OP
OP
That’s right!!!You should’ve updated this by now.... it’s tomorrow already.
Andre’s Full blown 300Gallon SPS Reeftank up within a week ;-)
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OP
The Venturi from Mazzei wasn’t included!
However all parts are installed and I plumbed and relocated the skimmer last night and it was late, lol.
Pictures and measurements follow today!
However all parts are installed and I plumbed and relocated the skimmer last night and it was late, lol.
Pictures and measurements follow today!
OP
OP
Here is that huge sucker this morning.
Still with the old cup and and the standard venturi.
The new Mazzei Venturi is coming some time this week.
Not too bad, so I can compare the 2 venturis with each other.
So I got plumbed it in a way, that I will be able to locate the body on the floor.
The previous location was about 12" above floor level, so this lower positions gives less backpressure to the pump, and the flow became a bit more now.
Bottom part of the skimmer.
Middle section
The 12" extension.
Very interesting is in this section, the turbulences are much less as in the other body parts and the bubbles are simply more or less just rising straight to the surface.
Setting right now, will be lowered a bit.
Old skimmer cup after a bit of more than 24 hours
OP
OP
Forgot !!!!
The dissolved oxygen with prior the usual peak time was already 8.8mg/L !!!!!
New record so far so early in the day around 12pm. Wasn't home all day so I could not measure if that was exceeded, but I guess so.
The dissolved oxygen with prior the usual peak time was already 8.8mg/L !!!!!
New record so far so early in the day around 12pm. Wasn't home all day so I could not measure if that was exceeded, but I guess so.
OP
OP
This particular link I found pretty interesting since it kind of simply explains the effect of too many bacteria in the Reef tank and it's results in Tissue Necrosis events.
I'm seeing it the same way concerning the fact that folks fueling bacteria is a good thing, but many seem to forget that fueling bacteria, we also fueling the bad guys !!!!
So in theory the presence of many bacteria, reflected by fast nutrient absorption, also indicates potential increased presence of bad bacteria ;-)
Not saying buy this test, but the read itself is pretty good, even while only high level lecture.
https://www.petcha.com/testing-for-...muft90yhRjxMgL44pqGK0npa83ronBZwcyLXlwrP_2RFw
I'm seeing it the same way concerning the fact that folks fueling bacteria is a good thing, but many seem to forget that fueling bacteria, we also fueling the bad guys !!!!
So in theory the presence of many bacteria, reflected by fast nutrient absorption, also indicates potential increased presence of bad bacteria ;-)
Not saying buy this test, but the read itself is pretty good, even while only high level lecture.
https://www.petcha.com/testing-for-...muft90yhRjxMgL44pqGK0npa83ronBZwcyLXlwrP_2RFw
OP
OP
Hope I can do a newer FTS very soon, maybe later this week.
At the moment this ugly looking frag rack is disturbing the view, lol.
Janci
Staghorns will prevail
Hope I can do a newer FTS very soon, maybe later this week.
At the moment this ugly looking frag rack is disturbing the view, lol.
Great colours, Andre. And what a nice frags you have.
The article is an interesting read.
I have my doubts though that a water test will determine the quantity of bacteria as I believe most are densely populating the rocks and structures.
The connection with ORP is interesting.
OP
OP
Thank you. Colors are good, I still look for more fluorescence and glow. Very soon ;-)
Well this test is only for the heterotrophic bacteria! Heterotrophic bacteria are the ones that live in the water column.
The assumption is simply, if the bacteria in the water column are high, the ones on the substrate are high too, hence the bad pathogens as well.
Box of Pandora !!!
OP
OP
More fluorescence is tricky.
Fluorescence is generated inside the tissue and heavily triggered by certain trace elements !!!!
Manganese for example contributes a lot to the glow effect in general.
Then certain elements like Fluoride do influence blue and purple shimmer, while Bromine triggers some of the metallic shine effect that certain corals have.
