Abandoning Kalkwasser

[arking_mark]

I'm looking into using one... but respected reefers I follow suggest there are other approaches that are lower maintenance and that are simpler to implement. I'm sure there are many discordant views/experiences on this topic ;Wacky

If simple is dumping Kalk into ATO Reservoir or have a seperate Reservoir of Kalk then yes. Twenty years ago, I used a simple gravity drip from a jug.

However, now that I am moving back to using Kalkwasser, I want ultra low maintenance, so I decided on a gravity based Kalk reactor with a magnetic stirrer.
1. No pumps/sensors to clog. H2O is fed to the reactor which basically overflows to sump.
2. Only maintenance needed is the occasional addition of Kalkwasser (through a port) and cleaning a relatively small container every month or so.

 

[Acroalan]

I do the same as arking_mark (above). A dosing pump pulls ro/di water from my top off reservoir and feeds it into a gravity based magnetic stirrer which dumps kalkwasser into my sump through a 1/2" line. The big line is not going to clog easily and no pumps touch the kalkwasser to worry about clogging. I just refresh the stirrer and clean it periodically. I already have a ro/di reservoir sitting there with my ATO, so it just also feeds the kalk dosing setup too.

 

[Vette67]

If simple is dumping Kalk into ATO Reservoir or have a seperate Reservoir of Kalk then yes. Twenty years ago, I used a simple gravity drip from a jug.

That’s me. Been dosing kalk this way for so long I don’t know any other way. I mix 5 gallons at a time then drip it through essentially an IV drip line into my sump. It’s a little more work manually mixing the kalk water, but it should always be fully saturated. And within 30 minutes, it is all settled out anyway. Then every month or 2, I clean out the mixing tank and throw out the sludge.

Old school all the way, but still effective...

 

[ReefBeta]

FWIW, many people assume that kalk stirrers deliver saturated limewater. Then when they measure thee potency, they find it s not true.

How do I test if the limewater out of stirrer is saturated? Dilute it and test for alk? Can you give some instructions?

 

[Betex]

2 reasons.
1) The primary reason is because it helps keep my pH elevated. I have 4 kids and 2 dogs in the house so pH runs low on its own.
2) Kalk is much cheaper than solely using 2 part. Additionally without kalk to keep pH elevated, I have to run a CO2 scrubber and the media isn’t cheap.

I switched from Kalk to Randy's 2-part with sodium hydroxide and will never look back, ph is more stable and way higher than before and not to mention no cleaning up, the components are pretty cheap too.

 

[jorwill]

I am abandoning the use of kalkwasser. I was using it in my ATO along with 2 part to maintain Cal/Alk. However, the precipitant buildup specifically on my return pump and my ATO sensor (tunze osmolator) is causing major problems.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong and that's causing the excessive build up, I'm not sure, but at this point it's not worth it any longer!

Another interesting point. I started using JUST ro/di in my ATO (no kalk) and my Alk continued to climb. I was at roughly 1.5 tsp/g so I wasn't using over the max recommended.

Anyway. I'm done using it for now!

Test your RODI water's alk. I saw someone elses thread awhile back and they couldnt find a reasoning and ended up testing their alk from their RODI and their water fluctuated quite a bit without any salt.

 

[Midrats]

A still reservoir is the way to go. Stir it once. Let it settle. Dose it with a peristaltic pump in small amounts into fast moving water. Nothing comes into contact with the solution except the tubing. I never clean my reservoir, I just add more kalk and water. It's easy and tidy. The only place I get a little precipitate is at the terminus of the tubing which I squeeze once a month or so to dislodge any build up.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

How do I test if the limewater out of stirrer is saturated? Dilute it and test for alk? Can you give some instructions?

Yes, you can do that. Saturated is about 808 ppm calcium and 114 dKH at 25 deg C.

The easiest way is by conductivity. Saturated limewater is about 10.3 mS/cm at 25 deg C. I monitored it in real time as I mixed my reservoirs.

Crudest way is by pH. Since calibration is poor at this high end, measure pH in truly saturated limewater (say, 1 tablespoon stirred in one cup RO/DI. Cloudy is fine. Then, after rinsing the probe in RO/DI, compare that to the effluent pH. A drop of 0.3 pH units is about half potency.

