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Most test kits have not changed in 20+ years and I doubt they are any more accurate than they were 40 years ago. The only difference is that with a Hanna you have a better calibrated eye interpreting the results and a false sense of accuracy. Today's test kits are no better or worse than the ones in the 70s. What is better is that we now have reference solutions available to test our own ability to use the kits.
Brahm did not advocate 0/0 he merely stated that 0/0 will not kill your coral which is true because 0/0 doesn't exist. The OP did not mention dinos so there is no reason to think his system is overrun with them unless he states otherwise. 0/0 is a red herring. Yes you want some nitrate and phosphate and too much is bad as well but the only way to truly have 0/0 is a sterile tank. Will your corals thrive if your kits read 0/0? No but they won't die in weeks either. 0/0 doesn't really exist.
I actually don't advocate ULN at all. I run tanks toward the dirty side of things. Like lots of stuff in the water, especially planktons and bacteria.You need to tell the hole story wend advocating for ULN, they got a large import export level, which will keep the coral feed, most tanks on this section only got export and little to no import that causes coral and microbes to starve slowly, you can’t just advocate for low nutrients without also mentioning that you are adding a lot of nutrients daily and removing them fast. Most people don’t know the difference and will assume that they just need to export hard and forget about the importance of adding nutrients.
edit: I did read an article recently that mentioned the evolution of test kits and accuracy over the years.
Sorry if I missed spell something, I wasn’t saying you were. If i come across the article i’ll post it here, it’s been a wile back.I actually don't advocate ULN at all. I run tanks toward the dirty side of things. Like lots of stuff in the water, especially planktons and bacteria.
Can you tell me where you read the article on test kits? I'd like to read it. I personally don't see any improvements in the kits other than maybe slightly better color comparison cards and some fancy convenience gadgets like titrators or comparison vials. The Saliferts I buy today look just like the ones I bought in the 2000s.
ThanksSorry if I missed spell something, I wasn’t saying you were. If i come across the article i’ll post it here, it’s been a wile back.
This is absolutely true. It is indeed much more complicated to give good advice. I was definitely premature in my suggestion. Thanks for the reminder to not help other people spend their money and time without adequate knowledge of what they really need.
8 years ago wend your tank was featured in that magazine, I would imagine that most test kits wouldn’t be as accurate as today, we live in a different time regarding reef tech. this kind of statement is really counterproductive for new comers to the hobby, advocating success on 0/0 is just irresponsible.
I would be surprised if dinoflagellates are already thriving in the op’s tank, that’s what 2021 brings wend your nutrients bottom out. If he doesn’t have them already is just a matter of time.
Any one of the ATO systems should work. Can't tell if you have a sump or not. If you don't have a sump you put the line in from the water reserve and float in the DT if you do in the sump.I just did my phosphates. .06 Hanna checker
I'm going to get a calcium & alk test kits tomorrow
Other test kits are only about 3 months old
The parameters are checked every other day usually. As they don't swing really at all. I do only check them at night when I get home from work.
How would an ATO work on a tank like this?
I attached a pic of the tank
Czoolander, don't be sorry. If we have similar issues
I was just going to say this and the lighting schedule attached looks like it’s lit at ~50% power. If you really only have 1 ai prime, that thing needs to be at 100% and raise it a bit and find a new light as soon as you can.An AI Prime on a 40G IM is underlit.
This post irks me. Lol sorry.Most ppl who pose your question about corals not doing well.... I think... comes down to the lineage of live rock they use.
If 90% of the LR was dry rock at one point and the other 10% was LR but came from like Petco.... you really haven't established great live bacteria in your tank.
I mean, you have nutrifying bacteria thst can be bought in a bottle. But I'm talking about dozens of strains of beneficial bacteria that can only come directly from the Ocean, not a bottle.
I think.... the most important and MOST OVERLOOKED step in setting up a Reef Tank is starting with LR from a LFS that can tell you they bought the LR from a Vendor who harvests LR out in the Gulf of Mexico or from Caribbean waters
LR that has lineage back to a direct source from the ocean is sooooooo important. I think its critical.
If all your LR came from a tank where none of it actually came DIRECTLY from an Ocean source, you have your answer why your tank is blaaaaah.
I actually don't advocate ULN at all. I run tanks toward the dirty side of things. Like lots of stuff in the water, especially planktons and bacteria.
Can you tell me where you read the article on test kits? I'd like to read it. I personally don't see any improvements in the kits other than maybe slightly better color comparison cards and some fancy convenience gadgets like titrators or comparison vials. The Saliferts I buy today look just like the ones I bought in the 2000s.
Sorry if I missed spell something, I wasn’t saying you were. If i come across the article i’ll post it here, it’s been a wile back.
So I made some changes in first week of November and the corals are responding in a good wayOk. To add. I top off with about 2 cups 16 oz of water twice a day. Morning and night.
I'll double check temp today. Going to borrow another thermometer.