Just simply more light does not cause better fluorescence, too much light actually depresses fluorescence ;-)
Toomnymods
Active Member
I loved reading thru your posts!! very informative and love seeing all of your frags turn into colonies. I have a 220 gallon reeftank that started out with 200-300lbs of dry rock from marcorocks. I have a serious hair algae problem I have been combatting the past 6-7 months. I've tried to get rid of it by just running my t5 ATI super blues 4 x 80w for 6 hours a day. I also have 3 x 250w hqi metal halide 14k phoenix bulbs but haven't turned them on in 6-7 months as I feel the lower spectrum would just fuel the GHA growth even more.
I also have dosed Reefflux for 3 months now and it has barely even put a dent in it's growth. I added a algae scrubber that is sized for a 350 gallon tank, added 400 grams of GFO in a media chamber and also recently set back up my ZEOvit zeolith stone chamber with 2L of zeolith stones. I have been attacking this problem from every direction I know how to and nothing has changed Also have been doing 45-90 gallons per week waterchanges as well.
My 5 stage spectrapure rodi filter has .01 TDS so I don't think that is the problem.
Any ideas??
I also have dosed Reefflux for 3 months now and it has barely even put a dent in it's growth. I added a algae scrubber that is sized for a 350 gallon tank, added 400 grams of GFO in a media chamber and also recently set back up my ZEOvit zeolith stone chamber with 2L of zeolith stones. I have been attacking this problem from every direction I know how to and nothing has changed
Also have been doing 45-90 gallons per week waterchanges as well.My 5 stage spectrapure rodi filter has .01 TDS so I don't think that is the problem.
Any ideas??
Bugsy_Barboza
Active Member
Funny I was just messaging @PSXerholic about something similar yesterday..... he has me thinking I’m running too clean. I only have some algae on rocks, so his advice was do less. Less gfo, less whatever your doing to fight it. I’ll let him explain but we’ll see what happens, your problem sounds more than lil bit of brown algae on some rocks. Good LUCK!
OP
OP
I will get something for you to try if you can answer the following:I loved reading thru your posts!! very informative and love seeing all of your frags turn into colonies. I have a 220 gallon reeftank that started out with 200-300lbs of dry rock from marcorocks. I have a serious hair algae problem I have been combatting the past 6-7 months. I've tried to get rid of it by just running my t5 ATI super blues 4 x 80w for 6 hours a day. I also have 3 x 250w hqi metal halide 14k phoenix bulbs but haven't turned them on in 6-7 months as I feel the lower spectrum would just fuel the GHA growth even more.
I also have dosed Reefflux for 3 months now and it has barely even put a dent in it's growth. I added a algae scrubber that is sized for a 350 gallon tank, added 400 grams of GFO in a media chamber and also recently set back up my ZEOvit zeolith stone chamber with 2L of zeolith stones. I have been attacking this problem from every direction I know how to and nothing has changed
My 5 stage spectrapure rodi filter has .01 TDS so I don't think that is the problem.
Any ideas??
What is the No3 and Po4 usually?
Also, have you ever tested your "top off water" and "water for the WC" for Po4 with a Hanna checker???
Toomnymods
Active Member
I tested today and the Nitrate was 2ppm, and Phosphate was .04ppm. These tests where done with red sea pro test kits.
No I have never tested my RODI water. I usually change all filters once the TDS on the last stage shows 1ppm.
I really feel like maybe my problem might be a combined action of using dry rock and possibly maybe my spectrapure system might be set up wrong. I'm not sure if the auto flush is actually going down the drain instead of into my rodi container. How do you check this?
