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ilyad
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75 Gallon technology heavy tank with DIY
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ilyad
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Hopefully will have another update after this weekend!
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ilyad
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Just a super fast update this time around. In this installment, I wall mounted the EcoTech battery back up to be used in the future with the MP40's or the return pump.
I first moved the tank out of the way and located a stud. After marking off the 6 holes, I drilled pilot holes into the stud and the drywall anchors.
The drywall anchor holes are wider so that the anchor could fit
Here are all the holes preppared
And the battery pack mounted.
View from inside the stand.
Then preparing for the next step, I taped off the top of the tank with masking tape (to prevent scratches) and used a large level to see with what I would be dealing with.
Side to side is pretty level, so much so that I dont need to worry about that.
The front to back level does need adjustment as its about 1/4 inch off.
It is quite common for floors to slope down towards the center of the room. This will be fixed easily with some composite shims. The fact that I only need to fix one direction, is a ton easier than if I had to level front and back along with the side to side.
I first moved the tank out of the way and located a stud. After marking off the 6 holes, I drilled pilot holes into the stud and the drywall anchors.
The drywall anchor holes are wider so that the anchor could fit
Here are all the holes preppared
And the battery pack mounted.
View from inside the stand.
Then preparing for the next step, I taped off the top of the tank with masking tape (to prevent scratches) and used a large level to see with what I would be dealing with.
Side to side is pretty level, so much so that I dont need to worry about that.
The front to back level does need adjustment as its about 1/4 inch off.
It is quite common for floors to slope down towards the center of the room. This will be fixed easily with some composite shims. The fact that I only need to fix one direction, is a ton easier than if I had to level front and back along with the side to side.
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ilyad
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Whoa guys, I apologize for such a long delay between posts, but to be honest, until recently there was very little to update. So lets pick up where I left off...
First and foremost, I needed to wrap up all the plumbing for the tank as only the down pipes were fixed so far.
Here is a little view of the overflow section
And here all of the plumbing is attached in.
The plumbing in this set up is a little weird since the tank is drilled to accommodate a bean animal style overflow, but the sump is undersized to allow me to keep a lot of things in there. Later if I am able to relocate the accessories outside the stand, I would be able to upgrade to a bigger sump and hence can utilize bean animal better. For now both of the down pipes are merged into one to fit the sump that comes with the tank.
Quick shot with more of the gear in the stand and then a close up of the plumbing again.
First and foremost, I needed to wrap up all the plumbing for the tank as only the down pipes were fixed so far.
Here is a little view of the overflow section
And here all of the plumbing is attached in.
The plumbing in this set up is a little weird since the tank is drilled to accommodate a bean animal style overflow, but the sump is undersized to allow me to keep a lot of things in there. Later if I am able to relocate the accessories outside the stand, I would be able to upgrade to a bigger sump and hence can utilize bean animal better. For now both of the down pipes are merged into one to fit the sump that comes with the tank.
Quick shot with more of the gear in the stand and then a close up of the plumbing again.
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ilyad
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Continuing with the update, the next step had to be to level the tank.
After some extensive research I settled on these EZ-Shim brand shims which are made from composite plastic which can handle loads of weight. Also, unlike wood, they do not get effected by moisture or compression over the years.
To make sure the stand is not moved during the shimming process, I have also used painters tape to mark off the corners of the stand on the floor.
Another small, but very effective upgrade is to silicone the space between the tank and the stand with black silicone. Doing this, makes sure that there is no opening where water can enter and seep under the tank, which can have the potential to rot or warp the wood inside.
Elliot from @GoldenStateCorals assisted me with this step by taping off the tank and stand, filling it with silicone, and smoothing it out. After 24 hours, the silicone cures to create a perfect seal. In some instances, a second round is required to fill any holes that may have popped up once the silicone cured.
