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Yes they burn at the tips every time and then slowly wither away. I do have a blue throat trigger but I've never seen him show any interest in coral. No Angel's. Just a tang some wrasses anthias clowns foxface and two gobies. I do dip using revive. I'm not sure if the block is causing any issues. It seems some people love them and some say go withoutSo the pattern of death for your acros:
They look fine for about two weeks.
Then the tips go white.
Then the flesh shrivels and slowly peels away.
1) Do I have that correct?
I will ponder that a little. I've killed a few acros in my day, but that is not how mine went.
2) How about a list of your fish? Angels? No trigger, right? No puffers.
3) Does not sound like AEFW or red bugs to me. Do you dip? If so with what?
As to the Marine Pure, I run two large blocks in my 140G with no trouble for the year. Ran 1 large in my 65G to two years no trouble. I have read (mostly RC) threads on the AL leaching and the jury is out. Some said their leathers were affected. I don't keep them so can't say. IMO those blocks serve my tanks and bacteria colonies very well.
Well I think we can rule out nutrients since both n and p are way above that. I keep thinking the leds but I feel like if I go any lower there is barely any par at the top not even mentioning how low it will be on the bottom. Right now I have my whole fixture 13" above the tank to try and spread the leds. Should I lower the fixture and try to rely more on my t5?If you are consistently burning tips, then it is LED burn or you have too high of alk with nearly zero N and P. I am not even talking about .1 to .5 n or .01 P since these are not low enough to burn tips... I am talking about lower than this by using organic carbon.
Okay I'll try that. I really want to switch to an 8 bulb dimmable fixture and I could always just put the hydra money towards that. I just used the seneye to get par throughout the tank and ill include a pic of my lighting schedule for the leds. The only thing I changed recently was putting uv at %40 and instead of having uv on the whole time I switched it to just during peak hoursI always suggest letting T5s carry the load... others disagree. I would get that fixture down 4-5 inches from the water and turn the LED off or down to like 10-20%.
Yes the seneye is mine. I'm going to lower the fixture and put the leds to %15. I will take par readings again when I'm doneLower the fixture. Run the T5s for 10 hours and bring the Hydras in at a VERY low setting for a few hours or when you want to see some blacklight. Remember that even lower PAR for more hours can get the job done.
Can you get new PAR readings after you lower the fixture? Do you still have the SenEye, or did you borrow it?
He's one of the newest fish and I've had these problems before him. I think with blue throats the reef safe with caution is geared towards them having a taste for inverts. I had a peppermint shrimp when I got him and now it's gone. I'm guessing he's the culpritAnybody suspicious about a blue throat trigger appetite for a little nibble?
I love the way triggers look and move, but was told they are a no-no. I keep dwarf angels -- against the same advice -- but they only eat expensive zoas and the occasional blasto or acan.