93 Cube for under a grand. It can be done... I think. UPDATED GRAND TOTAL! :)

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dantimdad

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I am going to use the white box I got a great deal on. Not happy with the fan I put in it. It's louder than the original. I ordered a pair of fans from Newegg using credits I had and will install them. Whisper quiet and will move a bunch more air as well.

I am not going to directly modify the bulbs on this one. It's put together too nicely. I am, however, going to add a pair of DIY light bars on it that have more violets and dimmable moonlights.

It's amazing the crap I keep laying around for stuff like this. LOL!

I also have a plan of what I am going to do to make the light blend in better with the living room.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
 
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I have been trying for years to come up with a low cost, dimmable moonlight solution that didn't involve yet another driver and using very powerful leds. That is just a waste of money.

Also, I feel like most people run moon lights way too bright.

So, here is what I came up with as a test:

Parts list:

1 x LM317
1 x small heatsink for above
1 x 12 watt power supply of at least 500ma
1 x resistor (sizing below)
1 x 500 ohm 1/2 watt variable resistor
1-3 x 1/2 watt blue leds

So we need to determine how bright we want the leds to be at their brightest. A half watt led (the ones I bought on ebay) run 3.4 volts @ 175ma. I want to last a long time and not be nearly that bright as I will be running 3 of them total on my white box fixture so, I will run them @ 120ma total.

The LM317 puts out 1.25 volts between Vout and ADJ when looking at the front of the regulator:

lm317pinout.gif

By adding a resistor between these two pins you get constant current.

So, to calculate the resistor for the current we want we divide 1.25 by .120 = 10.41. Since you can't get a resistor that value easily, we will just use a 12Ohm 1 watt resistor to set the max brightness.

Now we could just leave it that and have 3 leds running at about 3/16 of a watt each but where's the fun in that?

So, now, we will add a variable resistor in series with the resistor we just calculated above.

variable_resistor.jpg

If you look at the far right tab that is where you connect ADJ and the resistor.

The center pin is where you connect the (+) leg of the resistor.

Now, the aggravating thing is (I will figure this out later) that turning the knob clockwise dims it. Which is the opposite of the way it should be. I think I need an antilog pot.

Now, connect the positive side of the 12 power supply to IN on the LM317 and the negative side of the power supply to the (-) leg of the LED.

Take time to make sure you have made good solder connections and not wires are touching that shouldn't be.

Now, take a deep breath and plug it in. Shazam! We have light!

Now, if you turn the knob it'll get dimmer or brighter.

Here is a test circuit with just one 10mm 1/2 watt led all the way up and all the way down:

Moon_bright.jpg

Moon_dim.jpg

I hope you found this useful.

Feel free to ask questions.

(I assume no liability for any damage that may occur from you building this circuit)
 

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I have been trying for years to come up with a low cost, dimmable moonlight solution that didn't involve yet another driver and using very powerful leds. That is just a waste of money.

Also, I feel like most people run moon lights way too bright.

So, here is what I came up with as a test:

Parts list:

1 x LM317
1 x small heatsink for above
1 x 12 watt power supply of at least 500ma
1 x resistor (sizing below)
1 x 500 ohm 1/2 watt variable resistor
1-3 x 1/2 watt blue leds

So we need to determine how bright we want the leds to be at their brightest. A half watt led (the ones I bought on ebay) run 3.4 volts @ 175ma. I want to last a long time and not be nearly that bright as I will be running 3 of them total on my white box fixture so, I will run them @ 120ma total.

The LM317 puts out 1.25 volts between Vout and ADJ when looking at the front of the regulator:

lm317pinout.gif

By adding a resistor between these two pins you get constant current.

So, to calculate the resistor for the current we want we divide 1.25 by .120 = 10.41. Since you can't get a resistor that value easily, we will just use a 12Ohm 1 watt resistor to set the max brightness.

Now we could just leave it that and have 3 leds running at about 3/16 of a watt each but where's the fun in that?

So, now, we will add a variable resistor in series with the resistor we just calculated above.

variable_resistor.jpg

If you look at the far right tab that is where you connect ADJ and the resistor.

The center pin is where you connect the (+) leg of the resistor.

Now, the aggravating thing is (I will figure this out later) that turning the knob clockwise dims it. Which is the opposite of the way it should be. I think I need an antilog pot.

Now, connect the positive side of the 12 power supply to IN on the LM317 and the negative side of the power supply to the (-) leg of the LED.

Take time to make sure you have made good solder connections and not wires are touching that shouldn't be.

Now, take a deep breath and plug it in. Shazam! We have light!

Now, if you turn the knob it'll get dimmer or brighter.

Here is a test circuit with just one 10mm 1/2 watt led all the way up and all the way down:

Moon_bright.jpg

Moon_dim.jpg

I hope you found this useful.

Feel free to ask questions.

(I assume no liability for any damage that may occur from you building this circuit)

Very nice. Where and how will you place it?


 
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dantimdad

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Thanks!

I am either going to drill 10mm holes in the case to the white box or I will build an add on UV bar and mount them in it. I haven't decided yet.

I am going to diffuse the white box for sure.

If I mount them in the white box, I won't need a heatsink for the regulator as I will mount it to the case. I probably don't need one anyway at the power I am drawing now.
 
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dantimdad

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BTW, I have enough parts to make 3 setups plus have extra resistors, pots and leds to boot for $17 total not counting the scavenged power supply.

You can find power supplies laying around the house or get them at thrift stores for $1 each usually.

Next DIY project I will post will be a relay actuated double float auto top off unit.
 
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dantimdad

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i know you have the skills to build one! any reason not going that route?

how did it break?

I could, but, the price of acrylic is prohibitive. It would cost nearly as much as a new one to buy the materials.

I was connecting two smaller sumps to make one via bulk head fittings. When I finished water testing, I disconnected them, picked one up and promptly caught my foot on the power cord to the pump I drained them with. I threw the one I was holding and landed on the smaller one. Not only did I shatter the one I threw, it scratched the hood of the Camry when it hit. :(

The little one I landed on and cracked three panels. I just chunked the pieces in the trash for pickup today. I am so upset with myself for making such a stupid mistake.
 
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I am actually going to do a 29 if I don't find a sump cheap in the next couple weeks.

I wanted water in the tank in two weeks but it won't happen if I don't sort out the sump quick.

Plus, even if I buy, I am still under budget.

:D
 
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While I await a sump miracle, I got the magnetic switches in from Amazon and was able to make it to where the stand lights come on when I open the front door of the stand. Pretty nifty if I do say so myself. ;)
 
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I am looking at nothing larger than 30.5" long that will handle 93 gallons.

Thanks for looking into it.

Luckily I wasn't hurt but it was not popular around here that I wasn't more careful. :D

BTW, The stand lights now go on and off no matter which door you open. Pretty happy with the way it worked out.
 
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