After the tank was leveled, the next step was to add sand and rock. I went with Special Grade sized grain, which allows for higher flow but at the same time small enough to give a very natural appearance. The rocks are from a much earlier post and sourced from CeramEco. The Vida Rock is extremely light, yet porous, creating a ton of space for nitrifying bacteria while not adding bulk to the scape. All of the rock in the tank totals to roughly 20 lbs.
Here is the view with the lights on
And here is the process while the tank was being filled
The tank is filled, still a bit cloudy, but it’s finally started, the cycle was started on 6/15/19.
After some extensive research I settled on these EZ-Shim brand shims which are made from composite plastic which can handle loads of weight. Also, unlike wood, they do not get effected by moisture or compression over the years.
To make sure the stand is not moved during the shimming process, I have also used painters tape to mark off the corners of the stand on the floor.
Another small, but very effective upgrade is to silicone the space between the tank and the stand with black silicone. Doing this, makes sure that there is no opening where water can enter and seep under the tank, which can have the potential to rot or warp the wood inside.
Elliot from @GoldenStateCorals assisted me with this step by taping off the tank and stand, filling it with silicone, and smoothing it out. After 24 hours, the silicone cures to create a perfect seal. In some instances, a second round is required to fill any holes that may have popped up once the silicone cured.
After the tank was leveled, the next step was to add sand and rock. I went with Special Grade sized grain, which allows for higher flow but at the same time small enough to give a very natural appearance. The rocks are from a much earlier post and sourced from CeramEco. The Vida Rock is extremely light, yet porous, creating a ton of space for nitrifying bacteria while not adding bulk to the scape. All of the rock in the tank totals to roughly 20 lbs.
Here is the view with the lights on
And here is the process while the tank was being filled
The tank is filled, still a bit cloudy, but it’s finally started, the cycle was started on 6/15/19.
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ilyad
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Moving forward, the tank still needs extensive work organizing and managing wires, all the sensors, and programming the Profilux 4. I will not bore you with all of the process of doing that, but will include some quick tips and such.
Here you can see that the sump area is still a mess with wires everywhere.
As I have mentioned previously, the Profilux 4 and Doser 2.1 will be sitting on an acrylic shelf that was custom made hanging from the electrical panel which is removable. After marking and drilling the pilot holes, the shelf was attached using stainless screws.
Here is the view with the trey in the stand.
And here is the Profilux 4 in its place. (The doser is currently on the nano and will be moved over, once this tank is cycled and corals are moved from the nano to here).
As for some wire management for various sensors, I used small zipties to connect grouped sensors together and cover them in flex tubing, and then feeding through the wire channel. This method will allow me to grab bunches of wires for the sensors that need to be serviced, if such an event arises.
Another quick shout out to @GoldenStateCorals for helping me order this tank, and assist with the final steps of getting it up and running.
Here you can see that the sump area is still a mess with wires everywhere.
As I have mentioned previously, the Profilux 4 and Doser 2.1 will be sitting on an acrylic shelf that was custom made hanging from the electrical panel which is removable. After marking and drilling the pilot holes, the shelf was attached using stainless screws.
Here is the view with the trey in the stand.
And here is the Profilux 4 in its place. (The doser is currently on the nano and will be moved over, once this tank is cycled and corals are moved from the nano to here).
As for some wire management for various sensors, I used small zipties to connect grouped sensors together and cover them in flex tubing, and then feeding through the wire channel. This method will allow me to grab bunches of wires for the sensors that need to be serviced, if such an event arises.
Another quick shout out to @GoldenStateCorals for helping me order this tank, and assist with the final steps of getting it up and running.
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ilyad
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Last but not least, I have decided to do a separate post for the pictures of the tank as it sits now, about a week after the cycle has started (and water cleared up).
There will probably not be much updating in the next few weeks as I continue to wait for the cycle to do its thing, and doing more work on all the wires and sensors in the stand.
There will probably not be much updating in the next few weeks as I continue to wait for the cycle to do its thing, and doing more work on all the wires and sensors in the stand.
