So those of you who are dosing KALK. Are you also dosing anything else to keep your ALK and CAL levels up? Or will the KALK handle the demand?
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I only run kalk on my tank and my sps love it all I do is add a cup is brs kalk on my 35 gallon brute trash can ato reactor lol. And it works great my parameter stay stable. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 44 gallon trash can or bigger
After my last question gets answered i would love to change topics from dosing to reasons acros die.
For example, my aqua sd rainbow milli was doing well, then it lots its flesh at the tip and slowly peeled away down to the base. Why is that?
It wasnt at the top of scape(too much light), it was in good flow.
Was it due to the alk spike of 8.7dkh?
Was it due to stress?
Was it due to nutrients?
Was it due to PH?
I have lost a few acros over the pass 3months while others are doing well. So im still struggling to understand what make some acros live, while others die right next to it.
Any thoughts?
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Let me reword that, what are some things to check when:
Recedes from tip down
Recedes from base up
No polyps
Faded color
Skin peeling
Not encrusting
Not growing
STN
RTN
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Kalk is CaOH, so it tends to raise pH quite a bit. 2-part calcium supplement is CaCl which can increase salinity but not pH. Baking soda (most 2-part) doesn't move pH but baked baking soda (sodium carbonate) raises pH. Baking baking soda releases CO2 which is why cookies, etc., "swell" up.
Tip down is usually alkalinity in a ULNS. Base up and/or peeling can be many things, STN, RTN, even invasive sponges. Lack of PE is often some form of pest. Some others not mentioned are pale colors in montis is usually lack of potassium. Pastel colors is likely too low in nutrients. And there are other conditions too lengthy to get into here.
Yes. Kalk raises pH, maintains alk (but won't raise it) and precipitates po4.
Yes. Kalk raises pH, maintains alk (but won't raise it) and precipitates po4.
Iiluisii is right. Par meters have a tough time with LEDs. The issue I see with people that switch from MH to LEDs is that they want the tank to look the same as it did with halides so they over light it. SPS react differently to LEDs than MH and don't require as much light as you see with you eyes or a par meter. I had the same issue. Over lit my tank and had no growth or color. Par meter said I didn't have enough light so I added more and just exasperated the problem. Now I run about 50% and have great growth and color. Reduce your photo period and turn your lights down for a couple days and see what happens. Stop chasing a meter. Your corals will tell you what they like.
I should clarify: kalk won't directly raise alkalinity but when it reacts with CO2 in the atmosphere it will form carbonates which do raise alkalinity. Search for Randy Holmes-Farley's articles on alkalinity for a better explanation.