Here are the 5 stages of filtration thru my spectrapure 5 stage unit.. It also has a built in booster pump so the pressure on the RO membrane is always 80-85psi. The TDS entering the first stage is only 250-275 usually. After the RO membrane it reads 12-17, and the final output reads .00 soon as it reads .01 usually I change all filters (excluding the RO membrane. Only change that once a year)
1st stage: 0.2 Micron (Absolute) ZetaZorb Sediment Filter Cartridge 10-inch - SF-ZZ-0.2ABS-10
2nd stage: 1 Micron ChlorPlus Chloramine Removal Carbon Block Filter 10-inch - CF-CR-1-10
3rd stage: 99 Percent Rejection SpectraSelect Plus 90-GPD RO Membrane - MEM-SP-0090
4th stage: Mega MaxCap DI Cartridge - 10-inch Twist-Top Shell - DI-MMC-10
5th stage: Enduro DI High Performance DI Finishing Cartridge - 10-inch Twist-Top Shell - DI-MB-ENDI-10
Should I add a 6th stage and put this 10" Silica buster into it? Says it removes the greatest amount of phosphates,nitrates, and silicates of any of their mixed bed resins..
SilicaBuster DI Cartridge - Color-Indicating SuperDI 10-inch - DI-SB-CI-10HC
https://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEM...DI-Cartridge-Color-Indicating-SuperDI-10-inch
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OP
OP
In order to rule out the water supplies as a potential source for silicates and phosphates, you need to take a Hanna Checker ULR and test the RODI water for Top off and Salt water mixing.
I see a lot of folks have trouble with the materials used for containers and tubing etc.
Simply use the Hanna and check the water for Phosphorus first, as well the mixed water for water changes.
One thing I noticed in your description is a very high TDS after the RO membrane. RO water shall not exceed 1-3 TDS otherwise the system is bad, and resins are depleted very fast.
I personally use a simple 3 stage system and use the Spectrapure Silicabuster/CI DI resin at the last stage. That I change every 2-3 months with no water changes, only top off.
Sand filter and carbon blocks I change every 8-12 months in my case. Membrane I change if TDS of the RO is exceeding 3-5 TDS. A fresh membrane usually shows 1-2 TDS with a simple handheld TDS meter.
Tackle that first before looking for a more complex biology issue in the tank!
OP
OP
Small update on the Skimmer........
I just got and installed the MAZZEI Venturi yesterday.
Really nice, the water flow did not change, but the air bubbles in the skimmer are finer and even more now.
Before I did notice always some larger bubbles entering the body, that's gone now.
Looking forward to the DO results. PH this morning was a bit higher than the nights before, so that did improve slightly too. The MAZZEI withdraws 1L/h more air as the Standard Venturi from Lifereef as per the Flow meter, and the air withdraw is very stable with no fluctuation on flow as with all other Venturis I ran on this skimmer.
Compared to the cheap Venturis, it's day and night. The Mazzei doesn't make any noises as the other one did.
Also the effect is much much better. On this subject, the term you get what you pay for is true.
I just got and installed the MAZZEI Venturi yesterday.
Really nice, the water flow did not change, but the air bubbles in the skimmer are finer and even more now.
Before I did notice always some larger bubbles entering the body, that's gone now.
Looking forward to the DO results. PH this morning was a bit higher than the nights before, so that did improve slightly too. The MAZZEI withdraws 1L/h more air as the Standard Venturi from Lifereef as per the Flow meter, and the air withdraw is very stable with no fluctuation on flow as with all other Venturis I ran on this skimmer.
Compared to the cheap Venturis, it's day and night. The Mazzei doesn't make any noises as the other one did.
Also the effect is much much better. On this subject, the term you get what you pay for is true.
TX_Punisher
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Since I missed something, are you injecting oxygen or ozone?
And in the bromium, what are typical levels in NSW?
And in the bromium, what are typical levels in NSW?
OP
OP
I'm not injecting any of those really ;-)
No Ozone in use ever yet!
I do actually only measure the Dissolved Oxygen levels that are been achieved by playing with the skimmer settings such as bubble size, air inlet amount, flow and water height in the skimmer.
Bromium, I guess you meant Bromine levels. Those are usually 65mg/L in natural seawater. I personally bump it up to 85-90mg/L to have a nicer metallic shimmer effect on SPS. It is depleted very slowly so not much dosing is needed which I do like every few months. My current level is still 102mg/L so I let it drop naturally by consumption. Certain Magnesium reactor media do have Bromine as a side effect which caused my levels to bump up too high, hence I ditched that media.
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