ATI ICP Test Results

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reefinnewb

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You're metals seem to be really high. Any rusting going on? Cracked coating on magnets? I'm not sure what the upper limit on copper should be but I would be most concerned about tracking the source of that down.
 

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Your DI is exhausted and needs to be changed. If running a 4 stage, might need to look at a 5 or 6 stage upgrade. Silica is getting through and shouldn't be.

For your tank...alk is a little low, salinity is low, mag could be bumped up to 1350 or so, molybdenum is low. Some real problems are manganese, copper, zinc, and tin being so high. This needs to be tracked down and found ASAP. Phosphorous is also a little low for my liking. I prefer .05 to .1 personally.
 

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You lose a penny somewhere?

Agree with the salinity and alk (those two I think are critical to be right on and rock steady). And with alk...there's a range, so whatever you like. 7-8 is good but there's more room on the high side than the low.

Silica shouldn't be an issue unless you're having diatom problems.

Edit...plus not sure if silica means resin exhausted. I thought to remove silica if you had high source, took a 3 stage (which I have but not for silica). Meaning can't you have a working DI resin bed for most elements and still have high silica?
 
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You're metals seem to be really high. Any rusting going on? Cracked coating on magnets? I'm not sure what the upper limit on copper should be but I would be most concerned about tracking the source of that down.
The only thing I can think of would be the magnet on my ATO sensor, but that was added after I began having issues with the tank. I don't have anything else in there that could be causing this, but I will double check. I actually just went through and checked all of my equipment a few weeks ago while testing for stray voltage and I couldn't find anything corroded whatsoever. Everything still looks brand new.
 
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Your DI is exhausted and needs to be changed. If running a 4 stage, might need to look at a 5 or 6 stage upgrade. Silica is getting through and shouldn't be.

For your tank...alk is a little low, salinity is low, mag could be bumped up to 1350 or so, molybdenum is low. Some real problems are manganese, copper, zinc, and tin being so high. This needs to be tracked down and found ASAP. Phosphorous is also a little low for my liking. I prefer .05 to .1 personally.
My TDS meter is still reading 0 and the cannisters are only a couple of months old... I have a 4-stage, so I will find a silicate cannister to add to it.

My alk and pH have always been low; I use Tropic Marin Pro and it mixes low. I have been looking to switch salt mixes for that reason, actually. I have Kalkwasser on hand that I've been thinking about adding to my ATO, but apparently my refractometer instructions are wrong in telling me to use distilled water to calibrate it and I've been told that the lower salinity will contribute to the low alk and pH, so I am going to wait until I get the salinity fixed before using the Kalkwasser. I am going to order some calibration fluid as soon as I get my 'fix it' list together, as well as some poly pads and some CupriSorb.

I was under the impression that the high manganese won't cause any problems? Is there something that could be causing these high metals? I don't dose and I use only RODI water.
 
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You lose a penny somewhere?

Agree with the salinity and alk (those two I think are critical to be right on and rock steady). And with alk...there's a range, so whatever you like. 7-8 is good but there's more room on the high side than the low.

Silica shouldn't be an issue unless you're having diatom problems.

Edit...plus not sure if silica means resin exhausted. I thought to remove silica if you had high source, took a 3 stage (which I have but not for silica). Meaning can't you have a working DI resin bed for most elements and still have high silica?
I wish it was as easy as a penny! The only thing I can think of would be the magnet on my ATO sensor, but that was added after I began having issues with the tank. I don't have anything else in there that could be causing this, but I will double check. I actually just went through and checked all of my equipment a few weeks ago while testing for stray voltage and I couldn't find anything corroded whatsoever. Everything still looks brand new.

My refractometer has been reading 1.025 since I started and the instructions say to calibrate wit distilled water..... Apparently that's my issue, so I am going to order some calibration fluid once I get my 'fix-it' list put together.

I actually don't think that diatoms could live in my tank at the moment; all I have as far as algae is what looks to be a thick stranded GHA and maybe some turf algae.. But that's anyone's guess.

I did some research on the silicates and found that most RODI units only remove about 50% of silicates. Apparently you have to have a specialized cannister to remove them so that' going on my list as well.
 

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My TDS meter is still reading 0 and the cannisters are only a couple of months old... I have a 4-stage, so I will find a silicate cannister to add to it.

My alk and pH have always been low; I use Tropic Marin Pro and it mixes low. I have been looking to switch salt mixes for that reason, actually. I have Kalkwasser on hand that I've been thinking about adding to my ATO, but apparently my refractometer instructions are wrong in telling me to use distilled water to calibrate it and I've been told that the lower salinity will contribute to the low alk and pH, so I am going to wait until I get the salinity fixed before using the Kalkwasser. I am going to order some calibration fluid as soon as I get my 'fix it' list together, as well as some poly pads and some CupriSorb.

I was under the impression that the high manganese won't cause any problems? Is there something that could be causing these high metals? I don't dose and I use only RODI water.
It's really hard (well it's actually easy but takes a lot of water every day) to manage alkalinity and calcium with water changes. That's a good as mix as any. Look into getting the Kalkwasser setup or go with a premixed additive (All For Reef is good if you have low demand).
 
