Nitrates seem a bit high, I try to stay 0-5. My first time dealing with Mari's I killed a bunch. The only difference from my previous tank are lower nitrates and lowered alk to 8.
I know people suggest low light and high flow for incoming pieces, I don't follow that. I just float, Bayer dip(current tank water) and throw them anywhere not in front of the power heads. If a colony shows rtn within 24 hours there's a large chance it cannot be saved by fragging, dipping or gluing. I lose around 5%. I haven't had any issues cutting off the bases same day, most of the time they stay until a fragging day.
As pointed out, hand pick and be very selective about mariculture sps. Look for slight to full polyp extension. If the LFS tanks are not great for sps pick it up within 2-5 days of arrival. Do not buy anything with rtn/stn/dead patches. Inspect bases for bite marks. Any unhealthy acro will not transfer tanks well. Most mariculture brown out in the first couple weeks and take a couple moths to recover.
I know people suggest low light and high flow for incoming pieces, I don't follow that. I just float, Bayer dip(current tank water) and throw them anywhere not in front of the power heads. If a colony shows rtn within 24 hours there's a large chance it cannot be saved by fragging, dipping or gluing. I lose around 5%. I haven't had any issues cutting off the bases same day, most of the time they stay until a fragging day.
As pointed out, hand pick and be very selective about mariculture sps. Look for slight to full polyp extension. If the LFS tanks are not great for sps pick it up within 2-5 days of arrival. Do not buy anything with rtn/stn/dead patches. Inspect bases for bite marks. Any unhealthy acro will not transfer tanks well. Most mariculture brown out in the first couple weeks and take a couple moths to recover.
