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ilyad
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Awesome! Glad someone else likes the idea and can use it.
75 Gallon technology heavy tank with DIY
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Awesome! Glad someone else likes the idea and can use it.
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ilyad
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Its been another month... time for an update! 
As you may recall, the next step of the build was to create the electrical components panel aka where all the power supplies, controllers, and wires will go. The purpose of this was to keep everything organized (as there will be a lot of stuff plugged in and running for this tank), while making it possible to replace or service any pieces that may need it. To do so, I decided to cut out a wooden panel with wire holes and have designed it to sit inside the stand where it will hang on the inside wall. Im sure it'll make more sense as you get to see it in action. PS. You can go back to the previous posts to find the layout of the gear that was drawn on cardboard.
First we went ahead and started with some wood (same wood I used for the canopy), and cut it to size.
I then test fitted the wood piece and although it fit perfectly, I noticed that there would not be enough room to tilt the panel once all the items are mounted to it, some brainstorming, and I've decided to cut it down in height which will allow it to just slide out sideways more easily. The stand has a wood overhang that is in the way. So back on the table saw it goes to lop off a few more inches.
I then measured off and used hole saws to cut out 1.5 inch and 2.5 inch holes for various wires and whatnots.
Here it is with all the holes cut out.
Next step was to finish the wood to paint quality, so went ahead and sanded down all edges, and surfaces.
These hole covers will pop into the pre-cut openings to make stuff even tidier.
Test fit and appearance check
Next step is to go ahead and finish construction of the panel and secure the mounting hardware. I will be using this picture/mirror hanging kit thing.
As you may recall, the next step of the build was to create the electrical components panel aka where all the power supplies, controllers, and wires will go. The purpose of this was to keep everything organized (as there will be a lot of stuff plugged in and running for this tank), while making it possible to replace or service any pieces that may need it. To do so, I decided to cut out a wooden panel with wire holes and have designed it to sit inside the stand where it will hang on the inside wall. Im sure it'll make more sense as you get to see it in action. PS. You can go back to the previous posts to find the layout of the gear that was drawn on cardboard.
First we went ahead and started with some wood (same wood I used for the canopy), and cut it to size.
I then test fitted the wood piece and although it fit perfectly, I noticed that there would not be enough room to tilt the panel once all the items are mounted to it, some brainstorming, and I've decided to cut it down in height which will allow it to just slide out sideways more easily. The stand has a wood overhang that is in the way. So back on the table saw it goes to lop off a few more inches.
I then measured off and used hole saws to cut out 1.5 inch and 2.5 inch holes for various wires and whatnots.
Here it is with all the holes cut out.
Next step was to finish the wood to paint quality, so went ahead and sanded down all edges, and surfaces.
These hole covers will pop into the pre-cut openings to make stuff even tidier.
Test fit and appearance check
Next step is to go ahead and finish construction of the panel and secure the mounting hardware. I will be using this picture/mirror hanging kit thing.
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ilyad
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Thanks! I appreciate the positive comments.
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ilyad
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Another exciting post incoming. This month I spent most of the time working on the electrical gadgets panel. The panel is designed to hide the wires and power supplies behind it while keeping all the items displayed neatly on the inside of the tank stand. The panel is also designed to have all electrical components wholly attached to the panel which can be removed from the stand in the event parts need maintenance or replacement.
Start by cutting some wood (same as the floating canopy) to size.
Mark off areas for drilling holes to add wire management pieces
Using a hole saw attachment, I cut out several holes in two sizes
Clean and finish edges and surfaces
Hole covers used
Mocked and placed in their respective places to see how it would look
Added other components for mocking up purposes to see how other pieces would fit
Start by cutting some wood (same as the floating canopy) to size.
Mark off areas for drilling holes to add wire management pieces
Using a hole saw attachment, I cut out several holes in two sizes
Clean and finish edges and surfaces
Hole covers used
Mocked and placed in their respective places to see how it would look
Added other components for mocking up purposes to see how other pieces would fit
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ilyad
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Next stage involved creating the mounting elements for the panel. I used a picture hanging system made out of aluminum that is designed to support up to 100 lbs, which is much more than enough.
I used wood to create mounting areas for the hanging system as well as provide spacing on the back of the panel for power supplies and wiring.
Measure out the location and use clamps to hold the wood in place.
