Alk swingn at WC... need to test alk almost everyday (ocd) should i change salt

Patx

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Hi,
Reefcrystal... 1.026 and ~13dkh
Tank, 1.025 dosing AFR. Alk~ 9dkh
After a WC ... ALK 9,4....
WC ~10% /week

TANK, zoa, monti.
I just want stability, no precise target in mind... 8...9dkh its a good range i think.
Each WC crank up my alk... (see graph)
I find the alk consommation...

Should i change for a 8~9dkh salt. (Stable graph)
Or back down the AFR dose ? ( nice curv bumpy graph)
Screenshot_20231023_182132_AquaticLog.jpg
 

rtparty

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It makes very little difference. Our test kits (including human error) can barely tell the difference between 9 and 9.4dkh reliably.

There are many reasons I don’t care for Reef Crystals (high alkalinity being one), if your tank is happy I wouldn’t switch just because of the slight alkalinity bump after a WC.

However, I would switch to a salt that matches your parameters better.
 
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Patx

Patx

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It makes very little difference. Our test kits (including human error) can barely tell the difference between 9 and 9.4dkh reliably.
Im in the same boat...
But i think i manage the "human" error the more i can.
Ain't going whit ml on hanna alk kit... too much variability.
I always use a scale... 10gr water, 1gr regent.
My number can be inaccurate du to test% and scale calibration 0.01..0.03g)
but i can follow the patern pretty well (i suppose)

Anyway thk to you two, you just confirm my choice.
 

rtparty

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Screenshot_20231023_192145_Firefox.jpg

Im searching available salt and dkh matching in my region.


I have a much more updated chart

 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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IMO, it is easy enough to do any of these:

1. Stop AFR and see if alk stabilizes.
2. Use a salt mix with a lower alk.
3. If you like Reef Crystals, lower the alk in it before use.
 

homer1475

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If you like RC, then just use a mineral acid to bring the alk down to your preferred level.

Been doing that way for many, many years with purple box to bring it down to 7.
 

Js.Aqua.Project

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So maybe I'm missing something here...

Is your tank happy? That should be your biggest and most pressing question. Do the corals look happy and healthy? Are they growing and showing normal coloration? Any signs of stress?

If your tank is doing well this is when the "chasing numbers" argument gets brought up by some people. Meaning you've picked a number first then are trying to adjust to that number.

I operate with the simple philosophy for parameters of: pick a salt - then keep and test all parameters to match the salt - not the other way around.

For example, I happen to prefer Red Sea Coral Pro with its higher values in my 240gal mixed reef. So I tune my calcium reactor and will do any other needed supplemental dosing (vary rare because of the reactor) to maintain that salt's values of 11.5 dKH, 450 Ca, and 1350 Mag. This, in my mind at least, it much simpler than choosing the parameters first then having to dose/adjust everything else around those numbers.

This method also helps eliminate swings in numbers in the tank when you do water changes as you're replenishing with water that is the same as what you're removing (minus the NO3 and PO4 hopefully).
 

homer1475

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So maybe I'm missing something here...

Is your tank happy? That should be your biggest and most pressing question. Do the corals look happy and healthy? Are they growing and showing normal coloration? Any signs of stress?

If your tank is doing well this is when the "chasing numbers" argument gets brought up by some people. Meaning you've picked a number first then are trying to adjust to that number.

I operate with the simple philosophy for parameters of: pick a salt - then keep and test all parameters to match the salt - not the other way around.

For example, I happen to prefer Red Sea Coral Pro with its higher values in my 240gal mixed reef. So I tune my calcium reactor and will do any other needed supplemental dosing (vary rare because of the reactor) to maintain that salt's values of 11.5 dKH, 450 Ca, and 1350 Mag. This, in my mind at least, it much simpler than choosing the parameters first then having to dose/adjust everything else around those numbers.

This method also helps eliminate swings in numbers in the tank when you do water changes as you're replenishing with water that is the same as what you're removing (minus the NO3 and PO4 hopefully).
Couldn't agree more.

My only caveat, is I choose regular purple box IO because of price. So I simply "doctor" my NSW to match my tank.