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ilyad
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The tank continues to cycle (just passed the 8 week mark yesterday) and should be ready for some fish and easy coral shortly. I am going on a short vacation next week, so I plan to make the move after I am back. However, while the tank has been cycling, I have done some additional changes and work that isnt particularly fun or photo worthy. I'll just highlight some here for now.
First, I set up the GHL optical and float sensors for the ATO. These will be used in conjunction with the Doser to top off the water. In the short term, I am using a small Sicce pump to do the topping off (while the doser is on the small tank).
Cant really see the sensors, but the wires were ran along the side of the sump and back towards the electrical board.
Likewise, I connected the Finnex 300 watt titanium heater.
And connected the Temp probe. I've yet to figure out the other GHL probes that came with the kit and which I plan to use, but temp one was useful right away.
All the wires neatly tuck behind the sump and run to the panel.
In the previous design for the electrical panel, I had to remove the entire thing to put the wire channel cover on and off. This was a little annoying to deal with, especially early when I was adding and removing wires constantly. Luckily, I noticed that I had enough room in the stand that if I cut the cover in half, I can remove the pieces individually without removing the panel. A bit of luck and changes, made this tank a million times easier.
Some shots of the sump area with all the wires tucked away (the ones mentioned earlier).
And a shot of the whole tank
First, I set up the GHL optical and float sensors for the ATO. These will be used in conjunction with the Doser to top off the water. In the short term, I am using a small Sicce pump to do the topping off (while the doser is on the small tank).
Cant really see the sensors, but the wires were ran along the side of the sump and back towards the electrical board.
Likewise, I connected the Finnex 300 watt titanium heater.
And connected the Temp probe. I've yet to figure out the other GHL probes that came with the kit and which I plan to use, but temp one was useful right away.
All the wires neatly tuck behind the sump and run to the panel.
In the previous design for the electrical panel, I had to remove the entire thing to put the wire channel cover on and off. This was a little annoying to deal with, especially early when I was adding and removing wires constantly. Luckily, I noticed that I had enough room in the stand that if I cut the cover in half, I can remove the pieces individually without removing the panel. A bit of luck and changes, made this tank a million times easier.
Some shots of the sump area with all the wires tucked away (the ones mentioned earlier).
And a shot of the whole tank
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ilyad
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Ok, continuing with some more random build steps during the cycle.
After running some of the lighting cables and plugging them in, I realized that the power blocks for the XR15s would be sitting on the ground, which I wanted to avoid in case of leakage. I purchased 2 more power block holders and attached them to the wall.
Likewise, I purchased another ATO container that will sit just to the side of the aquarium (previously planned to go there and the tank was measured to sit just to the right of it. (Don't worry about the large window, as a curtain is covering that area 99.99% of the time).
And how it sits with the curtain back in its place.
Next, I needed to attach the reflectors to the T5 bulbs. These reflectors were part of the T5 kit.
Lights on with the reflectors. (still only has one of the Radions).
Finally, I hooked up the second PAB power bar and ran some additional equipment to it (one being the temp ATO pump).
Also, I ran the cables and connected the touch screen for the Pofilux, but got too lazy that day and havent mounted to the wall yet.
Not included in the picture build, I also hooked up both of the MP40s and programmed them. Here is the close up of the tank as it looked this weekend
And here is the living room shot at night showing the blue glow from both tanks
As the tank sits now, here are the thing that are hooked up, programmed and working:
- 1 Radion XR15
- 2 MP40's
- 1 Vectra M
- 2 bulb T5
- ATO pump controlled by optical and float sensor
- Finnex heater controlled by temp probe
- External touch screen display for Profilx.
Things that are still pending, and need to be hooked up:
- second XR15 (will be moved once a replacement AI Prime HD is acquired to go on the nano).
