Aquarium Placement

Cincyreefer513

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So, I have the opportunity to upgrade my tank with a phenomenal deal from someone who pretty much hasn't been keeping up with his tank and just wants it gone. It's a 120 gallon with a UP36 sump. I currently have a Flex 32 and figured if I upgrade it would be to a 120, however, my wife doesn't like the 24" width (she'd rather a 5' x 18" vs 4' x 24"). Well, this tank comes along... It has literally all of the bells and whistles. You name it for $500. He hasn't cleaned the DT in a year so lots of algae and has a crazy aiptasia problem so there is definitely some work to be done.
My wife is perfectly fine with upgrading to a larger tank, but she insists that if I get this footprint, it must go against a particular wall. The only problem with this, is this spot would sit parallel with the joists, not perpendicular. So my question to the masses, is this something that even could/should be done? Has anyone done it? I can get a structural engineer out if need be to determine specifics if this is even doable. The room is an addition which sits above a crawlspace and was built in the early 70s. I'd feel much more comfortable turning it 90 degrees in the same corner personally, however, it's not that simple lol. I plan to add supports from the joists to the ground anyway, but the joist orientation worries me. Thoughts?
 

Brandont21

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unfortunately your best bet is to get an engineer out. No one can really say for certain, and is a bit of a liability. An engineer will be cheaper than the repairs and clean up of a tank falling through your floor. Just my opinion though.
 

vetteguy53081

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So, I have the opportunity to upgrade my tank with a phenomenal deal from someone who pretty much hasn't been keeping up with his tank and just wants it gone. It's a 120 gallon with a UP36 sump. I currently have a Flex 32 and figured if I upgrade it would be to a 120, however, my wife doesn't like the 24" width (she'd rather a 5' x 18" vs 4' x 24"). Well, this tank comes along... It has literally all of the bells and whistles. You name it for $500. He hasn't cleaned the DT in a year so lots of algae and has a crazy aiptasia problem so there is definitely some work to be done.
My wife is perfectly fine with upgrading to a larger tank, but she insists that if I get this footprint, it must go against a particular wall. The only problem with this, is this spot would sit parallel with the joists, not perpendicular. So my question to the masses, is this something that even could/should be done? Has anyone done it? I can get a structural engineer out if need be to determine specifics if this is even doable. The room is an addition which sits above a crawlspace and was built in the early 70s. I'd feel much more comfortable turning it 90 degrees in the same corner personally, however, it's not that simple lol. I plan to add supports from the joists to the ground anyway, but the joist orientation worries me. Thoughts?
I placed a 660g tank a while back in a similar fashion as it was Peninsula. I distributed weight by placing the stand on plywood across joists and checked for level bi-monthly and it never shifted.

See wood, then next pic with stand on it

660arrival17.jpg

660arrival27.jpg



Stand on wood:

600g1.jpg
 
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Cincyreefer513

Cincyreefer513

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Brandon, it may come to that if need be. I just wanted to know if people with larger tanks have safely and successfully accomplished this. Where I live, it'll probably cost extra to have someone drive all the way out to my house. I don't want to waste the time/money on something that's been proven not realistic if others have tried previously.

Vetteguy, I'd say with a tank that size, you proved it can be done with the right reinforcements. Thanks!
 

Gregg @ ADP

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unfortunately your best bet is to get an engineer out. No one can really say for certain, and is a bit of a liability. An engineer will be cheaper than the repairs and clean up of a tank falling through your floor. Just my opinion though.
I wouldn’t walk on a floor that couldn’t support 165lbs/ft^2
 

AKReefing

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So, I have the opportunity to upgrade my tank with a phenomenal deal from someone who pretty much hasn't been keeping up with his tank and just wants it gone. It's a 120 gallon with a UP36 sump. I currently have a Flex 32 and figured if I upgrade it would be to a 120, however, my wife doesn't like the 24" width (she'd rather a 5' x 18" vs 4' x 24"). Well, this tank comes along... It has literally all of the bells and whistles. You name it for $500. He hasn't cleaned the DT in a year so lots of algae and has a crazy aiptasia problem so there is definitely some work to be done.
My wife is perfectly fine with upgrading to a larger tank, but she insists that if I get this footprint, it must go against a particular wall. The only problem with this, is this spot would sit parallel with the joists, not perpendicular. So my question to the masses, is this something that even could/should be done? Has anyone done it? I can get a structural engineer out if need be to determine specifics if this is even doable. The room is an addition which sits above a crawlspace and was built in the early 70s. I'd feel much more comfortable turning it 90 degrees in the same corner personally, however, it's not that simple lol. I plan to add supports from the joists to the ground anyway, but the joist orientation worries me. Thoughts?
I'm in a similar situation, but with a 6-foot peninsula sitting parallel to engineered wood floor joists over a crawl space. Generally speaking, a floor built in the '70s should support the aquarium. Two things should be addressed. First, the placement of the aquarium relative to the joists. If there's one joist under the main part of the aquarium, you should address the possibility of it rocking because of any plywood "give" on one side. I have that issue with my 110, but I'm getting ready to move it. Second, you should address any joist sag that will result when the full weight is applied. My plan is to support the new tank location by supporting two joists from underneath with adjustable floor jacks placed on concrete pavers and with a 4x4 cross-beam above. They don't need to be strong enough to support the full weight of the aquarium--the joists do that. They just need to be strong enough to help resist the deflection along the length of the joist(s) and sideways due to plywood flex.
 

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