Am I the only one who always thinks about if I will get a shock when I stick my hand in my tank for something?
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
And I specifically told my electrician that I DIDNT want GFCI for the tank. I’d rather a tiny bit of stray voltage in the tank than my return pump turn off and kill my tankI have replaced both of the outlets where my tank is now with GFCI outlets. So, nope.
And I specifically told my electrician that I DIDNT want GFCI for the tank. I’d rather a tiny bit of stray voltage in the tank than my return pump turn off and kill my tank
I already had a dedicated line run just for my tank. I’m not running another for the return pump.The solution to this is to run your return off a non gfci. Not enough current to kill you (most likely) but you can still protect yourself from everything else. My return runs on a different breaker then everything else.
And I specifically told my electrician that I DIDNT want GFCI for the tank. I’d rather a tiny bit of stray voltage in the tank than my return pump turn off and kill my tank
Exactly. But if you plug the apex into a GFCI it can turn the whole apex off making it uselessI’m not worried about that. The return can run on battery back up and I have my apex setup to send me alerts if one of my eb8’s loses power.
Exactly. But if you plug the apex into a GFCI it can turn the whole apex off making it useless
When I used an Apex with a single controllable power bar I made 4 units like the ones I have here. Two were for heaters, one for the skimmer, one for the return pump.Exactly. But if you plug the apex into a GFCI it can turn the whole apex off making it useless
This is interesting and I didn’t know you could do that. So you basically just added a GFCI in the middle of the line from the apex to the device?When I used an Apex with a single controllable power bar I made 4 units like the ones I have here. Two were for heaters, one for the skimmer, one for the return pump.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-gfci-installation.342874/
Plug the GFCI outlet into the power bar and then the device into the outlet.
You can see what are effectively 4 controllable GFCI outlet pairs that I used to use here.
I would never let a single GFCI risk crashing my system but I wouldn't run without a GFCI either. I've seen someone have a failed pump that leached so much copper into his system that it killed all his coral and he had to do a complete reset. So for me, if it is in the tank, it gets on GFCI. The reason I only needed the 4 of them is because I used MP-40's and the motor is outside the tank.This is interesting and I didn’t know you could do that. So you basically just added a GFCI in the middle of the line from the apex to the device?
Do you only run specific devices which are more likely to fail (like heater) on the GFCI or do you run everything for the tank off of them and the apex?
I knew a guy locally who installed all new GFCI outlets in his house and then a few weeks later had his tank crash cause they tripped and he didn’t get any notice for a couple days till he came home to find nothing running, which is my big fear.