I used exterior wood deck screws that are highly corrosion resistant to to screw in the wood.
Marking off the location of the screw locations
Using a pilot drill, I created a drilled a small hole. Then using a larger drill bit, I notched the wood a small amount to ensure the screws sit flush
Screws sitting flush
Moving on to the other side to repeat the process
Finished product
Fill small holes (which I initially drilled in error)
View of the panel being done and test fitted into the stand
I used wood to create mounting areas for the hanging system as well as provide spacing on the back of the panel for power supplies and wiring.
Measure out the location and use clamps to hold the wood in place.
I used exterior wood deck screws that are highly corrosion resistant to to screw in the wood.
Marking off the location of the screw locations
Using a pilot drill, I created a drilled a small hole. Then using a larger drill bit, I notched the wood a small amount to ensure the screws sit flush
Screws sitting flush
Moving on to the other side to repeat the process
Finished product
Fill small holes (which I initially drilled in error)
View of the panel being done and test fitted into the stand
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ilyad
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Next I went ahead and put more final touches on the panel.
Started with cutting down the size of the bracket on the lower half of the panel since the mounting point is shorter.
Mark off the the bracket where there should be a cut. Then a picture after showing the fit.
Thinking about improving the design, I decided to drill 3 larger holes in the top portion of the panel to allow heat to escape if the power supplies will make it.
Next, comes the paining. Pain the brackets (with same paint spray as before) and the panel as well.
After the pain has dried, it was time to attach the wire management parts. I used double sided outdoor 3M tape which was cut into small pieces so that they do not stick out past the edge.
I did the same process for the smaller parts as well.
Full view of the panel with all the covers in place
Started with cutting down the size of the bracket on the lower half of the panel since the mounting point is shorter.
Mark off the the bracket where there should be a cut. Then a picture after showing the fit.
Thinking about improving the design, I decided to drill 3 larger holes in the top portion of the panel to allow heat to escape if the power supplies will make it.
Next, comes the paining. Pain the brackets (with same paint spray as before) and the panel as well.
After the pain has dried, it was time to attach the wire management parts. I used double sided outdoor 3M tape which was cut into small pieces so that they do not stick out past the edge.
I did the same process for the smaller parts as well.
Full view of the panel with all the covers in place
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ilyad
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Lets do one more update on the panel since Im on a roll....
Next step was to attach the hanging bracket to the panel itself. After measuring out the placement for the hanging bracket, I used a pointed screw bit to mark the screw holes. This also works as a guide to make sure the screws go in evenly.
Once the screws are attached, the bracket is secure to the panel.
Repeat the process for bottom bracket as well.
Here is a good picture showing the bracket and how they hang on to each other. The other portion will attach to the inside of the stand.
Moving on, I attached the MP40 and Vecta controller mounts to the front of the panel. Using a ruler and a pencil, I marked off the center line.
I then used double sided tape again to glue down the brackets in place. Afterwards, I secured them with included screws.
Good view of the panel before its put into the stand.
And some photos of it fitted inside the stand.
Next step was to attach the hanging bracket to the panel itself. After measuring out the placement for the hanging bracket, I used a pointed screw bit to mark the screw holes. This also works as a guide to make sure the screws go in evenly.
Once the screws are attached, the bracket is secure to the panel.
Repeat the process for bottom bracket as well.
Here is a good picture showing the bracket and how they hang on to each other. The other portion will attach to the inside of the stand.
Moving on, I attached the MP40 and Vecta controller mounts to the front of the panel. Using a ruler and a pencil, I marked off the center line.
I then used double sided tape again to glue down the brackets in place. Afterwards, I secured them with included screws.
Good view of the panel before its put into the stand.
And some photos of it fitted inside the stand.
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ilyad
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The devil is in the details!
Keep the updates coming!
Thanks! I'll keep them uploaded as I continue to get this sorted out.
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ilyad
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The next major step was adding the bracket pieces to the aquarium stand itself so that the panel can be hung in place. The key was to space it properly so that most of the weight is supported by the larger top bracket, while keeping the bottom one within specs to prevent the panel from potentially flapping forward or being skewed.
Working on a dark stand, I attached painter’s tape to the stand for better visibility of my pencil marks.
I wanted the panel to have an equal space on the sides and bottom, which means it would have to hang a bit off the ground. To do that, I found a piece of thick rubber mat that I placed in the stand and sat the panel on it.
