Ammonia issues

livinlifeinBKK

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What about adding the fish? If I'm reading nitrate then I should be good?
You might reading some nitrate before the tank is fully cycled...if I were you I'd probably just tank a water sample to your LFS and have them give it a good test just to be sure
 
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BuddyBonButt

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You might reading some nitrate before the tank is fully cycled...if I were you I'd probably just tank a water sample to your LFS and have them give it a good test just to be sure
I did bring it.

I'm just confused because when I tested my water at my lfs. They used 2 api kits and they matched with mine. .25 then when I took some water from their 10 year tank, it read 0 on my test kit and both of theirs.

Then when we tested for nitrite both of their test kits read 0 on both my water and theirs.
 

livinlifeinBKK

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I did bring it.

I'm just confused because when I tested my water at my lfs. They used 2 api kits and they matched with mine. .25 then when I took some water from their 10 year tank, it read 0 on my test kit and both of theirs.

Then when we tested for nitrite both of their test kits read 0 on both my water and theirs.
In my opinion it's probably safe...I may be mistaken but if I remember right .25 API is the lowest the test kit can read so it wouldn't be surprising if your tank has 0 ammonia since as someone previously said those kits are known for being a little off but if you wanna double check a decent kit is Salifert
 
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BuddyBonButt

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In my opinion it's probably safe...I may be mistaken but if I remember right .25 API is the lowest the test kit can read so it wouldn't be surprising if your tank has 0 ammonia since as someone previously said those kits are known for being a little off but if you wanna double check a decent kit is salifert.

In my opinion it's probably safe...I may be mistaken but if I remember right .25 API is the lowest the test kit can read so it wouldn't be surprising if your tank has 0 ammonia since as someone previously said those kits are known for being a little off but if you wanna double check a decent kit is Salifert
0 is the lowest. I got 0 using water from a 10 year old tank. But mine is .25

This was the case with 2 other api kits
 

livinlifeinBKK

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Yeah .25 is the second lowest
You're probably just fine...test kits are a frustrating part of the hobby. Moving forward you'll almost certainly want something better than API though... Salifert or Red Sea are good or Hanna if you don't mind investing the money. For right now I'd either get a Salifert kit for ammonia or pour in a different bacteria product if you're worried
 
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BuddyBonButt

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You're probably just fine...test kits are a frustrating part of the hobby. Moving forward you'll almost certainly want something better than API though... Salifert or Red Sea are good or Hanna if you don't mind investing the money. For right now I'd either get a Salifert kit for ammonia or pour in a different bacteria product if you're worried
I was looking at the redsea kits.. I might just drop the $60.

I put both fritzyme 900 and Dr tims already. Gonna pour one more 30 gal bottle for mindsake and probably buy 2 clowns
 
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BuddyBonButt

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In my opinion it's probably safe...I may be mistaken but if I remember right .25 API is the lowest the test kit can read so it wouldn't be surprising if your tank has 0 ammonia since as someone previously said those kits are known for being a little off but if you wanna double check a decent kit is Salifert
So I'm reading 5ppm of nitrate. After dosing 10ml of ammonia total. Over the course of 4 weeks. So 2 weeks ago I dosed 5ml

Is 5ppm of nitrate what I should be expecting or is that suspiciously low? I also added 30 gal worth of more bacteria.
 

damsels are not mean

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First off if you started cycling 3 months ago the tank is cycled whether or not you added any bottled bacteria. Secondly you are almost certainly having test errors. Hobbyist ammonia tests do not seem reliable and this is a common problem people have been having a LOT.
 
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BuddyBonButt

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First off if you started cycling 3 months ago the tank is cycled whether or not you added any bottled bacteria. Secondly you are almost certainly having test errors. Hobbyist ammonia tests do not seem reliable and this is a common problem people have been having a LOT.
I'm actually reading 0 ammonia now, 0 nitrite, and 5 ppm of ammonia. So I think I'm cycled. I was told I'd see more algae but I don't see a spec of it
 

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So I'm reading 5ppm of nitrate. After dosing 10ml of ammonia total. Over the course of 4 weeks. So 2 weeks ago I dosed 5ml

Is 5ppm of nitrate what I should be expecting or is that suspiciously low? I also added 30 gal worth of more bacteria.
That does seem really low...
 