- attach BRS media reactor
- attach BRS CO2 scrubber (if needed)
- program skimmer (potentially replace with a better one)
- acquire and attach fuge light
- figure out which additional probes to connect for monitoring
- move doser, once corals migrated to new tank
After running some of the lighting cables and plugging them in, I realized that the power blocks for the XR15s would be sitting on the ground, which I wanted to avoid in case of leakage. I purchased 2 more power block holders and attached them to the wall.
Likewise, I purchased another ATO container that will sit just to the side of the aquarium (previously planned to go there and the tank was measured to sit just to the right of it. (Don't worry about the large window, as a curtain is covering that area 99.99% of the time).
And how it sits with the curtain back in its place.
Next, I needed to attach the reflectors to the T5 bulbs. These reflectors were part of the T5 kit.
Lights on with the reflectors. (still only has one of the Radions).
Finally, I hooked up the second PAB power bar and ran some additional equipment to it (one being the temp ATO pump).
Also, I ran the cables and connected the touch screen for the Pofilux, but got too lazy that day and havent mounted to the wall yet.
Not included in the picture build, I also hooked up both of the MP40s and programmed them. Here is the close up of the tank as it looked this weekend
And here is the living room shot at night showing the blue glow from both tanks
As the tank sits now, here are the thing that are hooked up, programmed and working:
- 1 Radion XR15
- 2 MP40's
- 1 Vectra M
- 2 bulb T5
- ATO pump controlled by optical and float sensor
- Finnex heater controlled by temp probe
- External touch screen display for Profilx.
Things that are still pending, and need to be hooked up:
- second XR15 (will be moved once a replacement AI Prime HD is acquired to go on the nano).
- attach BRS media reactor
- attach BRS CO2 scrubber (if needed)
- program skimmer (potentially replace with a better one)
- acquire and attach fuge light
- figure out which additional probes to connect for monitoring
- move doser, once corals migrated to new tank
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ilyad
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Thank you! I appreciate the kind words.
Vahanyos
Valuable Member
It's coming along very nicely brother. Can't wait to see it with some livestock in there.
Also, I have a Chetomaxx Fuge light I won't be using since I won't be keeping a fuge with this new setup... You can have it if you'd like. It actually did fairly well with growing chaeto
Also, I have a Chetomaxx Fuge light I won't be using since I won't be keeping a fuge with this new setup... You can have it if you'd like. It actually did fairly well with growing chaeto
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ilyad
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Just noticed that the last two updates lost all of the pictures that were uploaded. Must have been due to the Tapatalk move as those were done through there. Have just reattached the photos through the mobile browser and everything should be working now.
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ilyad
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Just a very quick update today. On Friday I was able to get the deal of a lifetime when I bought a GHL Doser 2.1 with 4 pumps for only $150. I plan to use this doser to dose the 3 core elements (Alk, Ca, and Mag) and the 4th pump for my ATO. The 3 pump Stand alone will be paired up with a KH director down the line.
So the price was great, but the only downside was that the doser was a white versus while my Profilux and other doser is black.
Well, no biggie, I’ll just swap the lids so the one on the tank stand will be matching. That is the only difference visually (well, besides the back wall with the connectors, but whose gonna see that
)
First step is to remove the top cover and disconnect the light from the board.
Next, carefully remove the screws to the doser that is currently hooked up (power off!).
Next, spend 20 minutes trying to fish out a screw that fell into the tightly packed sump. Dry thoroughly.
Here is the old black lid removed.
White lid put on the old doser and the black one on to the new one (after a quick wipe down).
Old doser back in its place (now with a shiny white lid).
And the new doser up on the acrylic shelf on the big tank, now with matching top.
Later, the KH director and all the goodies needed for that will be placed in a remote shelving unit and so the color difference will not be visible there.
So the price was great, but the only downside was that the doser was a white versus while my Profilux and other doser is black.
