Anemone Help

Jekyl

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I use tap and conditioner. I am using API. It's the only one available in the stores near me. What do you recommend I use? Here are my parameters:

Salinity:
pH: 8.2
temp: 76
nitrate: 20

I don't have anything to test Phosphate, Calcium, or Alkalinity so I'm not sure what those numbers are, which I imagine is bad. I can run to the store and get something to test today but chances are it'll be API.
This is your issue. Tap water with conditioner. After 2 years I'd like to know how much copper or God knows what have made it into the system. Add that with not knowing alkalinity would be my bet.
 

dedragon

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I use tap and conditioner. I am using API. It's the only one available in the stores near me. What do you recommend I use? Here are my parameters:

Salinity:
pH: 8.2
temp: 76
nitrate: 20

I don't have anything to test Phosphate, Calcium, or Alkalinity so I'm not sure what those numbers are, which I imagine is bad. I can run to the store and get something to test today but chances are it'll be API.
There are the real issues.
You should use better kits like salifert, red sea pro, or hanna checkers. API is just the cheapest and most easily sold by any LFS or online store so they usually get new people to buy them without knowing better.

Tap water and conditioner I wouldnt recommend either unless you know the TDS of your incoming water to be very low. That should be switched to rodi water
 

dedragon

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Time to get that tank in shape with many water changes and carbon (and maybe some cuprisorb as well for copper as jekyl said).
After doing a good amount of water changes and adding carbon, I would send out an icp test to make sure the tap water hasnt messed up the levels too much. Your tank has had a lot of time for the rocks to absorb whatever heavy metals and phosphates and nitrates that have been in your tap water.
Another option is to get the test kits and after the water changes use a test coral. A bit cheaper and you wont get exact readout of everything in your water but might let you know if your tank is ready for corals/inverts.

Have you had any issues in the past with inverts like corals, snails, or shrimp dying?
 

Dom

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I've used 2 of these (a total of 4 lights) in a tank that was 48"wide x 12"deep x 12"high. In it are 2 Nems that have thrived under these lights for (4) years. They provide a total of 148 watts of light. The reason is that these lights provide enough penetration to the bottom of a 12" tank.

I got great results with these lights in a 12" tank.

 

Dom

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I use tap and conditioner. I am using API. It's the only one available in the stores near me. What do you recommend I use? Here are my parameters:

Salinity:
pH: 8.2
temp: 76
nitrate: 20

I don't have anything to test Phosphate, Calcium, or Alkalinity so I'm not sure what those numbers are, which I imagine is bad. I can run to the store and get something to test today but chances are it'll be API.

You are correct. Usually, you will find API. But the knock on API is with its Ammonia test kit; it always shows ammonia.

I find that API test kits are good for routine testing. But I also have Red Sea tests to double check any API results I get.

Maybe you can take a sample to the local fish store and ask them to test?
 
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Cina

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Time to get that tank in shape with many water changes and carbon (and maybe some cuprisorb as well for copper as jekyl said).
After doing a good amount of water changes and adding carbon, I would send out an icp test to make sure the tap water hasnt messed up the levels too much. Your tank has had a lot of time for the rocks to absorb whatever heavy metals and phosphates and nitrates that have been in your tap water.
Another option is to get the test kits and after the water changes use a test coral. A bit cheaper and you wont get exact readout of everything in your water but might let you know if your tank is ready for corals/inverts.

Have you had any issues in the past with inverts like corals, snails, or shrimp dying?
I have had hermit crabs and one coral die. I had them for about a year. We were told we weren't changing the water frequently enough and our nitrates got too high.

Do I just add cuprisorb and carbon to the whole tank?
 

dedragon

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I've used 2 of these (a total of 4 lights) in a tank that was 48"wide x 12"deep x 12"high. In it are 2 Nems that have thrived under these lights for (4) years. They provide a total of 148 watts of light. The reason is that these lights provide enough penetration to the bottom of a 12" tank.

I got great results with these lights in a 12" tank.

That is 4x the amount of lights being used currently and 3.5x the budget they put down, so probably not the best option given the budget. I also think you might have missed that it was 11 wide and not water depth.
TBH I think that Orpheks or Quanta reef would probably have been a better budget option for your tank as you could use less light fixtures to accomplish the same thing and have room to expand if you wanted to use them on a larger or deeper tank
 

dedragon

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I have had hermit crabs and one coral die. I had them for about a year. We were told we weren't changing the water frequently enough and our nitrates got too high.

