AI Hydra 26 HD Program

[joro]

I just recently introduced my first corals into a Red Sea Reefer 170 (24.5 x 20 x 20 inches) and looking for some guidance on ideal light settings. The light is 12 inches off the top of the water and I'm more heavy on LPS/Softies/Zoas right now but do have one SPS - a plating monti - which I also purchased. I might add more SPS near the top down the road but much prefer LPS, so who knows ;)

Currently I'm running a basic 8 hour program:

• 8AM - Noon: Ramp up
• Noon - 4PM: Peak (every channel is at 60% intensity)
• 4PM - 8PM : Ramp down

The corals have responded well to this schedule since I put them in on Saturday but it's only been 2 days, so it may be a fluke! One thing I really want is an hour or two of moon/blue only lighting primarily for the NPS which I'm hoping will come out during that period so I can feed without it being pitch back in the tank.

Thoughts, suggestions?

 

[Lenny_S]

This is the program I use with gret results on SPS, LPS, and Zoas...

You can download the profile here... https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Byl1iTuW5PcIMkJQME1LaVMydWM
... in the upper right there is an icon to download the file

Then you should be able to import it with the AI Director. It is a standard AI Hydra profile (not HD), but I believe it should convert for you.

Since the channels are set much higher than the ones you have now, you probably want to use the acclimation mode in "Effects" at like 40% reduction all channels for the next 30 days.

 

[joro]

This is the program I use with gret results on SPS, LPS, and Zoas....

Thanks for sharing! Just out of curiosity are these the ones running on your 160G tank in the signature? I'm just concerned that I may be baking everything at that high of a peak given everything is fully extended at 60% currently? :confused:

 

[Waboss]

I'm currently running this schedule on my Reefer 170:

It's set to 18K through the ramp/day/ramp periods and just 2% of RB at night with lunar effects turned on. Zoa's grow like crazy. My acans seem very happy, but not a lot of growth (probably due to me not target feeding like I should). My couple of SPS are doing well with good extension too.

 

[Lenny_S]

Thanks for sharing! Just out of curiosity are these the ones running on your 160G tank in the signature? I'm just concerned that I may be baking everything at that high of a peak given everything is fully extended at 60% currently? :confused:

Yes, that is the program I'm using on my 160 in my signature. I don't have any softies except for zoas, but I do have a number of LPS that are from 1/3 of the tank deep on down, I haven't put anything but SPS in the upper 1/3 of the tank but I have SPS all the way down to 6" above the sand.
I wouldn't want you to bake anything either. :) That's why I recommended you use the acclimation effect with a 40% reduction on all channels for 30 days. You could make it for 60 days even... the corals will adjust to the increased light level, it just has to be done slowly.
I also have my lights set 12" above the water line as you do. And with all 4 of them plus 2 strips I get about 350-400 PAR 6 inches down, and 300-350 PAR 12 inches down, 250-300 PAR 18 inches down and 175-200 PAR on the sand (24" down) measured with a PAR meter. None of those PAR measurements are very extreme... and keep in mind, I have a Hydra 26 9" in to center of light from the sides, and 14" to center between them (basically spaced 14" to center between each light). So I have them packed in there pretty tight, on your tank that would be like almost having 2. Since you only have one, I would guess that your PAR would not be as high as mine.
If you get part way through the acclimation mode and see that things aren't looking as good, then maybe stop it there and adjust the light back down a touch and make those your constant settings. But your coral will likely be fine.

 

[joro]

Yes, that is the program I'm using on my 160 in my signature. I don't have any softies except for zoas, but I do have a number of LPS that are from 1/3 of the tank deep on down, I haven't put anything but SPS in the upper 1/3 of the tank but I have SPS all the way down to 6" above the sand.
I wouldn't want you to bake anything either. :) That's why I recommended you use the acclimation effect with a 40% reduction on all channels for 30 days. You could make it for 60 days even... the corals will adjust to the increased light level, it just has to be done slowly.
I also have my lights set 12" above the water line as you do. And with all 4 of them plus 2 strips I get about 350-400 PAR 6 inches down, and 300-350 PAR 12 inches down, 250-300 PAR 18 inches down and 175-200 PAR on the sand (24" down) measured with a PAR meter. None of those PAR measurements are very extreme... and keep in mind, I have a Hydra 26 9" in to center of light from the sides, and 14" to center between them (basically spaced 14" to center between each light). So I have them packed in there pretty tight, on your tank that would be like almost having 2. Since you only have one, I would guess that your PAR would not be as high as mine.
If you get part way through the acclimation mode and see that things aren't looking as good, then maybe stop it there and adjust the light back down a touch and make those your constant settings. But your coral will likely be fine.

