Algae of Concern?

[MattR]

Was looking at my tank extremely closely today and noticed hair like/turf like algae on the rocks. Tank is about 5 years old with LPS and soft corals. Is this something I should tackle/be concerned about or see how the tank continues to mature? Should I beef up my clean up crew? If so what?

Last week, the parameters were:
Alk 7.5
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0.26
Temp 79.6

 

[Subsea]

5 years is mature.

A tooth brush with peroxide eliminates GHA. If I was to have to guess, I would say

Bryopsis pennata and B. plumosa​

“Some of the hardest to remove species of macroalgae encountered in the hobby are B. pennata and B. plumosa. These two species have noticeable discernible midribs (center portion of the algae), that are wider than their branches. They are fast growing, and form a mat like root system on the rocks. Algae that grows from mats, instead of singular holdfasts, are harder to remove if they spread in your tank. This is due to the tedious work that is required to remove all of the algae from the surface it is growing on. Any piece that remains will likely continue growing.”

“B. pennata (pictured on the left) has irregular and more sparse branching than its closely related cousin B. plumosa which has more symmetrical and fuller branching. (picture coming)There are many, many species of Green Hair Algae that have feathery branching, and are not necessarily members of the Bryopsis genus, nevermind B. pennata and B. plumosa. Simply because the hair algae in your system has branches does not mean it is one of these algae species.”

“Sea hares, nudibranchs, urchins, Emerald Crabs, chitons, and even the larger Astraea tuberwill eat both of these species, but often do not consume it faster than it can grow, or the algae lingers half eaten. Pitho Crabs are effective at fully removing Byropsis.”

The maroon stuff next to it looks like Cyanobacteria

 

[EnterName]

Bryopsis pennata and B. plumosa

“Some of the hardest to remove species of macroalgae encountered in the hobby are B. pennata and B. plumosa. These two species have noticeable discernible midribs (center portion of the algae), that are wider than their branches. They are fast growing, and form a mat like root system on the rocks. Algae that grows from mats, instead of singular holdfasts, are harder to remove if they spread in your tank. This is due to the tedious work that is required to remove all of the algae from the surface it is growing on. Any piece that remains will likely continue growing.”

“B. pennata (pictured on the left) has irregular and more sparse branching than its closely related cousin B. plumosa which has more symmetrical and fuller branching. (picture coming)There are many, many species of Green Hair Algae that have feathery branching, and are not necessarily members of the Bryopsis genus, nevermind B. pennata and B. plumosa. Simply because the hair algae in your system has branches does not mean it is one of these algae species.”

“Sea hares, nudibranchs, urchins, Emerald Crabs, chitons, and even the larger Astraea tuberwill eat both of these species, but often do not consume it faster than it can grow, or the algae lingers half eaten. Pitho Crabs are effective at fully removing Byropsis.”

Source for those who are interested in reading more: https://www.reefcleaners.org/nuisance-algae-id-guide


I personally cannot see the fern-like structure that both B. pennata and B. plumosa have in OP's images, but algae identification can be really difficult sometimes, and I'm not saying I know better.

From what I know Cladophora sp. likes to form these turfs or cushion-like growths with a bit tougher strands. In this case Julian Sprung recommends in his booklet "Algae - A Problem Solver Guide":

• Keeping alkalinity above 8 dKH
• Phosphate export or adsorbing media (Randy recommends GFO over aluminum based adsorbers)
• Herbivores (namely Surgeonfish, Rabbitfish, Diadema Urchin, Tuxedo Urchin, Mithraculus crabs)

 

[Subsea]

Source for those who are interested in reading more: https://www.reefcleaners.org/nuisance-algae-id-guide


I personally cannot see the fern-like structure that both B. pennata and B. plumosa have in OP's images, but algae identification can be really difficult sometimes, and I'm not saying I know better.

From what I know Cladophora sp. likes to form these turfs or cushion-like growths with a bit tougher strands. In this case Julian Sprung recommends in his booklet "Algae - A Problem Solver Guide":

• Keeping alkalinity above 8 dKH
• Phosphate export or adsorbing media (Randy recommends GFO over aluminum based adsorbers)
• Herbivores (namely Surgeonfish, Rabbitfish, Diadema Urchin, Tuxedo Urchin, Mithraculus crabs)

“I personally cannot see the fern-like structure.” Neither did I. No matter the name. The solution is normally the same. Get some proper herbivores. I have not found that nutrient management made much difference dealing with GHA.

 

[EnterName]

I have not found that nutrient management made much difference dealing with GHA.