Do I just add cuprisorb and carbon to the whole tank?
That is just because most LFS dont really care too much. It they did they would have let you know about rodi water or to get phosphate, alk, and ca test kits. Easier to make better margins by selling you more corals and inverts. Not saying that nitrate wasnt too high but there are other things they could have taken time out to tell you

No, you put them into media bags in a high flow area (usually the sump or in hob filter compartment etc).
 

Dom

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That is 4x the amount of lights being used currently and 3.5x the budget they put down, so probably not the best option given the budget. I also think you might have missed that it was 11 wide and not water depth.
TBH I think that Orpheks or Quanta reef would probably have been a better budget option for your tank as you could use less light fixtures to accomplish the same thing and have room to expand if you wanted to use them on a larger or deeper tank

Too much light can be reduced in intensity to meet the needs of the tank.

But yes, I misread. The tank is 20" tall. I thought I read that it was 11 tall.

It will be difficult to find ample lighting with that budget.
 

justrock79

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I have the same light on my 40g breeder and my black widow anemone is doing great. So are my duncans and other corals. My anemone moved around a lot at first, but then found a place it likes in a rock. It still moves from time to time, but mostly just to other places on the same rock.
 

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I have had hermit crabs and one coral die. I had them for about a year. We were told we weren't changing the water frequently enough and our nitrates got too high.

Do I just add cuprisorb and carbon to the whole tank?

I have an idea...

Start with FAITHFUL, weekly 20% water changes. This will export excessive nutrients and replenish elements consumed by the tank.

Do this for about 8 weeks and monitor to see if there is improvement.

If you start adding bottled solutions to the tank without knowing the cause of your problem, you may just compound it.

With proper lighting and husbandry, this tank should thrive.
 

Sleeping Giant

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I use tap and conditioner. I am using API. It's the only one available in the stores near me. What do you recommend I use? Here are my parameters:

Salinity:
pH: 8.2
temp: 76
nitrate: 20

I don't have anything to test Phosphate, Calcium, or Alkalinity so I'm not sure what those numbers are, which I imagine is bad. I can run to the store and get something to test today but chances are it'll be API.
increase the temp to 78-79
 

dedragon

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If you start adding bottled solutions to the tank without knowing the cause of your problem, you may just compound it.
Cuprisorb and carbon are not bottled solutions...
 

Dom

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Cuprisorb and carbon are not bottled solutions...

Anything you buy off the shelf and add to your water is a bottled solution in my opinion. It doesn't have to be in a bottle to categorize it as a "bottled solution".

And if this isn't a bottle, what is?
Screen Shot 2022-12-21 at 4.36.57 PM.png
 

dedragon

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I see a container, lol.
Cuprisorb absorbs heavy metals including copper and isnt what you think it probably is. Most people use "bottled solution" to mean actually bottled liquids that directly add chemicals or bacteria, etc to the tank and dont use it to refer to carbon.
I am in no way recommending it as the entire fix to their problem, it can help along with water changes and optimally an icp test to determine heavy metals contained in the tank and if they were built up by using tap water for years
 

jabberwock

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I see a container, lol.
Cuprisorb absorbs heavy metals including copper and isnt what you think it probably is. Most people use "bottled solution" to mean actually bottled liquids that directly add chemicals or bacteria, etc to the tank and dont use it to refer to carbon.
I am in no way recommending it as the entire fix to their problem, it can help along with water changes and optimally an icp test to determine heavy metals contained in the tank
Actually, "most people" live in second and third world countries and could never dream of affording to own an aquarium. Semantics matters...
 

dedragon

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Actually, "most people" live in second and third world countries and could never dream of affording to own an aquarium. Semantics matters...
true, now back to what can actually help this person out.

if you want you could run an icp before and after using carbon and cuprisorb but given budget I feel that is probably going to cost too much and really isnt worth it as cuprisorb and carbon are just to address the use of tap water and mitigate its effects going forward.

Are there any more corals in the tank other than the one that died and what type of corals? some corals are less likely to be effected in the long term by larger tank changes than others
 

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