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It's really hard (well it's actually easy but takes a lot of water every day) to manage alkalinity and calcium with water changes. That's a good as mix as any. Look into getting the Kalkwasser setup or go with a premixed additive (All For Reef is good if you have low demand).
I have been looking at All For Reef. Maybe I’ll go that route since I really don’t have much livestock at all.

I really just need to get the metals taken care of at this point; do you think the CupriSorb and the poly pad will be enough?
 

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I have been looking at All For Reef. Maybe I’ll go that route since I really don’t have much livestock at all.

I really just need to get the metals taken care of at this point; do you think the CupriSorb and the poly pad will be enough
Not the expert on metals removal but have heard good results from them. I'd be concerned more where they're coming from and making sure it's managed or removed.

But also, I'm not sure on the toxicity of the copper being measured here and if it's not a worry, a concern or an emergency. Since you don't have any die off (I assume you'dve mentioned that)..I'm pretty sure not the latter. But that's why you're posting on Randy's forum. :)
 
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Not the expert on metals removal but have heard good results from them. I'd be concerned more where they're coming from and making sure it's managed or removed.

But also, I'm not sure on the toxicity of the copper being measured here and if it's not a worry, a concern or an emergency. Since you don't have any die off (I assume you'dve mentioned that)..I'm pretty sure not the latter. But that's why you're posting on Randy's forum. :)
Actually, every coral I put in this tank dies and my inverts, aside from my two pistols, do not do well. So yeah, something is definitely wrong :confused:
 

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Actually, every coral I put in this tank dies and my inverts, aside from my two pistols, do not do well. So yeah, something is definitely wrong :confused:
Ugh..sorry. That's what I get for assuming. Well, at the very least you have some indicators for action then. Good you sent the ICP in.
 
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No trace element dosing that might be overdosing?

Copper is unusual to see. Did the rocks ever get exposed to copper?
No, I am not dosing anything whatsoever at the moment. I was dosing OceanMagik phyto and Vibrant before, but it’s been a few weeks since I dosed either.

If they have been, it certainly wasn’t while in my care. That’s actually what I am starting to wonder because I truly cannot figure out where it could be coming from.

I certainly hope I won’t need to remove and replace all of the rock and sand, but it almost sounds like that’s going to be necessary since apparently it stays in the rock once exposed.
 

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I see that there's many great people trying to help you stay and enjoy this hobby. I'll add my 2 cents.

Like how others suggested, from the test results and what you're describing (inverts dieing), I'd think copper is the first one to suspect and treat.

While copper can affect both fish and inverts, since inverts uses copper based mechanism to transport oxygen (like how hemoglobin in us uses iron to transport oxygen) they're more sensitive to copper. Much like iron poisoning for us.

So when inverts are affected and copper's present in water, I'd think you should treat that first. And I'd try Cupramine and see how to levels monitor. You may need to get a copper test kit or see if your LFS can do that for you.

And as for leeching, I'd think unless it was rock with abundance of copper in it, it'd be manageable with Cupramine and WC. Since there'd be only limited amount of copper. But someone with better chemistry knowledge should be able to chime in. @Randy Holmes-Farley
 
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I see that there's many great people trying to help you stay and enjoy this hobby. I'll add my 2 cents.

Like how others suggested, from the test results and what you're describing (inverts dieing), I'd think copper is the first one to suspect and treat.

While copper can affect both fish and inverts, since inverts uses copper based mechanism to transport oxygen (like how hemoglobin in us uses iron to transport oxygen) they're more sensitive to copper. Much like iron poisoning for us.

So when inverts are affected and copper's present in water, I'd think you should treat that first. And I'd try Cupramine and see how to levels monitor. You may need to get a copper test kit or see if your LFS can do that for you.

And as for leeching, I'd think unless it was rock with abundance of copper in it, it'd be manageable with Cupramine and WC. Since there'd be only limited amount of copper. But someone with better chemistry knowledge should be able to chime in. @Randy Holmes-Farley
Do you mean CupriSorb? That’s my plan, actually; poly-filters and CupriSorb to try and get rid of the metals. I do have a Hanna Checker for Copper, so I will test the water this weekend and see if it registers before I start with the water changes.
 

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The only flexible tubing I have is the clear flexible plastic kind (only a few inches to connect the return pump to the rigid PVC), and the ribbed plumbing type hose. Those can leach tin?
Yes that’s the exact tubing that can- there’s a few threads about it. Though unless the tin is super high, it doesn’t seem to adversely affect anything that I’ve read.
I have high Tin in my frag tank that’s plumbed with flex PVC… I watch it, but it’s not hurting anything yet…
 
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Thank you all for the time you’ve spent with me and your advice.

At this point, I am thinking I am going to just eat it and do a tank reboot with 100% live rock and live sand.

I’m done messing with this thing and I am done dumping cash into a non-productive money pit that I can’t even enjoy.

If anybody has any suggestions for where I should get the new live rock and sand and also what I should do with the stuff I have, I would love the feedback.

As of right now, I am looking at Gulf Live Rock for the rock and sand and Garf for some of their Grunge +.

Thank you all again for all of your help.
 
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