True pH of saturated limewater at 25 deg C is 12.54. The pH is substantially higher at lower temperature (12.627 at 20ºC and 13.00 at 10ºC), and lower at higher temperature (12.289 at 30ºC; 11.984 at 40ºC)

 

[Ross Petersen]

If simple is dumping Kalk into ATO Reservoir or have a seperate Reservoir of Kalk then yes. Twenty years ago, I used a simple gravity drip from a jug.

However, now that I am moving back to using Kalkwasser, I want ultra low maintenance, so I decided on a gravity based Kalk reactor with a magnetic stirrer.
1. No pumps/sensors to clog. H2O is fed to the reactor which basically overflows to sump.
2. Only maintenance needed is the occasional addition of Kalkwasser (through a port) and cleaning a relatively small container every month or so.

A gravity fed ATO (with perhaps kalk and a stirrer) seems like a great and reliable low maintenance, and cost, option. Simple cleaning of the float valve with RODI. That said, I'm not keen on dosing kalk into the return chamber, as my understanding is the return pump's lifespan may drop a bit.

 

[ReefBeta]

Yes, you can do that. Saturated is about 808 ppm calcium and 114 dKH at 25 deg C.

The easiest way is by conductivity. Saturated limewater is about 10.3 mS/cm at 25 deg C. I monitored it in real time as I mixed my reservoirs.

Crudest way is by pH. Since calibration is poor at this high end, measure pH in truly saturated limewater (say, 1 tablespoon stirred in one cup RO/DI. Cloudy is fine. Then, after rinsing the probe in RO/DI, compare that to the effluent pH. A drop of 0.3 pH units is about half potency.

True pH of saturated limewater at 25 deg C is 12.54. The pH is substantially higher at lower temperature (12.627 at 20ºC and 13.00 at 10ºC), and lower at higher temperature (12.289 at 30ºC; 11.984 at 40ºC)

What do you use to monitor conductivity? Is those TDS/conductivity pen sold on Amazon? I wonder if there is conductivity that plugs in pH port in Apex or Hydros.

I just tested the solution in the kalk stirrer. 1ml + 9ml RO. Got 11.3 dkh. So it's basically saturated, right?

 

[Cbones1979]

I’m using a small bucket w kalk

noticed the top off and I think my puppy may have sipped some...doesn’t appear to be having issues but anyone have this ever happen?
I’d imagine its dangerous?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I’m using a small bucket w kalk

noticed the top off and I think my puppy may have sipped some...doesn’t appear to be having issues but anyone have this ever happen?
I’d imagine its dangerous?

Don't let anyone sip it. The pH is high enough to substantially irritate the mouth/throat. Once neutralized in the stomach, there are no ongoing concerns except what it may have irritated on the way down.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

What do you use to monitor conductivity? Is those TDS/conductivity pen sold on Amazon? I wonder if there is conductivity that plugs in pH port in Apex or Hydros.

I just tested the solution in the kalk stirrer. 1ml + 9ml RO. Got 11.3 dkh. So it's basically saturated, right?

If that value is before taking the dilution into account, then the limewater has a potency of about 113 dKH, which is about saturated at 25 deg C.

A pen type meter mightt work, if it spans the right conductivity range (saturation is about 10.3 mS/cm). Better conductivity meters usually have a base unit, a cord, and a conductivity probe.

This picture from someone else is what I used for many years, an Orion model 128:

Tennessee - Orion model 128 conductivity meter

Orion model 128 conductivity meter with case, good working probe, and calibration fluid. Great for mixing saltwater. $125 shipped.

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Mike lavigne]

If that value is before taking the dilution into account, then the limewater has a potency of about 113 dKH, which is about saturated at 25 deg C.

A pen type meter mightt work, if it spans the right conductivity range (saturation is about 10.3 mS/cm). Better conductivity meters usually have a base unit, a cord, and a conductivity probe.

This picture from someone else is what I used for many years, an Orion model 128:

Tennessee - Orion model 128 conductivity meter

Orion model 128 conductivity meter with case, good working probe, and calibration fluid. Great for mixing saltwater. $125 shipped.

www.reef2reef.com

Randy, Do you still use an Orion EC Probe to test your Kalk Saturation? I am in the process of setting up a system and looking for a reliable probe pen or corded probe to buy.

T-

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Randy, Do you still use an Orion EC Probe to test your Kalk Saturation? I am in the process of setting up a system and looking for a reliable probe pen or corded probe to buy.

T-

I do not currently have a tank set up, but if I did, I would.

That said, most conductivity meters that can read in the 10 mS/cm range will be suitable.