If cost isn't a factor, then buying a salt to match the numbers you want to keep, or just ruinning the tank with the parameters the salt mixes to is the best way to go.
 

hexcolor reef

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It doesn’t matter which salt you would switch to. All for Reef will boost your Alk. For every 2.5ml of All For Reef / 20 gallons of water it will raise Alk by 2kh.
You need to make sure your corals are consuming enough Alk before using All for Reef.
Also if your dosing AFR 5ml / 20gallons all at once it will definitely raise Alk instantly. Instead it should be dosed in small increments of .5ml

1.) make sure you have a tank fully stocked with coral that is consuming Alk about 1-2kh / day (before AFR is being used)
2.) dose AFR is smaller increments
 
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fishyjoes

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Another option that hasn't been mentioned yet would be to do a small daily water change (like 2% per day) instead of a large water change once a week. Break the big hump down into several small humps.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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So maybe I'm missing something here...

IMO, his alk constantly rising week to week (not just during the water change) is a cause for action before it gets higher than he wants.
 

exnisstech

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I test parameters once a week. I would never check alk daily much less more than once a day unless something is going on with the tank or I'm trying to determining my consumption for dosing. I've also never tested after a water change. Just never really thought about testing after a WC. I spend more time looking at corals and let them tell me if something needs to be tested. I try to keep things simple and stable. JMO

EDIT : just for info I mix instant ocean and reef crystals 50/50. I've only tested a fresh batch once and alk was 10. Two tanks that get 2 part my alk stays mid 8s and another that get kalk dripped 24/7 runs 7.6 - 7.8.
 

thatmanMIKEson

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I test parameters once a week. I would never check alk daily much less more than once a day unless something is going on with the tank or I'm trying to determining my consumption for dosing. I've also never tested after a water change. Just never really thought about testing after a WC. I spend more time looking at corals and let them tell me if something needs to be tested. I try to keep things simple and stable. JMO

EDIT : just for info I mix instant ocean and reef crystals 50/50. I've only tested a fresh batch once and alk was 10. Two tanks that get 2 part my alk stays mid 8s and another that get kalk dripped 24/7 runs 7.6 - 7.8.
I check alkalinity every 6 hours :( it's surprising how much it changes when you see it on a graph, I've also caught dosing heads that malfunctioned with this method, just a few weeks ago my power went off for 30 minutes when I wasn't home before lights came on at the end of the day my Alkatronic gave me an alert of low alkalinity and I figured that couldn't be right so I manually tested it and it was low! I looked at my dosing heads and all of them came back online but for some reason the alkalinity head malfunctioned it dropped 1 dkh in 12 hours if I waited a few days it would have been pretty low. all the corals lookd fine during this, waiting for the corals to tell me something is wrong is a little to late for me.
 

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exnisstech

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I check alkalinity every 6 hours :( it's surprising how much it changes when you see it on a graph, I've also caught dosing heads that malfunctioned with this method, just a few weeks ago my power went off for 30 minutes when I wasn't home before lights came on at the end of the day my Alkatronic gave me an alert of low alkalinity and I figured that couldn't be right so I manually tested it and it was low! I looked at my dosing heads and all of them came back online but for some reason the alkalinity head malfunctioned it dropped 1 dkh in 12 hours if I waited a few days it would have been pretty low. all the corals lookd fine during this, waiting for the corals to tell me something is wrong is a little to late for me.
No graphs here as I have no controllers. Also with the exception of kalk being dripped in one tank all dosing is done manually. I'm considering trying a doser for alk on one tank but have mixed feelings for reasons you describe above. I guess a failure not to dose would be better than an overdose but still a failure.
I've kicked around controllers but to be honest I don't think I have the smarts to use one correctly. Couple that with me having the patience of a gnat and it probably wouldn't end well :zany-face:
EDIT: I guess I did say I watch the corals for signs of problems. Probably should retract that lol. We all know by the time sticks tell us something is wrong it may very well be too late. With all daily dosing being done manually and nothing to fail but me I'm comfortable with weekly testing.
 
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jda

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Looks like you have an epidemic of rising alk to fix.

At the same time, you could fix the acute issue of the high alk in your salt mix. It is easy. Muriatic Acid is at nearly every hardware store. It is nasty and you cannot get it in your eyes or breathe it, so handle it like an adult. Gallons * dKh drop * .123 is the MLs of Muriatic Acid to use to lower alk in fresh salt mix. Add the acid after the salt has mixed. The acid will make a bunch of co2 so you have to mix and aerate another day for the pH to come back up.
 

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