I then marked off the top of the panel. Finally using a carpenter square ruler, I transferred that mark to the the inside of the stand.
I then carefully measured and marked off where the bracket will sit.
I repeated the process on the bottom as well. (What is not pictured, is that I attached the top bracket first and hung the panel up on it to test how it worked and where it sat. Once I confirmed that it sat well, I proceeded to measure off the bottom bracket).
As previously shown, I used the pointy bit to mark center holes so that I can screw in the screws while keeping them in alignment. Also, this allowed me to remove the masking tape but leave the screw marks in place.
Picture of the panel now hanging in its location
Working on a dark stand, I attached painter’s tape to the stand for better visibility of my pencil marks.
I wanted the panel to have an equal space on the sides and bottom, which means it would have to hang a bit off the ground. To do that, I found a piece of thick rubber mat that I placed in the stand and sat the panel on it.
I then marked off the top of the panel. Finally using a carpenter square ruler, I transferred that mark to the the inside of the stand.
I then carefully measured and marked off where the bracket will sit.
I repeated the process on the bottom as well. (What is not pictured, is that I attached the top bracket first and hung the panel up on it to test how it worked and where it sat. Once I confirmed that it sat well, I proceeded to measure off the bottom bracket).
As previously shown, I used the pointy bit to mark center holes so that I can screw in the screws while keeping them in alignment. Also, this allowed me to remove the masking tape but leave the screw marks in place.
Picture of the panel now hanging in its location
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ilyad
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Another quick update incoming.... this weekend I continued to work on the panel, mainly working on the brackets for all the power supplies.
First, started with labeling the power supplies so that I can find which one belongs to each piece of equipment in the future.
Second, I started with mocking up the power supplies.
Then measured out the exact placement.
After that, remove the backing for the double sided tape (which comes with the brackets).
Here are all of the brackets taped down to the panel.
Afterwards, as previously done, I used the pointy bit to mark off the screw hole centers, which would ensure that the screws go in evenly and not skew the bracket.
Screw down with the included screws.
Finished product.
Little pro tip: EcoTech sells the brackets for $17 a piece. AI sells them for $15. However, they are they same exact bracket. So if you’re looking to get one, search for the AI branded one.
First, started with labeling the power supplies so that I can find which one belongs to each piece of equipment in the future.
Second, I started with mocking up the power supplies.
Then measured out the exact placement.
After that, remove the backing for the double sided tape (which comes with the brackets).
Here are all of the brackets taped down to the panel.
Afterwards, as previously done, I used the pointy bit to mark off the screw hole centers, which would ensure that the screws go in evenly and not skew the bracket.
Screw down with the included screws.
Finished product.
Little pro tip: EcoTech sells the brackets for $17 a piece. AI sells them for $15. However, they are they same exact bracket. So if you’re looking to get one, search for the AI branded one.
fantastic job detailing the process on this build! I especially appreciate the documentation of the controller mounting board, as I am working on one at the moment. looking forward to future updates.
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ilyad
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Thank you! And more updates coming soon!
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ilyad
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Finally got more done to amount to an update. In this installment, I continued to work on the electrical panel mounting the power strips and routing a lot of the wires.
Started by creating a temple of the GHL power strips to lay out their placement on the panel.
I then marked off and cut out the areas where the hanging holes are located to get exact placement for the screws.
Here is the finished template. I also marked the front and top of the template so I would place it correctly.
Using the templated, I found where to put the screws.
After attaching the fist power block, I laid the template for the second one. Notice that they are slightly staggered to allow wires to alternate between one another.
Both power strips attached.
Next step was to cut the wire channel to the right size to run along the side of the panel where all wires will neatly be tucked away. Marked the distance
Then using a box cutter, I scored the line multiple times.
The channel then snapped on the scored line.
Test fit of the wire channel and some random cables to see how they would fit.
How it would look with the cap on.
Laid out the channel and the controller shelf where they would ultimately go.
Test inside the stand.
Started by creating a temple of the GHL power strips to lay out their placement on the panel.
I then marked off and cut out the areas where the hanging holes are located to get exact placement for the screws.
Here is the finished template. I also marked the front and top of the template so I would place it correctly.
Using the templated, I found where to put the screws.
