All corals closed up/ dead

[Rmckoy]

With a canister filter the nitrate should be sky high. I did see those bubbles too. Hard to guess.

This alone is why I was going to suggest.
For a test to be “fine” the only explanation would be a inaccurate test such as api .
it is not able to test accurate levels of nitrates or phosphates

 

[Rmckoy]

Update : I think I’ve found the problem my hydrometer arrived and I tested salinity and it was over 1.028
I’m now in the process of adding RO and taking out salt to get the correct salinity

Lower it slowly and gradually over time
Changing salinity will also effect alkalinity ( which will effect corals

 

[SlugSnorter]

No it’s from cleaning yesterday my extra saltwater was freezing so I’ve left it in a warmer room overnight to add the extra today so the tank temp doesn’t drop to much

you should heat water before adding it to your tank... never add water outside of 3*ish degrees of the tank water, it can kill corals, fish and inverts

 

[Forty-Two]

Update : I think I’ve found the problem my hydrometer arrived and I tested salinity and it was over 1.028
I’m now in the process of adding RO and taking out salt to get the correct salinity

I would suggest getting a refractometer at least - which is much better and more reliable than a hydrometer. I wouldnt really trust the results of a hydrometer.

 

[Emma_fish]

I’ve Got the Salinity down to 1.026 now at least according to my hydrometer, the only reason I got a hydrometer is because I’ve heard there are a lot of variables with a refractometer and lighting, angle, amount of water and many more things can affect results and everything has to be the exact same every time you test to get an accurate result
I’m hoping my corals can make a recovery, is it likely that they will?And would it be worth getting some coral food like reef roids and feeding them to help them recover?
Here are pictures of all of my coral today
Favia, chalice (I think that one is dead), acan, sponge and candy cane

​

 

[Tamberav]

The last three are alive and I think you have what appears to be Cyanobacteria.

Refractometers with calibration fluid are preferred. I am not sure who told you they were not accurate but they are easy to use… most auto adjust for temp and don’t need to do it the same way each time. It’s just added a few drops of water and holding it into the light. There is no special way to angle it or such. The calibration fluid verifies they are working correctly.

Since you have a hydrometer, be sure to rinse it well between uses and make sure no air bubbles are trapped that may effect the swing arm.

 

[Emma_fish]

The last three are alive and I think you have what appears to be Cyanobacteria.

Refractometers with calibration fluid are preferred. I am not sure who told you they were not accurate but they are easy to use… most auto adjust for temp and don’t need to do it the same way each time. It’s just added a few drops of water and holding it into the light. There is no special way to angle it or such. The calibration fluid verifies they are working correctly.

Since you have a hydrometer, be sure to rinse it well between uses and make sure no air bubbles are trapped that may effect the swing arm.

Ok thanks so much for your help I am very careful to use the hydrometer properly but I will consider getting a refractometer

 

[Forty-Two]

The other option which is more expensive but I use and like is the Milwaukee digital refractometer. It’s not fool proof but it is easy, fast and accurate

Milwaukee Digital Refractometers

milwaukeeinstruments.com

 

[tharbin]

When recommending a refractometer over a hydrometer you need to be specific. A glass tube hydrometer is very precise. More precise than a refractometer. The issue is SWING ARM hydrometers. They tend to be inaccurate and easily mis-used due to bubbles.