Well, no biggie, I’ll just swap the lids so the one on the tank stand will be matching. That is the only difference visually (well, besides the back wall with the connectors, but whose gonna see that
)First step is to remove the top cover and disconnect the light from the board.
Next, carefully remove the screws to the doser that is currently hooked up (power off!).
Next, spend 20 minutes trying to fish out a screw that fell into the tightly packed sump. Dry thoroughly.
Here is the old black lid removed.
White lid put on the old doser and the black one on to the new one (after a quick wipe down).
Old doser back in its place (now with a shiny white lid).
And the new doser up on the acrylic shelf on the big tank, now with matching top.
Later, the KH director and all the goodies needed for that will be placed in a remote shelving unit and so the color difference will not be visible there.
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ilyad
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Special shoutout to this guy for hooking it up worth the light. It looks to be the right size that would work for the sump space I’ll be working with. Now just have to figure out a way I’ll mount it.
Vahanyos
Valuable Member
Sweet! Love the color it puts out too...
You can use some double sided tape and strap it to the side of the sump (or in front of it facing into your fuge). It should work since the original packaging included a velctro style strap if you didn't want to use the mount. Just a thought
You can use some double sided tape and strap it to the side of the sump (or in front of it facing into your fuge). It should work since the original packaging included a velctro style strap if you didn't want to use the mount. Just a thought
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ilyad
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Well, a quick little post today, and then more later. A friend of mine came over with a nice camera and took some pictures of the tank as it finished the cycle but before anything was added.
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ilyad
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Lets see... I guess it's time to do another update. Still not much going on, but continuing to do slow additions to the GHL system.
First and foremost, added the GHL doser to the custom made shelf. Rand the cables and the power supply to the back of the electronics panel. As designed, I was able to pull the panel out and add the cables in fairly easily.
Here it is in place, the doser and controller fit the shelf perfectly! Sorry for the dark picture, but still no light inside the stand.
While in the stand, I also re-routed the ATO sensor. The wire guides kept un-sticking from the stand (since its a bit of a rough surface). Now its attached to the lip of the sump which has good adhesion.
I also pulled out the sock and switched it to sheets of filter floss... these allow me to switch the filter a lot easier and quicker... who wants to mess with washing socks. The sump is slighly louder than with a sock in this way, but not enough to be an issue.
Prepping for the transfer of fish, I did a water change. You can see the canopy in action where it was super easy to turn it out of the way and access the tank.
Next was to introduce the first fish from the nano to the big tank, so I borrowed a small fish trap from my LFS.
Added the trap into the nano and left the tank alone to allow the fish to get used to the trap... the Cherry Wrasse was so curious it instantly went in without any food.
So I swooped him up and into the new tank he went. My parameters are almost identical in both tanks so a quick scoop and drop was enough. No acclimation needed.
First and foremost, added the GHL doser to the custom made shelf. Rand the cables and the power supply to the back of the electronics panel. As designed, I was able to pull the panel out and add the cables in fairly easily.
Here it is in place, the doser and controller fit the shelf perfectly! Sorry for the dark picture, but still no light inside the stand.
While in the stand, I also re-routed the ATO sensor. The wire guides kept un-sticking from the stand (since its a bit of a rough surface). Now its attached to the lip of the sump which has good adhesion.
I also pulled out the sock and switched it to sheets of filter floss... these allow me to switch the filter a lot easier and quicker... who wants to mess with washing socks. The sump is slighly louder than with a sock in this way, but not enough to be an issue.
Prepping for the transfer of fish, I did a water change. You can see the canopy in action where it was super easy to turn it out of the way and access the tank.
Next was to introduce the first fish from the nano to the big tank, so I borrowed a small fish trap from my LFS.
Added the trap into the nano and left the tank alone to allow the fish to get used to the trap... the Cherry Wrasse was so curious it instantly went in without any food.
So I swooped him up and into the new tank he went. My parameters are almost identical in both tanks so a quick scoop and drop was enough. No acclimation needed.
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