount it with something that look better than Lowes DIY. After I mount it I may be switching my livestock that day. Not sure how important the light is to cycling the tank but if it is I'll need to use another cheap light in the meantime.

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Looking back to your reefing roots: Did you start with Instant Ocean salt?

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