Adding tangs tomorrow...how can I increase oxygen?

CoralB

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Provided that the tank is cycled and Looking at the parameters I like to keep ammonia at 0 and nitrates under 20 , salinity between 1.024 and 1.026 . I have a mixed reef tank with a kole tang and a naso tang which do very well . Haven’t lost a fish in many years except when one jumped out in the middle of the night .any trace of ammonia I would take action to get it to zero with water change and bacteria used to help cycle the tank , I would first wait til ammonia is zero . Make sure you have enough bio material to handle the bio load , then enter the fish one at a time to make sure the tanks bacteria bed can handle the extra load and expand before adding the second . My naso tang eats nori , pellet , flake , and a assortment frozen foods such as fish eggs and mysis shrimp . When you do add a new fish , quarantine and make sure it’s clean and healthy before you add it to the show tank . Cleaner shrimp helps to . Just try to keep your perimeters steady and as far as oxygen I only run a skimmer and do water changes . Hope this helps
 
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Provided that the tank is cycled and Looking at the parameters I like to keep ammonia at 0 and nitrates under 20 , salinity between 1.024 and 1.026 . I have a mixed reef tank with a kole tang and a naso tang which do very well . Haven’t lost a fish in many years except when one jumped out in the middle of the night .any trace of ammonia I would take action to get it to zero with water change and bacteria used to help cycle the tank , I would first wait til ammonia is zero . Make sure you have enough bio material to handle the bio load , then enter the fish one at a time to make sure the tanks bacteria bed can handle the extra load and expand before adding the second . My naso tang eats nori , pellet , flake , and a assortment frozen foods such as fish eggs and mysis shrimp . When you do add a new fish , quarantine and make sure it’s clean and healthy before you add it to the show tank . Cleaner shrimp helps to . Just try to keep your perimeters steady and as far as oxygen I only run a skimmer and do water changes . Hope this helps
I tested ammonia again. I noticed the container was pretty foggy, so I used soap and water to wash it and to remove the film. After rinsing well, I dunk the container inside the tank to neutralize any possible tap water reading. Then I tested it again.
 

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T-J

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I tested ammonia again. I noticed the container was pretty foggy, so I used soap and water to wash it and to remove the film. After rinsing well, I dunk the container inside the tank to neutralize any possible tap water reading. Then I tested it again.
Wait, you put your testing vial INTO your tank??
While the chance of adding those chemicals into your tank may be slim, I advise against putting testing vials into your tank. You should use a dropper or pipette to add water to the vials.
 
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Miami Reef

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Wait, you put your testing vial INTO your tank??
While the chance of adding those chemicals into your tank may be slim, I advise against putting testing vials into your tank. You should use a dropper or pipette to add water to the vials.
I washed it with soap before dunking it into the tank. I just dipped the container in because I didn’t want tap water ammonia readings. I used the syringe to add the water.
 
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But I see what you are saying. Probably best to not add vials into tank. Will a bit of tap water affect test readings?
 
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Ohhh. I can just use a syringe with tank water to rinse it out too! That works as well! Thank you for teaching me!
 

vetteguy53081

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Acclimation will play an importance. As acclimation is completed, turn tank light to low or blue only and if you want to increase O2, add an airstone. Do not attempt to feed fish allowing it to explore the tank. Next day, you can resume light schedule and attempt a small feeding
 

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Yes tap water, soap, or just about anything has the ability to throw off your readings. assuming your test kit is accurate you should rinse your vials with R.O. Water and dry .
 
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I built an acclimation box. They will be inside there to adapt to water chemistry and so I can see if someone died...because previously fish would hide in the back and I wouldn’t be able to see why they would perish. I can also make sure they can easily get food!

image.jpg
 

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Separate quarantine tanks are better to use if you can because if your fish shows signs of disease and if you have to treat it then your only treating the smaller quarantine tank and not the large show tank also if the fish is sick it won’t transfer to the larger show tank
 
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I will set up a quarantine tank...but I have 3 tangs coming in 2 days...what’s the bare minimum size?
 
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Will I need the acclimation box if I quarantine the fish and see them eating? If not...that would be great...because it’s ugly and flimsy
 

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Through all my years of owning tanks the biggest thing I’ve learned is patience,keeping within perimeters ,then try to keep them as steady and stable as you can .
 

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i always drip acclimate my livestock over a two hour period .. My concern here is that your quarantine tank is not set up and cycled itself . Given that your fish are coming very soon . You might be taking a risk . Do you have a friend with a quarantine tank set up?? I have in the past in a pinch used seeded material from the sump to use in the filter of the quarantine tank . But it should be cycled enough to handle the fish load coming in .
 

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