Advice on Tank cycling

[Kaushik5916]

Hi Guys,

My tanks been on the cycle for little over a month now (19L Nano setup). It’s my first Salt water tank and I’m completely new to this hobby.

I’ve been doing things purely from the advice of my local Aquarium shop, but all of it doesn’t seem to be working out at all.

This is day 35 of the cycle and it seems like forever, I understand this is a hobby that needs allot of patience, but for a Nano tank of only 19L, does it take so long for the tank to be ready for the fishes?

I did a small 5% water change yesterday and added few new live rocks to the tank, do you guys think it was right of me to do that or not? (It was advised by my local Aquarium shop)

Checked for Salinity with a hydrometer which is roughly about 1.021 and Ammonia still remains at the same level as it was 10 days ago that is roughly 0.5mg/L (As shown on the images)

Things I’ve been doing:

- Added Stability after yesterday’s water change.
- Prior to yesterday’s water change, I used Aquaforest Bio S (1 drop every 2 days for about 2 weeks).
- Added few new live rocks to the tank yesterday (Removed one rock that was in the cycle from day 1).

I’m so confused at the moment, not sure what to do, what exact steps to take from here on.

Can someone please help me?
Please tell me what I did wrong, what I did right and what I should do next in order for my tank to be ready in next few days or weeks (please put them in pointers so I can follow the exact steps from here on)

Thanks in Advance :)

 

[Kmst80]

Are you testing for Nitrates? Do you have nitrates? Normally a tank that gets a continuous ammonia source should be cycled in 2 weeks if it has the biological filter media.
Real live rock from the ocean would cycle your tank immediately since there is all the bacterias needed for the nitrogen cycle in the rock.
If your newly added rock was for a prolonged time out of the water there might have been some die off causing a spike in ammonia.
Main thing is to test for nitrates and if you got nitrates showing your tank will have comleted the nitrogen cycle.

If you are using Api test kits do yourself a favor and get at least salifert test kits, Api is known to be unreliable.

 

[ReefQuestCorals]

Hi Guys,

My tanks been on the cycle for little over a month now (19L Nano setup). It’s my first Salt water tank and I’m completely new to this hobby.

I’ve been doing things purely from the advice of my local Aquarium shop, but all of it doesn’t seem to be working out at all.

This is day 35 of the cycle and it seems like forever, I understand this is a hobby that needs allot of patience, but for a Nano tank of only 19L, does it take so long for the tank to be ready for the fishes?

I did a small 5% water change yesterday and added few new live rocks to the tank, do you guys think it was right of me to do that or not? (It was advised by my local Aquarium shop)

Checked for Salinity with a hydrometer which is roughly about 1.021 and Ammonia still remains at the same level as it was 10 days ago that is roughly 0.5mg/L (As shown on the images)

Things I’ve been doing:

- Added Stability after yesterday’s water change.
- Prior to yesterday’s water change, I used Aquaforest Bio S (1 drop every 2 days for about 2 weeks).
- Added few new live rocks to the tank yesterday (Removed one rock that was in the cycle from day 1).

I’m so confused at the moment, not sure what to do, what exact steps to take from here on.

Can someone please help me?
Please tell me what I did wrong, what I did right and what I should do next in order for my tank to be ready in next few days or weeks (please put them in pointers so I can follow the exact steps from here on)

Thanks in Advance :)

First off welcome to r2r!

During your cycle I suggest to not perform any water changes or really mess with the tank other than testing. Also no pictures are showing on your thread. I will suggest the way I cycle tanks, this isnt the only method but if what you have been currently doing is not working and many additives on the market make promises but do not always fulfill them Going by what you have posted I do not see you using any type of ammonia source, also is the "live rock" truly rock that has been cycled and in a system? Or just dry rock sold to you as "live rock" this would help knowing how to help cycle your tank. Below iv posted how I cycle a dry rock tank, but same method can be used on live rock as well. But typically with live rock you have a small amount of die off during transportation and can used a bacteria like turbostart 900 or others I have listed below to help your tank cycle.

