Another Evo 13.5 Build

FishyFishFish

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Hello,

I'm just starting up a new Fluval Evo 13.5. It is currently cycling but I will upload photos once it's tidied up a bit.

Specs (I will update this as the build progresses):

Standard LED
Nicrew PRO Lamp Timer
Eheim Jager 50W Heater
Sicce 0.5 Return Pump
Single 1/2" RFG
In Tank Chamber 1 Media Basket
Caribsea Aragonite Sand
Marco Rocks Nano Shelf Pack

60CM Glass Aqua Stand (I haven't seen any reviews of this online but I like it!).
 
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A Piece of the Ocean for Every Reef Tank
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FishyFishFish

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The first question I have is regarding flow.

I chose the Sicce 0.5 for 2 reasons, firstly because I read that some people were having problems with too much flow from the 1.0 and, secondly, because I didn't want to risk the flow through the filter section not being able to cope.

Having set it up, the flow is fine through the filter chamber but not huge in the display. I have searched through as many Evo threads that I can find and some people are happy with no additional powerheads, and others have gone for things as powerful as the MP10.

How do I decide how much flow I need and, more importantly, what is too much? I was looking at the Aqamai KPS, which is one of the smallest powerheads that I can find, but even that has a minimum flow of 370 GPH, which is still 37x the water volume and over 100x at max flow (plus the 18x from the Sicce 0.5). Is that not way too much?

The only other alternative I can find is something like the little Hydor Pico Evo Mag (or nothing at all!).
 

lazy josh

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The first question I have is regarding flow.

I chose the Sicce 0.5 for 2 reasons, firstly because I read that some people were having problems with too much flow from the 1.0 and, secondly, because I didn't want to risk the flow through the filter section not being able to cope.

Having set it up, the flow is fine through the filter chamber but not huge in the display. I have searched through as many Evo threads that I can find and some people are happy with no additional powerheads, and others have gone for things as powerful as the MP10.

How do I decide how much flow I need and, more importantly, what is too much? I was looking at the Aqamai KPS, which is one of the smallest powerheads that I can find, but even that has a minimum flow of 370 GPH, which is still 37x the water volume and over 100x at max flow (plus the 18x from the Sicce 0.5). Is that not way too much?

The only other alternative I can find is something like the little Hydor Pico Evo Mag (or nothing at all!).
I use the ai nero 3 and its dc so you can dial back the power as much as you want and make a schedule for it

check it out i like it
 
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FishyFishFish

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Thanks very much. What size tank are you using it on?

The min flow isn't advertised but it looks like it is about 600GPH, which is 60x the water volume of my Evo, and that is on its absolute lowest setting. Is that not too much for my little nano tanK?
 
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Nano925

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I use the 0.5 on my Evo with 2 1/4 RFG. It’s working for me with good filtration. I also have chamber 1and 2 intank media baskets. Love all the upgrades. I had the 1.0 and was too much flow for my setup. The nero3 looks awesome! I tried the hygger mini wave maker and it didn’t have the controllability I really wanted. I felt it was always too strong especially at night I felt the fish couldn’t chill. Find out what corals you want and that will help a lot with how much flow you want. Good luck can’t wait to see some pics.
 

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This is my setup!
 

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A Piece of the Ocean for Every Reef Tank
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FishyFishFish

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Back here to qualify for the Hanna giveaway ;)

Just measured my parameters. Salinity 1.026, Nitrates 7, Phosphate 0.05, Mag and Ca quite high at 1575 and 430 respectively, and Alk 7.7. Alk and Phosphate tested with the Hanna checkers. I was going to do a water change tomorrow but with those figures I might give it another week.

Whilst I'm here I will also update the progress.

I have bought some CUC and a few corals. I have 3 scarlet hermit crabs that are pretty peaceful so far, and a bunch of snails. I also added 2 sexy shrimp today (it was supposed to be 3 but one didn't make it alive :( )

I have had a couple of disappointments. My first fish (a green clown goby) didn't make it through the first night in my QT. I live 2 hours from my LFS and I've subsequently been told they don't travel well. I also had a Torch coral that was doing really well in the DT, but I moved it back to the QT (in with the poorly fish) as it had some unidentified hitchhikers. Shortly after going in the QT (which it had been in before) it went down with BJD and I lost that too.

I did buy a Aqamai KPS wavemaker but I think I'm going to return it. I'm not sure what other people think about flow, but I think my Sicce 0.5 with RFG might be enough on its own.

Other than that, I have a tiny bit of algae appearing and maybe slight diatoms, but the CUC are keeping that in check at the moment. I'll try and get a photo when I can but it's proving difficult to get a full tank shot.
 
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FishyFishFish

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Hood modification.

I have drilled the canopy for John Guest bulkhead fittings with elbows inserted.

The fitting in the rear section is directly above the return pump chamber and provides ATO water.

The fitting in the main section is ready for me to connect my doser for kalk. I can always add extra fittings if I need more. The only issue with dosing is that there is very little evaporation with the hood on.

I am going to see how the temps are over the summer; if it starts to get too warm then I'll cut some big holes in the canopy and add some cooling fans. I actually prefer the look of the canopy rather than a mesh top, but it does somewhat restrict me to the stock LED and is a bit of a pain for some of the maintenance/feeding activities.

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FishyFishFish

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I have resurfaced to update this thread to qualify for the latest Hanna giveaway!

The tank is looking a lot dirtier now than it is in the photos. I'm also struggling a little with cyano.

I think I've got the dosing sorted and the last test, using the Hanna Alk tester, showed a reading of 8.1. which is about where I want it. I am dosing Kalk and Baking Soda but the last Cal test was showing low for the first time. I am going to dose a little bit of Ca to get the level back where it should be.

My first fish (a sharknose goby) has completed QT and will be moved into the DT at the weekend :)
 

Just John

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If you are want to upgrade the light with another one that fits inside the lid you could get the Fluval Marine 3.0. I have it and I like it. It's not as bright as the more expensive lights, but it's better than the stock. Here is something that I put on a previous thread for someone asking about the light :

The light fits really well, except it requires some trimming to keep it completely level. You don't have to trim it to use it, but you will probably want to at some point. There is a small gap along the sides, but it's not too big. On the first picture (from their website) you can see a thin strip on the holder that goes down the side of the tank to prevent the light from falling in. That needs to be cut off of one end, as I mentioned. If you have a Dremel tool, it's easy to cut or grind it off in two minutes. A hack saw would work too. Don't worry, the light can't fall in when it's in the lid and, as I said, this does not need to be done to use the light. The other end goes in the feeder hole. The timing functions are more useful than I would have thought. That alone is a good reason for a new light IMO. Everyone says consistency is key for good growth. That guarantees it with lighting. (Just a helpful hint if you get it, it will be much easier to delete all of the time points under Pro and then add them back in as you go along. You'll see what I mean.
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