Aquarium Controller or Nah for your reef?

[Rixar]

Except for an inkbird that warns you of problems with the power supply or temperature, I don't see the point in using a controller.

I use three Versa pumps, to add AFR, NO3, and PO4. I measure my parameters once a week, and the numbers rarely change.

If I go on vacation, put an automatic feeder and a webcam, I can leave the tank alone for 10 days without any problems.

I have an ATO for my evaporated water.

How could a controller help? I don't understand the point. My Inkbird already alerts me if the power goes out.

I don't need a graph of my daily KH or PH fluctuation.

If I need to program a device, I can always buy a $10 smart plug.

 

[Dj City]

I had an apex on my 180g and had a love / hate relationship with it.
Had a Trident, 2x dos pumps, solenoid, flow sensors, wav pumps, probes and the like.

When it all works, it works great. When one thing goes out, it takes out a number of other components.
Programming can be a pain of you don't know the language.
Sometimes things are not as accurate as if like them to be and it's pretty cheaply made.

I'm considering Hydros for my 50g build.

Can any of you tell me how Hydros stacks up to apex?
Pros & cons?

 

[Ef4life]

I had an apex on my 180g and had a love / hate relationship with it.
Had a Trident, 2x dos pumps, solenoid, flow sensors, wav pumps, probes and the like.

When it all works, it works great. When one thing goes out, it takes out a number of other components.
Programming can be a pain of you don't know the language.
Sometimes things are not as accurate as if like them to be and it's pretty cheaply made.

I'm considering Hydros for my 50g build.

Can any of you tell me how Hydros stacks up to apex?
Pros & cons?

The apex and hydros will basically both do the same things, they just do it quite differently. The main benefit to the hydros imo is they really embraced directly powering devices from the hydros itself, so no big bulky power adapters needed which can really clean up the wiring. Hydros has the benefit of incorporating all the newer technology at the time it was designed vs the apex which is quite a bit older.

I have and use both, but then there still is the 100% confirmed fact that no controllers are required or necessary to keep a beautiful reef.

 

[Major Havoc]

I had several Apex systems running on different tanks. They worked most of the time. I would prefer something like Robo-tank, but I am concerned with the amount of support behind it. I will most likely go with Hydros for the new system I am currently setting up. Web cameras and battery backup systems are always used as well.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

I had several Apex systems running on different tanks. They worked most of the time. I would prefer something like Robo-tank, but I am concerned with the amount of support behind it. I will most likely go with Hydros for the new system I am currently setting up. Web cameras and battery backup systems are always used as well.

What web cameras are you using?

 

[Major Havoc]

What web cameras are you using?

Upgrade to these - eufy Security Indoor Cam S350

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Upgrade to these - eufy Security Indoor Cam S350

Oh nice, haven't heard of those before, but the video quality looks really good on them!

 

[BryanM]

I'm a neptune guy because the used tank I bought came with it.

It works great, but now I do kinda wonder if it fails, how does it fail?

But regardless I can't imagine not having a controller.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

I'm a neptune guy because the used tank I bought came with it.

It works great, but now I do kinda wonder if it fails, how does it fail?

But regardless I can't imagine not having a controller.

You know, I've never thought about the fail part, haha.

 

[BryanM]

You know, I've never thought about the fail part, haha.

Same, but this thread.... yikes.

 

[Connor At CoralVue]

Same, but this thread.... yikes.

REDUNDANCIES

Using HYDROS as an example, we have a decentralized brain...a Collective as we call it, multiple brains working together as one cohesive unit.

These Controls are linked via the Command Bus Cable that is tug-proof, dust-proof, splash-proof, rather than a USB that could rust or get yanked, or a drop of water falls on it......

Using perhaps a HYDROS Control X4 and Control XP8 for example with a Heater, the X4 has the SENSE Ports, one of those being for TEMP Sensor. Meanwhile, the XP8 is handling the actual on/off of the heater controller via 120v controllable outlet.

ALWAYS use a heater controller!

Redundancy, what happens if that X4 and XP8 are disconnected by accident, what if the the temp sensor gets unplugged....what if HYDROS doesn't know what to do....you TELL it what it should do in the configuration.

For each output, there is the option for "If INPUT (Temp) or Dependency Unavailable...TURN ON or TURN OFF. If HYDROS doesn't know what it should do.

Let's continue using the Heater as an example...If HYDROS doesn't know what to do...TURN ON.

Therefore, now the Heater Controller (IceCap, InkBird, Helios, the dial on top of a glass heater, etc) is calling the shots, maintaining temperature.

HYDROS gets power from the wall source, HYDROS determines if the heater should be ON/OFF based on the temp...but if unknown, TURN ON. Therefore, the Heater Controller gets power and determines if the heating element should be on or off. Therefore, you have 2 layers of redundancy.

Let's go deeper into even more safety...the HYDROS Control XP8 has power monitoring on each outlet. We can set the power safe range for each output individually, lets say the heater is 300w, safe range we can set to 250w to 350w.

We need to ensure that when HYDROS turns the heater on, the heater controller is also attempting to turn on the heating element, we can ensure this by setting the Heater Controller to a degree higher than what the actual HYDROS goal is for temp. On a normal occurrence, it'll never get up to the heater controller temp as HYDROS would turn off the outlet at the tight HYDROS range. Now we have the extra layer of redundancy of power monitoring.

Further...HYDROS wants to keep the temp tight, perhaps less than a degree, but as we do so, we may be floating right around the turn on point or the turn off point...what we want to eliminate is that quick flipping ON/OFF/ON/OFF over and over again. Therefore, we can ENABLE ADVANCED settings and set our MIN On Time, which is how long the heater must remain on after coming on, and the MIN Off Time, which is the time the heater must be off before allowed to turn back on. With that we can eliminate rapid switching and save the lifetime of mechanical switches.

Further Further...what if one of those temps is higher than the other, or there's an issue with the temp sensor where its reading a temp, so its not unknown, but its not correct....well, add another temp sensor. In the standard HYDROS Heater Preset Family, if the 1st and 2nd temp sensor are greater than 2 degrees apart from each other...listen to the higher number, lets not cook the tank, plus fall back redundancy would fall to heater controller.

And we didn't even get to the part where you can then depend this on water level, flow, only while the return pump is on, and a LOT more. Just gotta set it up to act as you wish. It sounds difficult, but with HYDROS its all straightforward no coding, and if you need help, our support is just an email or call away.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Oh nice, haven't heard of those before, but the video quality looks really good on them!

I use Arlo cameras since I already have a subscription with them for home security cameras.

 

[tigre44]

It's been a while so let's ask it again!

Do you use an aquarium controller on your reef tank?

Why or why not?

Which one are you using?

No I do not use a controller due to cost and not sure I could program one if I did have one. As soon as I start hearing about one that requires minimal set up I will certainly consider buying one