Appreciate the additional insight and good recommendations. In our 90G reef we've had a habit of baking corals unfortunately due to some second-hand LEDs which I think need to be replaced soon enough and only allow rudimentary control of 2 channels. Don't get me wrong, I'm loving the controllability of the Hydra but also a bit overwhelmed by the options with so many channels, etc. I'll give yours a try and see where we get! Out of curiosity, is the "best practice" to run the acclimation mode every time we add a new coral? It would seem theoretically that it may hurt the existing corals who have gotten adjusted to one intensity and now have another 30-60 days of lower intensities during acclimation of another one. Thoughts?

 

[Lenny_S]

I'm currently running this schedule on my Reefer 170:

It's set to 18K through the ramp/day/ramp periods and just 2% of RB at night with lunar effects turned on. Zoa's grow like crazy. My acans seem very happy, but not a lot of growth (probably due to me not target feeding like I should). My couple of SPS are doing well with good extension too.

I find Acans can take quite a lot of light, and I don't do any target feeding. Here is min 10" below the water...
From January 2016

From Sept 2016

 

[Waboss]

I find Acans can take quite a lot of light, and I don't do any target feeding. Here is min 10" below the water...
From January 2016

From Sept 2016

Yep, I've seen the same thing, some can take a lot of light, some not so much (no matter how much acclimating I do). Most of mine are in the middle/front on the tank but lower, closer to the bottom (so right under the Hydra).

 

[lariat8099]

Can I use the same set up on my 40 gallon reef that has a Radion 30pro on it? Or what setting would you recommend for a Zoa and a few LPS i.e. Frogspawn. And hammer and a toadstool. Any help is desired. Thanks

 

[Willy315]

I just recently introduced my first corals into a Red Sea Reefer 170 (24.5 x 20 x 20 inches) and looking for some guidance on ideal light settings. The light is 12 inches off the top of the water and I'm more heavy on LPS/Softies/Zoas right now but do have one SPS - a plating monti - which I also purchased. I might add more SPS near the top down the road but much prefer LPS, so who knows ;)

Currently I'm running a basic 8 hour program:

• 8AM - Noon: Ramp up
• Noon - 4PM: Peak (every channel is at 60% intensity)
• 4PM - 8PM : Ramp down

The corals have responded well to this schedule since I put them in on Saturday but it's only been 2 days, so it may be a fluke! One thing I really want is an hour or two of moon/blue only lighting primarily for the NPS which I'm hoping will come out during that period so I can feed without it being pitch back in the tank.

Thoughts, suggestions?

If you are not using acclimation mode, I would suggest using it and set it for at least a month.

 

[joro]

Got the new program added and with a 40% reduction through Acclimation Mode for the next 30 days. Will let you all know how it progresses and appreciate all the suggestions/insight! :)

 

[Lenny_S]

Can I use the same set up on my 40 gallon reef that has a Radion 30pro on it? Or what setting would you recommend for a Zoa and a few LPS i.e. Frogspawn. And hammer and a toadstool. Any help is desired. Thanks

The programs and channel settings don't map directly between Hydra and Radion Pro. For example the Hydra 26 uses 8 white to 10 blue (total all blues), but the Radion XR30pro uses 10 white (8 cool and 2 neutral) to 16 blue (total all blues). There are also big differences in the number of violet and "UV" (not true UV more like a hyper violet).
I don't personally have any Radion lights, but from reading, I would say that to get the same approximate color temp of 14K in my program, your cool white channel and both the blue channels should be at the same level. I would use the neutral white channel very sparingly. My best guess would be to have the violet channel level same as blue, maybe less, but the UV channel to be less than all of those by like maybe 20%. Lastly I'd say the green channel at like 30% and the red channel at like 10%.
Best I can tell, that would get you close to what the profile I have on your Radion.