Apex Display Module Causes Head Unit to Reboot Repair

_AV

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Some of my previous repairs:


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Enjoy this repair, now in HD :)




And as always, uncensored, updated and corrected versions of my repair articles are a quick internet search away.

The next installment of the reef gear repair saga is about yet another very common issue with Apex. This time we are dealing with random frequent head unit (aka Apex Brain) reboots or disconnects. Typical symptoms of the problem:

- Apex head unit restarts periodically and randomly followed by
- EB832/EB8 and other modules not being able to connect to the head unit
- Disconnecting one particular modules seems to solve the problem
- Faulty module seems to power on and otherwise work just fine

In this particular repair, I have an old black Apex Display module donated to me by a fellow reefer to experiment with. His description of the problem was that the display module would cause his EB832 and other modules to randomly disconnect from the head unit. It was later determined that it was the head unit which was in fact affected by the faulty display module. Once the display was removed from Apex, everything started working again.

So let's dive right in.
On the surface, this display module does not look too bad. The main cable is a bit chewed up and Neptune's signature jumper wire is in place. But otherwise it's clean, no corrosion or any other visible damage.

scn01.jpg

As expected, it powers up and actually communicates with my test Apex head unit just fine. It can show temperature, PH and other parameters specific to my test set up. So I know that the AquaBus communication is working.

Upon closer inspection I found this component:
scn02.jpg


For those of you following my repairs, this should look very familiar. This is the old version of the CAN transceiver used by Apex to establish AquaBus communication throughout it's ecosystem. It's the 5V version of the component which was installed on all Apex Classic modules.
At first, I thought that the round blob on the surface of the component is either some flux or salt. I should know better than that by now.

A few scrapes with my pick revealed... a cavity:

scn03.jpg



That's right. There is a hole in the AquaBus transceiver of a very distinct shape and color indicating that it burned from the inside.
As usual, let's remove and replace:

scn04.jpg


Clean up the pads from old solder and replace the component:

scn05.jpg

scn06.jpg

scn07.jpg

And of course, remember to reattach the signature jumper wire. Then repair the main cable and it's time to test again:
scn08.jpg


After several hours of the module being connected to the head unit, there were no more any random resets or reboots. This display is now fixed.
But what was the actual problem and why was the display module able to communicate with the head unit if the primary component responsible for the communication had a hole in it?
That's a great question. Let's begin with the basic understanding that there is no protection between Aquabus ports and the CAN transceiver in question. Not on the data pins anyway. On top of that, we have 12v power being carried next to the data pins. So any mild short of the 12v Aquabus power and any one of the data pins will cause the transceiver to blow. Perhaps the damaged Aquabus cable caused the short, it could have also been anything else.

Also, in this particular case, the transceiver managed to function even after the short. This is fairly common as the damage was not significant enough to completely take the component out. But now, with any significant communication load, the performance of the component degrades much faster than what it was designed for. As a result, it gives in and shuts down. It is likely that this display was either corrupting the data or sending unpredictable voltage and current over the data pins causing the head unit to lose it's mind and reboot randomly.

But... this display module is now happy again

scn09.jpg
 
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SPR1968

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That’s a very detailed write up and thanks for sharing it, again beyond my talents but interesting to see how you did it.
 

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Your soldering work is cleaner than the original. Great job.
 
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Your soldering work is cleaner than the original. Great job.
Thank you. It's not hard with the right tools and steady hands. Unlike the manufacturer, I don't have a conveyer belt of these units. So doing it right is both important and the responsible thing to do given the application.
 

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Another great and helpful Apex repair thread. That sounds like the issue with my display. I have two bad units now I will have to take a peak and see what I find. Is there a part number for that part?
 
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Another great and helpful Apex repair thread. That sounds like the issue with my display. I have two bad units now I will have to take a peak and see what I find. Is there a part number for that part?
Thank you. Look for MAX3059 and make sure it's a 5v IC.
 

laverda

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Thank you.. It looks like Moser has 2 variations of the chip, if anyone needs them.
However I took both of my displays apart and the chip looks good on both. The first one the wiring connection looks very suspect. Even with glasses on it is hard to tell. To me it looks like the wires are frayed and possibly shorted. Not sure how this would happen. One min it was working, the next it wasn't! The symptoms for this one was the brain totally stop working. I unplugged everything and one by one plugged things back in. As soon as the display was plugged in it would quit again.
I will get a magnifying glass and redo the connections. Any tips on removing the coating?
20210603_103559.jpg

20210603_104734.jpg
20210603_104204.jpg

20210603_104838.jpg
 

laverda

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My second display looks like there are two issues. The wire conection is clearly a problem. Looks like R3 is probably bad as well. My guess being R3 failed causing the wiring to get hot enough to melt the solder connection. Any idea the value of R3?
20210603_105315.jpg

20210603_105438.jpg

Thanks for the push to get me to see about fixing these! Your information/ posts have been very helpful. Next I will need to see about my other dead Apex components.
 
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If you suspect that the USB cable is the problem, test each pin for continuity and shorts with your multimeter.
I usually remove coating with a pick or an xacto knife. Need to be careful not to damage the traces.

On the second unit, the resistor is not necessarily bad. First, resistors usually fail open, not closed/shorted. Second, R3 and the other one on the other side of the board look about the same. Likely just a bad after thought soldering job from Apex manufacturing.

Apex display USB cable is extremely thin and flimsy. I'm not at all surprised that one wire came off the board from just the use. But I can't discount a short as well. Those wires do carry 12v and will feel some heat if shorted.

Also, can't completely dismiss the CAN transceiver being bad. Watch my latest video on the diagnosis, even if the transceiver is not showing any physical signs of damage:

 
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laverda

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On the second one the wire that was off clearly got very hot and was black. The one next to it was almost as bad.
My eyes are not good enough any more to work with the tiny connections and my tools are too big.
 

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I also have a problem with the value of R3 and my cables also detached the order black, green, white and red, I do not know if it is ok, thanks for any help.
16285596389044057113605142785569.jpg
 
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I also have a problem with the value of R3 and my cables also detached the order black, green, white and red, I do not know if it is ok, thanks for any help.
16285596389044057113605142785569.jpg
Wires seem to be in the correct order. This is not the first time I see this particular resistor disappearing. I have one in for repair currently with this same issue. I'll update once I finish with it. I suspect the resistor is the casualty of something else failing.
 
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I also have a problem with the value of R3 and my cables also detached the order black, green, white and red, I do not know if it is ok, thanks for any help.
16285596389044057113605142785569.jpg

Here's a repair video showing the R3 resistor repair:


There I discuss the resistor value, possible replacement options and the likely cause of the failure.
 

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