Here is how I perform a fishless cycle:

- Set up new tank using RODI (any chlorine/chloramine will kill the bacteria)
- Let fresh saltwater mix at least 24 hours so the PH has risen and wont affect the nitrifying bacteria you will be dosing. Low or high fluctuations in PH can affect the bacteria.
- DrTim's Ammonium Chloride Solution dosed to achieve 2ppm ammonia .
- I used Brightwell MicroBacter Start XLM but other great products such as Fritz TurboStart, DrTim's One & Only, ect.. Dose according to directions.
- After ammonia has started to drop and is under 1ppm or undetectable I dose ammonium chloride again to achieve 2ppm and should see the ammonia lower under 1ppm/undetectable within 24 hours which tells me the nitrifying bacteria are able to efficiently consume the ammonia.
- Once you have achieved 0 ammonia then you are ready for fish and can make a water change if needed.

Some have noticed high levels of Nitrate after this type of cycle, I have not seen this issue and Nitrate was under 20ppm within 1 week after cycle without any water change. This method took my tank 2 weeks to complete the ammonia cycle

 

[wasabi bean]

I mean i would say 1.021 is a touch on the low side of salinity which would mean any bacteria have to adjust to water conditions, i just tend to ghost feed the tank and add loads of beneficial bacteria from a bottle and that has always worked for me, also i keep my tanks at around 1.026

 

[Kaushik5916]

Are you testing for Nitrates? Do you have nitrates? Normally a tank that gets a continuous ammonia source should be cycled in 2 weeks if it has the biological filter media.
Real live rock from the ocean would cycle your tank immediately since there is all the bacterias needed for the nitrogen cycle in the rock.
If your newly added rock was for a prolonged time out of the water there might have been some die off causing a spike in ammonia.
Main thing is to test for nitrates and if you got nitrates showing your tank will have comleted the nitrogen cycle.

If you are using Api test kits do yourself a favor and get at least salifert test kits, Api is known to be unreliable.

Thanks for the response @Kmst80 :)
No, I’ve not been testing for any Nitrates as my local Aquarium dude here asked me to just test for Ammonia. But I’m going to take your advice and get a Nitrates test kit.

In terms of Filter media, it’s just a simple white sponge and the Media, that’s it. (Attached images of it)

 

[Kaushik5916]

First off welcome to r2r!

During your cycle I suggest to not perform any water changes or really mess with the tank other than testing. Also no pictures are showing on your thread. I will suggest the way I cycle tanks, this isnt the only method but if what you have been currently doing is not working and many additives on the market make promises but do not always fulfill them Going by what you have posted I do not see you using any type of ammonia source, also is the "live rock" truly rock that has been cycled and in a system? Or just dry rock sold to you as "live rock" this would help knowing how to help cycle your tank. Below iv posted how I cycle a dry rock tank, but same method can be used on live rock as well. But typically with live rock you have a small amount of die off during transportation and can used a bacteria like turbostart 900 or others I have listed below to help your tank cycle.

Here is how I perform a fishless cycle:

- Set up new tank using RODI (any chlorine/chloramine will kill the bacteria)
- Let fresh saltwater mix at least 24 hours so the PH has risen and wont affect the nitrifying bacteria you will be dosing. Low or high fluctuations in PH can affect the bacteria.
- DrTim's Ammonium Chloride Solution dosed to achieve 2ppm ammonia .
- I used Brightwell MicroBacter Start XLM but other great products such as Fritz TurboStart, DrTim's One & Only, ect.. Dose according to directions.
- After ammonia has started to drop and is under 1ppm or undetectable I dose ammonium chloride again to achieve 2ppm and should see the ammonia lower under 1ppm/undetectable within 24 hours which tells me the nitrifying bacteria are able to efficiently consume the ammonia.
- Once you have achieved 0 ammonia then you are ready for fish and can make a water change if needed.

Some have noticed high levels of Nitrate after this type of cycle, I have not seen this issue and Nitrate was under 20ppm within 1 week after cycle without any water change. This method took my tank 2 weeks to complete the ammonia cycle

Thanks for this Detailed response @ReefQuestCorals :)

I haven’t used any Ammonia Source, will get one from the list you posted.

I picked the live rocks from a well cycled system myself, they were in a tank which also had fishes in it, but then the rocks were out for quite few hours until I put them into my tank.

I used Bio S for beneficial Bacteria.

