100% water change is exactly what I'm trying to avoid on a 250 gallon total water volume system.
Curious about the time of application as well.
Curious about the time of application as well.
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If no binder is available what about doing a 100% water change 30 minutes after dosing. Is it effective in that short period of time or do you think it is needed to be in system longer.
Congratulations and thank you for sharing your journey. It is about time we finally have a potential in tank solution to deal with AEFW. No doubt this will continue to be tweaked and enhanced over time and lead to a new standard of elimination of this pest
There isn't a lot of feedback here but I am sure many folks are extremely happy to hear about this and encouraged by your results.
You bet happy to help the hobby!! Having AEFW in the coral world is like admitting you have an infectious disease but I feel if this gets around we will have a chance to get these beasts under control...Hence I am sure many are reading but not comfortable commenting....I have personally battled AEFW twice in the past 4 years so having options is certainly a step forward.
I read this treatment on a different forum over the weekend. Great thread, BTW.
I don't have any AEWF or red bugs but I wanted to test the spike and drop in K on a frag.
This past Sunday, I made a fresh cut of my red tabling milli. Here it is just after cutting:
I then computed that I need one teaspoon of KCl per 1/2 gallon of tank water, that was already at 390 ppm, to get it to about 1600 ppm.
I mixed the water in a bucket with Brightwell's Potassion-P, placed some in a plastic bag and dropped the frag in it:
I floated this in the tank so that the change in water temperature wouldn't be an issue.
After the 30 minute dip, I put it on a plug and took this picture:
It looked like there were no issues. (Note that this acro's growth tips are white, that's not bleaching.)
Here's a picture of it yesterday, roughly 24 hours after the dip:
Still looking great!
KMmm
Curious on how you calculated the 1 teaspoon of Brightwell per half gallon of tank water to achieve 1600. I have no way to test levels of 1600 so I followed the directions on the bottle (assuming Brightwell printed accurate info-Thats an unknown since I can't test that high as mentioned)
2 teaspoons in 8oz of RO/DI will make a stock solution that raises 1 gallon of water 1.7ppm
If there are anyone reading who is more skilled at math please jump in with some calculations if mine are inaccurate.
I figured;
1ml raises 1 gallon-1.7
1ml raises 1 cup-27.2
Assuming tank water is 300ppm and target being 1600ppm
Target increase 1300ppm/27.2mls= 47.8 mls needed of solution made to reach 1600
Anyone want to check that for me
Round up to 48mls of solution needed to raise 1cup of tank water (Thats 300ppm) to 1600
1 gallon = 16 cups so
16 cups x 48mls = 768 mls (of solution) needed to raise 1 gallon of tank water to 1600 or roughly 3 1/4 cups solution needed per gallon of tank water to achieve 1600 ppm
Please feel free to correct me
Anyway......
I followed the directions and mixed up a small batch of solution and aquired a frag (2 frags actually) that had AEFW. I dipped the frags in the solution and after 60 seconds I used a turkey baster and gave them a blast-worms came off like water off a ducks back.
I did this on one frag for 30 minutes and at the end of the 30 minutes the worms had fully dissolved-my wife was sort of scared at the way I kept walking into the tank room and the maniacal laugh I kept breaking out into.
MELT you rotten Acro killing abominations, MELT moooo haaaa haaaa haaaa
I rinsed the frag and put it into the tank (oh yes I did) the next day polyps fully extended and it looks great-that was a week ago. 2 days ago I took the other frag and this time just dipped it for 15 minutes since the basting caused the worms to fly off. They start melting around 2-3 minutes. I rinsed this frag and placed it also in the same tank-today all looks great.
I will be using this as a preventative dip going forward, I have always used Bayer but hate the milky white that doesn't allow you to view pests coming off.
Someone please check my calculations if you would not mind
Thanks again for posting this!!!
That's hilarious about the maniacal laughter!
Just throwing it out there to save myself from a calculation session, but has anybody calculated for a dip yet using the water softener material?
Say, 4 cups of saltwater at 400 ppm potassium, needs X amount of the KCl to get the concentration up to 1600 ppm? Just asking because I'm lazy and didn't feel like crunching the numbers. [emoji20]
Laser was the potassium chloride you got in a powder
I was at Home Depot yesterday and was checking this stuff out;
Diamond Crystal, 40 lb. Potassium Chloride Water Softening Pellets, 100012447 at The Home Depot - Tablet
Just curious
Thanks a ton!LOL -- take one teaspoon of the dry KCL and mix with 1/2 gallon tank water and dip for 30 minutes. That will take you from 400ppm to about 1600ppm...
It would probably be wise to save a couple of small pieces of LR rubble so that you can use them to repopulate your bacterial populations as well as your pods and other critters.
I actually do not think that this would be a good idea. Some of the hatchlings go free swimming and may be on the rock that you are using to reseed the tank. You would possibly be reseeding the tank with AEFW as well.
I just picked up some KCL in powder form from Ebay. A bit more expensive per pound, but cheaper than a 40lb bag and I'll never even come close to using the 40 pounds. I picked up two pounds for $11 or so shipped. I didn't need the extra pound (using as a dip, not in tank), but it was $2 more than the one pound bag shipped.