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Says on a different thread that 4ppm of ammonia makes about 5 to 6 nitrate. And I got about 5 after dosing 4 ppm ammonia
Nitrate has a molecular weight of 62, ammonia 17. In other words, 1 ppm NH3 becomes about 4 ppm NO3.

Sounds like you are getting off to a rocky start.
 
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BuddyBonButt

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Nitrate has a molecular weight of 62, ammonia 17. In other words, 1 ppm NH3 becomes about 4 ppm NO3.

Sounds like you are getting off to a rocky start.
Then I really don't know what to do. I've poured over 200 gallons worth of bacteria...

I'm reading 0 ammonia now.. so what do you recommend
 
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BuddyBonButt

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Nitrate has a molecular weight of 62, ammonia 17. In other words, 1 ppm NH3 becomes about 4 ppm NO3.

Sounds like you are getting off to a rocky start.
No I don't know why I said it so wrong. I've dosed a total of 2ppm in 4 weeks. I tried to get it to 2 but I was afraid of overdosing, as I had early on. Dr tims made me dose to 8ppm maybe higher. The ratio was very far off. So total in 4 weeks 2 ppm. So the math should check out

1 ppm ammonia --> 2.7 ppm nitrite --> 3.6 ppm nitrate.

That's what I read.

So 5ppm is the closet to 7ppm for nitrate
 

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api is a kit that will almost always read a .25 if it is already. i wouldnt worry about it. also, what api doesnt tell you is that it reads total ammonia. toxic ammonia is what you have to worry about, and what api does not tell you is how to read the toxic ammonia. your toxic ammonia with a .25 reading is actually a .02.
red sea kits, and probably others, do the same, except the red sea kit tells you that you have to do a conversion to actualy read toxic ammonia. i have also tested differences between an api kit and a red sea kit. i have found that there are test differences between the two. ive also seen different readings come between 3 different api kits, so with the conclusion that i have come to is that the api kits are just so all over the place that you either accept that its giving a false reading (.25 is actually closer to 0), and just know that ahead of time and make adjustments with how you acknowledge the reading, or go with a different brand that might be more trusted. as an additional bit of info; these kits that people use, are hobby kits, so they will always have some degree of inaccuracy.
 

Dan_P

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No I don't know why I said it so wrong. I've dosed a total of 2ppm in 4 weeks. I tried to get it to 2 but I was afraid of overdosing, as I had early on. Dr tims made me dose to 8ppm maybe higher. The ratio was very far off. So total in 4 weeks 2 ppm. So the math should check out

1 ppm ammonia --> 2.7 ppm nitrite --> 3.6 ppm nitrate.

That's what I read.

So 5ppm is the closet to 7ppm for nitrate
Sounds like you have the information that says it is safe to add fish: ammonia consumed and the correct amount of nitrate produced. Check and double check.
 
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BuddyBonButt

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api is a kit that will almost always read a .25 if it is already. i wouldnt worry about it. also, what api doesnt tell you is that it reads total ammonia. toxic ammonia is what you have to worry about, and what api does not tell you is how to read the toxic ammonia. your toxic ammonia with a .25 reading is actually a .02.
red sea kits, and probably others, do the same, except the red sea kit tells you that you have to do a conversion to actualy read toxic ammonia. i have also tested differences between an api kit and a red sea kit. i have found that there are test differences between the two. ive also seen different readings come between 3 different api kits, so with the conclusion that i have come to is that the api kits are just so all over the place that you either accept that its giving a false reading (.25 is actually closer to 0), and just know that ahead of time and make adjustments with how you acknowledge the reading, or go with a different brand that might be more trusted. as an additional bit of info; these kits that people use, are hobby kits, so they will always have some degree of inaccuracy.
Ok so I'm gonna buy the redsea master kit. Having read what I posted, think it's ok if I buy 2 baby clowns? It seems to have cycled but without tests I can't be 100%
 

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