You won't starve out any algae without also starving out your corals, so your observation is very logical. Nutrient management is just to slow down the algae growth so herbivores can catch up with it.

 

[MattR]

“I personally cannot see the fern-like structure.” Neither did I. No matter the name. The solution is normally the same. Get some proper herbivores. I have not found that nutrient management made much difference dealing with GHA.

You won't starve out any algae without also starving out your corals, so your observation is very logical. Nutrient management is just to slow down the algae growth so herbivores can catch up with it.

Thank you both for your help! I think for now I will do slightly larger water changes, get some more algae eaters (only a 25 gallon) and scrub and siphon when doing a water change

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Thank you both for your help! I think for now I will do slightly larger water changes, get some more algae eaters (only a 25 gallon) and scrub and siphon when doing a water change

That is a good plan! That should take care of your algae issues

 

[EnterName]

“I personally cannot see the fern-like structure.” Neither did I. No matter the name. The solution is normally the same. Get some proper herbivores. I have not found that nutrient management made much difference dealing with GHA.

You won't starve out any algae without also starving out your corals, so your observation is very logical. Nutrient management is just to slow down the algae growth so herbivores can catch up with it.

Thank you both for your help! I think for now I will do slightly larger water changes, get some more algae eaters (only a 25 gallon) and scrub and siphon when doing a water change

Water changes can feel very ineffective against phosphate levels because there is an ongoing equilibrium reaction between phosphate bound to calcium carbonate (rockscape & subtrate) and dissolved phosphate. The moment you change water bound phosphate will dissolve to balance the equilibrium again. Adsorbers (preferably GFO) work better and are more cost effective in the end.

 

[MattR]

Water changes can feel very ineffective against phosphate levels because there is an ongoing equilibrium reaction between phosphate bound to calcium carbonate (rockscape & subtrate) and dissolved phosphate. The moment you change water bound phosphate will dissolve to balance the equilibrium again. Adsorbers (preferably GFO) work better and are more cost effective in the end.

Okay, thanks for the info, will probably get chemipure blue since I used that in previous tanks with success

 

[EnterName]

Okay, thanks for the info, will probably get chemipure blue since I used that in previous tanks with success

Chemipure blue looks like activated charcoal, which is better in removing organics than phosphate.

You can use GFO from BRS, D-D RowaPhos, Fauna Marin Phos 0.04 (which ensures phosphate will not be adsorbed below 0.04ppm), and other products.

 

[MattR]

Okay, I will look into it. Thank you so much

Chemipure blue looks like activated charcoal, which is better in removing organics than phosphate.

You can use GFO from BRS, D-D RowaPhos, Fauna Marin Phos 0.04 (which ensures phosphate will not be adsorbed below 0.04ppm), and other products.

 

[MattR]

Chemipure blue looks like activated charcoal, which is better in removing organics than phosphate.

You can use GFO from BRS, D-D RowaPhos, Fauna Marin Phos 0.04 (which ensures phosphate will not be adsorbed below 0.04ppm), and other products.

What would you reccomend to throw in the sump as media? Not as a reactor?

 

[EnterName]

What would you reccomend to throw in the sump as media? Not as a reactor?

You can put phosphate adsorbers in a reactor or in filter socks/cups it doesn't matter too much, but I would add some filter floss on top just to keep it a bit cleaner.

Use the adsorber material according to the instructions or you risk depleting it too fast which appears to stress corals.

If you have additional space in a reactor or so you can use whatever you like. Activated charcoal won't hurt and if you see something struggling you can still remove it. Note that activated charcoal and GFO will also remove some trace elements so you might want to get an ICP-MS test once phosphate levels are "back to normal" and you might want to dose an ever so slightly bit more of your trace element solutions (if you are using any).

 

[MattR]

You can put phosphate adsorbers in a reactor or in filter socks/cups it doesn't matter too much, but I would add some filter floss on top just to keep it a bit cleaner.

Use the adsorber material according to the instructions or you risk depleting it too fast which appears to stress corals.

If you have additional space in a reactor or so you can use whatever you like. Activated charcoal won't hurt and if you see something struggling you can still remove it. Note that activated charcoal and GFO will also remove some trace elements so you might want to get an ICP-MS test once phosphate levels are "back to normal" and you might want to dose an ever so slightly bit more of your trace element solutions (if you are using any).

I understand now, Ill probably use D-D rowaphos and throw it in the media cup under my filter floss. Ill dose appropriately from there. Thanks again