AWC and ATO system for Reefer 250 suggestions

[OfficeReefer]

Hello, R2R!

I'm in the process of standing up a new Reefer 250 v3 system this summer and as its in an office, I don't plan on doing regular water changes with all the investments I've made. I have an Apex EL system and multiple DOS, Trident, ATKv2, FMM with various modules and sensors, 1Link with solenoids and a PMUPv2. I'd like to get some final feedback before I finalize the system and start filling.

Everything is about 2-3m(6-9ft) from each other separated by a partial wall into a butlers pantry which I added a butlers sink to. Underneath, I've installed a 75gpd Aquatic Life twist in RODI system and added a Trigger Systems 10g ATO. At the moment, this is a manual fill to optical sensors and leak sensors I have with the FMM there. The DOS I plan to use for AWC features later on with the PMUPv2 being used for tank and external container fill scenarios. I will be using this option to initially fill the Reefer 250 and supplied ATO. At the moment, I have a manual shut off brought over from the butlers sink that is at 40+psi and I'm running it straight to the Apex solenoid then into the ATO 10g tank now. I do plan on adding a splitter I think for the regular ATO but I could also use an extra DOS for that but really not needed. I'm thinking to just use a splitter tee and two Apex solenoids on either side to the main AWC ATO or around the corner to the smaller included ATO. I'm also inclined to also install a small flow meter on the 1/4 line to know when I need to replace media along with the auto shut off valve included with the kit.

Current Setup
--------------------

Sink ---> Manual 1/4" Shutoff Valve ---> 75gpd RODI unit ---> Apex 24vdc solenoid ---> Trigger 10g ATO and PMUPv2 ---> Reefer 250v3 sump or main tank


Proposed Setup

Sink ---> Manual 1/4" Shutoff Valve ---> Two-Way Auto Shutoff Valve ---> 75gpd RODI unit ---> Two-Way Auto Shutoff Value ---> Two-Way 1/4 Tee Adapter ---> (2x) Apex 24vdc solenoid ---> Trigger ATO and RedSea ATO

The main thing is that I don't want water to keep running through any of the filters when not using the DI water. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions to this setup?

Thank you!

 

[blaxsun]

It I was doing this, I'd hook the RODI system directly to the gravity-fed Red Sea ATO (2.9 gallons) in the sump with something like the Aquatic Life 500300 Float Valve Kit. Then you don't need the ATK or PMUP (at least for ATO). The DOS will definitely work for AWC.

 

[OfficeReefer]

It I was doing this, I'd hook the RODI system directly to the gravity-fed Red Sea ATO (2.9 gallons) in the sump with something like the Aquatic Life 500300 Float Valve Kit. Then you don't need the ATK or PMUP (at least for ATO). The DOS will definitely work for AWC.

This is true, however I have a separate 5g Trigger from my Max Nano I may opt to use, maybe not.

I guess my question is mainly on the path taken with the dual auto shut off valve that comes with the twist-in 75gpd RODI unit from AquaticLife. I have only one solenoid at the moment and when it shuts off, the water just backs up and continues to run through the waste water. I need to ensure that shuts off too and still fills the 10g ATO I am going to use for saltwater mix and brief holding and the pmup is still needed to flush, otherwise my salinity will slowly rise with each change.

 

[blaxsun]

I use the same system, so I'm not sure if it helps but here is how mine is installed.

1. Yellow (water) feeds into the top of the auto shutoff valve.
2. Blue line (RO) feeds into the bottom of the auto shutoff valve (check valve in-between).
3. Red line (waste) feeds into the drain.
4. Blue water line (blue) extends to a pressure tank with a T-connector.
5. White water line is connected to an on/off valve for manual filling.

The RO unit runs until the tank fills (~3.5 gallons) at which point the auto shutoff valve stops water flow.

 

[blaxsun]

You would basically install it the same way as I've shown, except instead of going to the pressure tank you would extend the blue line to your 10-gallon ATO reservoir and use the float valve. From there, you could use the a pair of PMUPs to provide RO to your internal Red Sea sump reservoir as well as your saltwater reservoir. If I understood correctly, that is.

 

[OfficeReefer]

I use the same system, so I'm not sure if it helps but here is how mine is installed.

1. Yellow (water) feeds into the top of the auto shutoff valve.
2. Blue line (RO) feeds into the bottom of the auto shutoff valve (check valve in-between).
3. Red line (waste) feeds into the drain.
4. Blue water line (blue) extends to a pressure tank with a T-connector.
5. White water line is connected to an on/off valve for manual filling.

The RO unit runs until the tank fills (~3.5 gallons) at which point the auto shutoff valve stops water flow.

Ah ha! I'll do the same, except add the Apex flow sensor and solenoid just after but before the 10g ATO holding. I have two optical sensors and a max time to ensure the tank doesn't overflow and a leak sensor connected to an FMM. The ATK is still on my Max Nano, so I'm not concerned about that just yet. I do use the PMUP to fill or top off and flush the ATO holding via the 1Link with DOS for AWC, Apex Solenoid and PMUP.

I think this should work.

 

[blaxsun]

I think this should work.

Best of luck! You'll love the twist system - changing filters is quick and dry!

 

[OfficeReefer]

Best of luck! You'll love the twist system - changing filters is quick and dry!

Something is odd about this. I tried the setup a similar way, I'll post a photo shortly. Could I get your opinion @blaxsun?

I have manual shut off > RODI > Waste out to bottom in of auto shut off > then out to drain
Then on the top of the auto shut off, I have RODI water out > auto shut off > then 24vdc solenoid > then 10g ATO

When the solenoid to ATO is off, the waste water still runs, I thought this would shut that off too?

 

[OfficeReefer]

Nvm. I think I found the issue is that the secondary affects the primary or the bottom (screws) side is the lower pressure one, not the top side (this is high pressure). The instructions also indicate to put it on the source if possible. I'll try this one and see what happens later.