 

[ReefQuestCorals]

Thanks for this Detailed response @ReefQuestCorals :)

I haven’t used any Ammonia Source, will get one from the list you posted.

I picked the live rocks from a well cycled system myself, they were in a tank which also had fishes in it, but then the rocks were out for quite few hours until I put them into my tank.

I used Bio S for beneficial Bacteria.

You are welcome, if the rock was out for hours I would 100% treat this as a new tank with dry rock and ensure you are properly cycling the system. Also looks as you have ammonia? Never used that kit so im assuming that is showing ammonia seeing how cloudy it looks. So I would not buy anything to supplement, Im sure the die off from the rock you have added started your ammonia source.

I have not used that specific product for cycling a tank, but seems as what you are doing is not working as needed. I would recommend something such as turbostart 900 which you should see a cycled tank in 3-5 days. That is as long as your test kit is accurate, I have never used aqua one but may have your lfs test your water (one that does not use api) to ensure your on the right track. Also as recommended above salfert is a good brand test kit, red sea as well. Hanna would be most accurate but pricey

Other than that tank is looking great by the picture! Im sure you got this and will learn a lot from your first saltwater tank

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

The tank is cycled when ammonia and nitrite are zero and you have some measureable nitrates. There is no way to know if the tank is cycled without testing, you will need good test kits for this hobby, and you'll need to regularly keep track of your water parameters....don't get API.

 

[Kaushik5916]

Thanks for this Detailed response @ReefQuestCorals :)

I haven’t used any Ammonia Source, will get one from the list you posted.

I picked the live rocks from a well cycled system myself, they were in a tank which also had fishes in it, but then the rocks were out for quite few hours until I put them into my tank.

I used Bio S for beneficial Bacteria.

You are welcome, if the rock was out for hours I would 100% treat this as a new tank with dry rock and ensure you are properly cycling the system. Also looks as you have ammonia? Never used that kit so im assuming that is showing ammonia seeing how cloudy it looks. So I would not buy anything to supplement, Im sure the die off from the rock you have added started your ammonia source.

I have not used that specific product for cycling a tank, but seems as what you are doing is not working as needed. I would recommend something such as turbostart 900 which you should see a cycled tank in 3-5 days. That is as long as your test kit is accurate, I have never used aqua one but may have your lfs test your water (one that does not use api) to ensure your on the right track. Also as recommended above salfert is a good brand test kit, red sea as well. Hanna would be most accurate but pricey

Other than that tank is looking great by the picture! Im sure you got this and will learn a lot from your first saltwater tank

Completely understand what you say and thanks allot!! @ReefQuestCorals

Will have a proper water test done in a lfs, and thanks for the test kit Recommendations, will grab one straight away :)

 

[Kaushik5916]

The tank is cycled when ammonia and nitrite are zero and you have some measureable nitrates. There is no way to know if the tank is cycled without testing, you will need good test kits for this hobby, and you'll need to regularly keep track of your water parameters....don't get API.

All good mate, Thank you :)

 

[Kaushik5916]

I mean i would say 1.021 is a touch on the low side of salinity which would mean any bacteria have to adjust to water conditions, i just tend to ghost feed the tank and add loads of beneficial bacteria from a bottle and that has always worked for me, also i keep my tanks at around 1.026

Get it @wasabi bean , I test it using a Hydrometer, will get a Refractometer for more accurate readings.

 

[BeanAnimal]

- DrTim's Ammonium Chloride Solution dosed to achieve 2ppm ammonia .
- I used Brightwell MicroBacter Start XLM but other great products such as Fritz TurboStart, DrTim's One & Only, ect.. Dose according to directions.
- After ammonia has started to drop and is under 1ppm or undetectable I dose ammonium chloride again to achieve 2ppm and should see the ammonia lower under 1ppm/undetectable within 24 hours which tells me the nitrifying bacteria are able to efficiently consume the ammonia.
- Once you have achieved 0 ammonia then you are ready for fish and can make a water change if needed.

Unfortunately this method appears to be gaining traction lately, but it is overcomplicating something that should be simple and it’s causing unnecessary issues.

1 – Most bottled bacteria products are loaded with heterotrophs, not true nitrifiers.

2 – Once ammonia drops, it’s being processed. Period. Whether by heterotrophs or nitrifiers doesn't matter at that stage.