After attaching the fist power block, I laid the template for the second one. Notice that they are slightly staggered to allow wires to alternate between one another.
Both power strips attached.
Next step was to cut the wire channel to the right size to run along the side of the panel where all wires will neatly be tucked away. Marked the distance
Then using a box cutter, I scored the line multiple times.
The channel then snapped on the scored line.
Test fit of the wire channel and some random cables to see how they would fit.
How it would look with the cap on.
Laid out the channel and the controller shelf where they would ultimately go.
Test inside the stand.
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coming along nicely.
if I were you i'd paint that wire duct black with a quick coat of black spray paint. that way it'll be almost unnoticeable. just a thought considering all the time you've spent on it thus far!
if I were you i'd paint that wire duct black with a quick coat of black spray paint. that way it'll be almost unnoticeable. just a thought considering all the time you've spent on it thus far!
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ilyad
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I thought about paining it black, but after giving it some thought, decided against it. First, the wire duct has moving parts (lid and the clips that hold the lid) so I can anticipate the paint cracking and chipping over time. That was the biggest concert. But secondarily, the Profilux controller and GHL Doser have grey accents, so I figured that it will all still flow and look nice once those are added. Thank you for the suggestion though, as that is something I had thought of as well
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ilyad
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Lets get another update posted.
In this "exciting" update, I continued to work on the electrical panel.
One of the concerns I had attaching the wire channel, is that the stainless steel screws I had were once again a smidge longer than the thickness of the panel. Going back to my rubber liner idea from the floating canopy, I decided to cut more of the rubber that would act as a spacer on the wire channel.
I measured out the rubber liner to be the same width as the wire channel, which had to be made out of two parts.
The little extra bit cut off.
To hold the rubber piece on the channel while it is being screwed down to the panel, I went to the trusty BSI glue. Unfortunately, I could not find my cheaper super glue, but not wanting to head out to the store, it had to make due.
Adding a little line of glue.
And now screwing it down in place.
A little view with the lid on.
Next bit, is to get some of the wire management done. Start with putting the MP40 controllers in place, and feeding some of the wires through.
On the back side, you can see the wires for the EcoTech gear (MP40's and Vectra).
Added zip tie holders and attach the cables with some zipties.
Lets see how the cables look in place. I planned the cables such that they match the same order of the controllers on the left.
A little tip is that if you take apart the controller for the MP40 (and removing the central button to do so), you can disconnect the wire leading to the MP40, so that you can run them through the pre-drilled holes.
A view of how the wires would look.
Just like the wires on the right leading to the controllers, I routed and ziptied the power wires as well.
Finally, I added the power supply for the Profilux (top left) and ziptied them as well.
Close-up of the wire management on the back of the panel.
To help keep track of all the wires, I also plan to label all outlets.
And another picture of the controller in place. This time with wires all behind the panel.
In this "exciting" update, I continued to work on the electrical panel.
One of the concerns I had attaching the wire channel, is that the stainless steel screws I had were once again a smidge longer than the thickness of the panel. Going back to my rubber liner idea from the floating canopy, I decided to cut more of the rubber that would act as a spacer on the wire channel.
I measured out the rubber liner to be the same width as the wire channel, which had to be made out of two parts.
The little extra bit cut off.
To hold the rubber piece on the channel while it is being screwed down to the panel, I went to the trusty BSI glue. Unfortunately, I could not find my cheaper super glue, but not wanting to head out to the store, it had to make due.
Adding a little line of glue.
And now screwing it down in place.
A little view with the lid on.
Next bit, is to get some of the wire management done. Start with putting the MP40 controllers in place, and feeding some of the wires through.
On the back side, you can see the wires for the EcoTech gear (MP40's and Vectra).
Added zip tie holders and attach the cables with some zipties.
Lets see how the cables look in place. I planned the cables such that they match the same order of the controllers on the left.
A little tip is that if you take apart the controller for the MP40 (and removing the central button to do so), you can disconnect the wire leading to the MP40, so that you can run them through the pre-drilled holes.
A view of how the wires would look.
Just like the wires on the right leading to the controllers, I routed and ziptied the power wires as well.
Finally, I added the power supply for the Profilux (top left) and ziptied them as well.
Close-up of the wire management on the back of the panel.
To help keep track of all the wires, I also plan to label all outlets.
And another picture of the controller in place. This time with wires all behind the panel.
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great work!
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