75 gallon standard size 48x18

vareefer1979

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Has anyone built diy 75 gallon stand using 3/4 lumber? I planned to use pocket screws for build. I am sure that I would need center support for strength. Would like to add 3rd door on end to have easy access for sump removal/install. Would love to see stand pics/plans if anyone has performed this method. I know there is a lot of 2x4 instructions available, but I was hoping to use 3/4 lumber, so the stand was not so heavy and to maximize space under tank.

Thanks
 

Quietman

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This is basically what I'm doing next tank. 3/4 plywood is incredibly strong on end. Not sure you'd need a third door with open setup like this but it'll depend how you skin it (all my skin panels will be removeable for open access).

Good luck!
 

RocketEngineer

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My stand was oversized but built from 5/4 clear pine from a lumber company (not a box store).
F31E15B3-0181-47C4-A89E-AF3A9056EF66.jpeg
751028B0-972D-4E18-8409-5198B98C72E7.jpeg

This stand handled both a 75g and 125g for multiple years without any problems.
 
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vareefer1979

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My stand was oversized but built from 5/4 clear pine from a lumber company (not a box store).
F31E15B3-0181-47C4-A89E-AF3A9056EF66.jpeg
751028B0-972D-4E18-8409-5198B98C72E7.jpeg

This stand handled both a 75g and 125g for multiple years without any problems.
My stand was oversized but built from 5/4 clear pine from a lumber company (not a box store).
F31E15B3-0181-47C4-A89E-AF3A9056EF66.jpeg
751028B0-972D-4E18-8409-5198B98C72E7.jpeg

This stand handled both a 75g and 125g for multiple years without any problems.
Exactly what I was looking for, was pocket screws used for assembly? I like the open cabinet space without all the extra weight/bulk of 2x4. The pics are straight forward for build, just wondering about the back upright support, are the turned perpendicular or double? Hard for me to visualize for pic. If you have rough drawing of stand that would be excellent.

Thanks so much for pics, I love the 5/4 lumber idea.
 

RocketEngineer

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Yes, pocket screws for the board ends and through boards in the corners. The four uprights are an”L” shape, two boards screwed perpendicular to each other then pocket screwed to the upper and lower frames. Don’t have the plans anymore, or the tank/stand for that matter.
 
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vareefer1979

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Yes, pocket screws for the board ends and through boards in the corners. The four uprights are an”L” shape, two boards screwed perpendicular to each other then pocket screwed to the upper and lower frames. Don’t have the plans anymore, or the tank/stand for that matter.
Thanks
 
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vareefer1979

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Yes, pocket screws for the board ends and through boards in the corners. The four uprights are an”L” shape, two boards screwed perpendicular to each other then pocket screwed to the upper and lower frames. Don’t have the plans anymore, or the tank/stand for that matter.
Did you use 5/4 x 6 or 5/4 x 4 ?

Thanks
 

Lost in the Sauce

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I would advise rethinking pocket screws. You're not structural and not suitable for this application.

Also if you're building with food quarter inch plywood to save weight, You should probably check on those numbers. If you laminate 3/4-in ply into 2x4, You are going to end up with a far heavier product than kiln dried pine 2x4.
 

Quietman

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I've seen 3/4" with those cam locks they use for Red Sea cabinets. Don't think pocket screws would be issue at all. There's very little torsion stress on an aquarium stand - unless it's high traffic area where it's getting bumped (but don't put it there). All the stress is compression so the screws are really just holding the board in place to take the load. Not much load on the screw at all which is different from most 2x4 stands where the screws are taking considerable sheer stress.

I doubt you need any other support as you're attaching top and bottom. If really worried you can put a 1x1 in the corner for support, but I wouldn't bother.

Compared to most manufactured stands - your 3/4" plywood is going to be much more sturdy and handle more weight.
 

RocketEngineer

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Did you use 5/4 x 6 or 5/4 x 4 ?

Thanks
I used 5/4 X 4.

Regarding screws: the frame should be built with the legs between an upper and lower box. By doing so, all the load is transferred by parts making contact, not through the screws. Just like framing in a house, screws just hold things in place while the lumber does the supporting,
 

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