The real problem starts when people keep dumping in ammonia. The constant feeding fuels a heterotroph bloom that quickly overwhelms the limited nitrifiers. Eventually, the heterotrophs crash from lack of carbon or phosphate, and the nitrifiers never get established. The cycle stalls. People panic, dose more ammonia and bacteria, and repeat the same failure loop.

These “easy” cycling methods are making things harder. Just bring ammonia to 2ppm, let it drop — it doesn’t need to hit zero — add a fish. Feed it. The nitrogen cycle stabilizes naturally on its own.

 

[ScottJ]

Unfortunately this method appears to be gaining traction lately, but it is overcomplicating something that should be simple and it’s causing unnecessary issues.

1 – Most bottled bacteria products are loaded with heterotrophs, not true nitrifiers.

2 – Once ammonia drops, it’s being processed. Period. Whether by heterotrophs or nitrifiers doesn't matter at that stage.

The real problem starts when people keep dumping in ammonia. The constant feeding fuels a heterotroph bloom that quickly overwhelms the limited nitrifiers. Eventually, the heterotrophs crash from lack of carbon or phosphate, and the nitrifiers never get established. The cycle stalls. People panic, dose more ammonia and bacteria, and repeat the same failure loop.

These “easy” cycling methods are making things harder. Just bring ammonia to 2ppm, let it drop — it doesn’t need to hit zero — add a fish. Feed it. The nitrogen cycle stabilizes naturally on its own.

There is something to be said about the old 'throw a table shrimp in' method.

 

[Kmst80]

Thanks for the response @Kmst80 :)
No, I’ve not been testing for any Nitrates as my local Aquarium dude here asked me to just test for Ammonia. But I’m going to take your advice and get a Nitrates test kit.

In terms of Filter media, it’s just a simple white sponge and the Media, that’s it. (Attached images of it)

So here is the easy way of cycling a tank. Throw a shrimp,can be frozen one, in the tank. There is your ammonia source. Your sponge and matrix gets colonised with bacteria now. You test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as mentioned before. Get salifert test kits.
Once you see Nitrates above 0 and no ammonium your tank is cycled( normally around 2 weeks could be a bit quicker coz you got live rock)
Live rock is like a biological filtration too, the more the better.
No need to buy any more overpriced bottled bacteria products or ammonium in a bottle stuff. Instead of a shrimp you can use fish food too, just add a little each day. Once tank is cycled do a waterchange and get one or 2 fish, no more.

 

[Kaushik5916]

Thanks for the response @Kmst80 :)
No, I’ve not been testing for any Nitrates as my local Aquarium dude here asked me to just test for Ammonia. But I’m going to take your advice and get a Nitrates test kit.

In terms of Filter media, it’s just a simple white sponge and the Media, that’s it. (Attached images of it)

So here is the easy way of cycling a tank. Throw a shrimp,can be frozen one, in the tank. There is your ammonia source. Your sponge and matrix gets colonised with bacteria now. You test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as mentioned before. Get salifert test kits.
Once you see Nitrates above 0 and no ammonium your tank is cycled( normally around 2 weeks could be a bit quicker coz you got live rock)
Live rock is like a biological filtration too, the more the better.
No need to buy any more overpriced bottled bacteria products or ammonium in a bottle stuff. Instead of a shrimp you can use fish food too, just add a little each day. Once tank is cycled do a waterchange and get one or 2 fish, no more.

Thanks @Kmst80 :)

I’m just gonna do exactly what you’ve said. Throw in some fish food, give it about 10-15 days and keep testing for Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates as I go with a Salifert test kit, Too Ez. Haha :)

 

[Kmst80]

Thanks @Kmst80 :)

I’m just gonna do exactly what you’ve said. Throw in some fish food, give it about 10-15 days and keep testing for Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates as I go with a Salifert test kit, Too Ez. Haha :)

Test for all three each day. First you will see ammonia rising, then nitrite and later nitrate. Once Ammonia and Nitrite is 0 you will have a completed cycle. But even after the cycle is completed you will have to keep putting a source of ammonium in, usually this is happening with feeding your fish. If you wait longer with getting the first fish keep feeding the tank a little each day, that is to keep the beneficial bacteria feed.

