Again NO3/PO4; how increase/decrease; exact measurements?

Chepre01

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Hi guys, still kind of a beginner, trying now more to get into the materia in general.
Got from time to time different algaes and so on. Actually I never was measuring NO3/PO4 levels.

Since I v read now, it is also important to have general information about these levels.
Dont tant to talk now what values both should be, since I was reading that summarized that some run both pretty low and some pretty high, and it works for both examples since every reef tank is different. What I ve read is, that probably 5-15 ppm NO3 and 0.03 - 0.09 PO4 is probably a good entry point to start and see how it goes.

1. How often do you measure your NO3/PO4 levels? On a weekly base?
2. How do you test your NO3/PO4 levels? I m using at the moment red sea kit.
3. How can i accurate increase and decrease my levels? (except water changes)
4. Do you use a reactor (dont know if this is in english the correct translation) with phosphat absorber material?

I m thankful for any tipps, advice and maybe links to informative sources
 

DanyL

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1. Depends. If I notice a general issue with the tank, or an increased growth rate of algae I would immediately test all parameters, including nutrients as well. If I'm adjusting nutrients levels I would test them both every 2 to 3 days, and slowly drift back to my regular nutrient testing routine which is around once every 2 to 4 weeks.

2. I test my nitrates with Salifert, although Red Sea works fine as well. For Phosphates I found Hanna ULR checker to be more accurate and easy to read.

3. Accurately adjusting nutrients is done by slightly over exporting them using various methods (like bacteria, skimmers, binders, fuge, etc) and then fine tuning it with additives. Personally I dislike eyeballing with overfeeding, it isn't accurate, fuels the water and often cause unwanted fluctuations.

4. I use 2 kinds of reactors for nutrient control.

The first is a Biopellets reactor that consists of small plastic pellets. It provides a carbon source for new bacteria to cultivate, and the bacteria is then released right into the skimmers inlet to be exported out. Biopellets, much like Nopox and any other carbon source is mostly effective for nitrate removal, although it'll slightly decrease phosphates as well.

The second reactor I use is filled with GFO, which is an extremely effective binder that absorbs mostly phosphates. You need to be careful with it as it is fairly easy to overshoot and bottom out. Unlike Biopellets, you don't have to use a reactor with GFO, it can also be used in a media bag placed under a good current, however a reactor will significantly optimize the effectiveness of the media and allow more control over the rate at which it'll absorb phosphates by adjusting the flow.


While nutrient control comes useful at times, I highly advice you to not chase certain numbers, but instead to use these tools to keep the levels from fluctuating all over the place.
 

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