90g reef ready plumbing

[scabbedwings616]

I just acquired a reef ready tank and it's my first. I have a 1 inch drain and 3/4 return. I got the bulkheads but am confused on what to do next. I want to eventually hard plumb the tank but not to sure how. I want to get the tank going and want it done and get it running. What is the best thing to do. Yes patience is gonna have to wait for the plumbing but want to make that transition easier than harder. Any suggestions

 

[scabbedwings616]

 

[justingraham]

I can send u pics of my 90 if u want. U running a sump I presume?

 

[scabbedwings616]

Yes eshopp r200

 

[scabbedwings616]

Pics appreciated

 

[pdt7361]

What other equipment do you have....what kind of sump, skimmer, reactor, return pump, etc.
Basically the drain line from your stand pipe will drain into a sump and then your return pump will go from sump back into your overflow box via the 3/4" return. Now how it is all plumbed and what else happens between the two, depends on the rest of the equipment you have.

 

[scabbedwings616]

Reef Octopus VarioS-6 Controllable DC Circulation, bubble magus curve 7 protein skimmed, chiller, gfo reactor, carbon(every so often) reactor, ato, calcium reactor, uv 9w. Eshopp r-200.

 

[scabbedwings616]

I am in the process of setting this up just want to get it started and then eventually hard plumb it. Money isn't there to hard plumb it completely yet.

 

[scabbedwings616]

Do I uses slip or threaded, what's better or easier to maintain?

 

[justingraham]

Top of the tank left side drain right side return underneath the tank same as before left drain right return
I made my drain have a valve so I can do water changes easier. So I keep it locked until I do a water change. The bottom of the tee goes to a hose and then into the first part of my sump. it then goes thru my sump till the last chamber the float valve is for an ato the strain goes to my return pump. then from the return pump it goes back up to the 3/4 bulkhead return via a 3/4 hose. I'm going to put a manifold on there in between the quick disconnect and the check valve. That's the order I have it now quick disconnect then one way check valve then gate valve then 3/4 nipple then hose then bulkhead then pvc pipe to a penductor return head. The M1 in the back is a closed loop hooked up to two 3/4 sea swirls.
Hope this helps u
Justin

 

[justingraham]

I use slip it's a matter of preference and everything in the water I did not glue.

 

[scabbedwings616]

That's is very helpful. Threaded Union to ovc. I like the easier water changes!!! That I think is something I'll end up doing eventually. From what I can tell I'll need a lead from the bulkhead to the union but that I hope I can thread.

 

[justingraham]

The 3/4 bulk head that I bought had a "nipple" at the end of it to easily put a hose onto. The 1 inch I glued a pvc pipe into. Just be careful tho the first one I had wasn't a good fit and no matter how much glue I used it did not seal. So I had to go to a diffrent store and get a better quality bulkhead. And yes my weekly 12 gallon water change takes all of ten mins. Then once a month I vacume the sand. If u look I have a reactor and I'm going to try out the triton method so I'm going to grab another reactor and that's where the manifold will come in. So instead of two pumps running my reactors I will make a manifold off my return pump and use that power to power my reactors. But that only cause my pump is rated for like 1300 gallons an hour at six feet. It's a pump I had when I was going to set up my sump up in the basement. So if u can do that I recommend that as wel work smarter not harder.