For when you get your fish or corals you want the salinity probably a bit higher, especially for corals around the 34 to 35 ppt.(1.025-1.026)

And a little tip for the future. Do your research, read as much about reefkeeping as you can. Then you still can ask questions you have no answer for. And don't believe everything the guy at the Lfs tells you, remember they are in the business of selling you products. Your next homework would be to read about how to acclimate saltwater fish to your tank.

Good luck and let us know how that cycling panned out.

 

[Kaushik5916]

Hey @Kmst80 , Firstly thanks a lot for the advice mate, I just did my first testing (Salifert test kit) and got some interesting results. Will share the images below. Ammonia and Nitrites turned out to be almost 0 and Nitrates to 50 (As seen in the images)

Also did a Salinity test (Refractometer calibrated with Ro-Di water) and the results turned out to be 1.025.

Can you please tell me what next? Haha. And ya I’ve been putting in some fish food (Just a lil everyday to every 2 days).

Also, I’m not sure if the results for Nitrates is okay. Seems like it’s on the higher end, anything to do with that?

Images lined up 1) Ammonio 2) Nitrites 3) Nitrates.

 

[Kmst80]

Hey @Kmst80 , Firstly thanks a lot for the advice mate, I just did my first testing (Salifert test kit) and got some interesting results. Will share the images below. Ammonia and Nitrites turned out to be almost 0 and Nitrates to 50 (As seen in the images)

Also did a Salinity test (Refractometer calibrated with Ro-Di water) and the results turned out to be 1.025.

Can you please tell me what next? Haha. And ya I’ve been putting in some fish food (Just a lil everyday to every 2 days).

Also, I’m not sure if the results for Nitrates is okay. Seems like it’s on the higher end, anything to do with that?

Images lined up 1) Ammonio 2) Nitrites 3) Nitrates.

That tells me your tank is cycled. Bacteria converting the waste(ammonia) into nitrite and other bacteria convert it into nitrate.
50 ppm nitrate is starting to be a little high, you want to aim to keep nitrates under 20 probably.
Just do a 20 % waterchange( that should reduce nitrates to 40 ppm) and then do weekly waterchanges, if nitrates are on the high side do bigger waterchanges if not 10% a week will do.
Finally you are ready for your first fish.
Happy fish shopping this weekend.
Once
you have the first fish in your tank I would test for Ammonia and Nitrite for a few more times every couple of days but if they stay 0 you just need to test for nitrate weekly from now on.

 

[ScottJ]

Hey @Kmst80 , Firstly thanks a lot for the advice mate, I just did my first testing (Salifert test kit) and got some interesting results. Will share the images below. Ammonia and Nitrites turned out to be almost 0 and Nitrates to 50 (As seen in the images)

Also did a Salinity test (Refractometer calibrated with Ro-Di water) and the results turned out to be 1.025.

Can you please tell me what next? Haha. And ya I’ve been putting in some fish food (Just a lil everyday to every 2 days).

Also, I’m not sure if the results for Nitrates is okay. Seems like it’s on the higher end, anything to do with that?

Images lined up 1) Ammonio 2) Nitrites 3) Nitrates.

FWIW, reading the Salfert Nitrate test from the side, you divide the result by 10. This result would be about 5ppm nitrate. Easy to miss in the instructions.

 

[Kaushik5916]

Hey @Kmst80 , Firstly thanks a lot for the advice mate, I just did my first testing (Salifert test kit) and got some interesting results. Will share the images below. Ammonia and Nitrites turned out to be almost 0 and Nitrates to 50 (As seen in the images)

Also did a Salinity test (Refractometer calibrated with Ro-Di water) and the results turned out to be 1.025.

Can you please tell me what next? Haha. And ya I’ve been putting in some fish food (Just a lil everyday to every 2 days).

Also, I’m not sure if the results for Nitrates is okay. Seems like it’s on the higher end, anything to do with that?

Images lined up 1) Ammonio 2) Nitrites 3) Nitrates.

FWIW, reading the Salfert Nitrate test from the side, you divide the result by 10. This result would be about 5ppm nitrate. Easy to miss in the instructions.

Haha True, I just did another test yesterday n realised I had to divide the test result by 10 (if I’d taken the readings from side for more accuracy). Thanks for hitting up though @ScottJ