AZMSGT build thread

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AZMSGT

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Did my first water change on the 625. I put markers on the tank for reference. 40 gallons is roughly my 25% water change mark.

 
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Finally had the electrician out. I have 2 GFCI 20amp circuits next to my tank now.


I also changed my light mounts to wire. I didn’t like the way the bridge arms looked.


This is what happens during the “waiting for cycling to finish” stage.. you get board and change things.
 
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OK, so my UV and the GFI don't like each other. I'm thinking the power supply on the UV is bad since it pops the GFI circuits as soon as it's plugged in. It's brand new for the most part so we will see how this goes. If I plug it into a standard socket it works fine and doesn't pop a breaker.
 

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I know those GFCI circuits are new so they should be gtg. If you were to plug the UV into say... the bathroom or kitchen outlet does it immediately pop there as well?
 

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Loving the build so far and can't wait to see the fish get in their new home! Agree on the wire vs. arm for the lights, as well. Much nicer aesthetic, and hope you figure out the UV issue.
 
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I know those GFCI circuits are new so they should be gtg. If you were to plug the UV into say... the bathroom or kitchen outlet does it immediately pop there as well?
Yes, the electrician used his GFCI curciut tester to make sure the new circuits where not the issue.

I’m actually in the process of doing more trouble shooting.
I OHM checked it this morning and the ground was open which is good.
I plugged it in and nothing popped. So at this point I am waiting till it heats up and runs for a while to see if it fails again. Hopefully it will trip the GFCI when hot. Then I can ohm check the ground probe and see if there is an issue.
Time will tell.
It’s on my trouble shooting check list to try it on an older circuit as well.

Regardless I don’t trust it.
 

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hmmm... did you roll up some paper towel and insert it into the UV housing where the bulb goes to see if water is getting where it shouldn't and causing a short?
 
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hmmm... did you roll up some paper towel and insert it into the UV housing where the bulb goes to see if water is getting where it shouldn't and causing a short?
Yes I did the paper towel test I did it for a 24 hr period to be sure and checked the towel every hr till I went to bed and got up the next day checking a few times. One of the first things I checked when I had the problem was the bulb I opened everything up and the bulb is bone dry. But more to this story in the next post.
 
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Yesterday I plugged the UV into the new GFCI circuits and let the unit run. I used an extension cord that I knew would stretch to an older GFCI in the house. After a few hours the new GFCI popped on the UV circuit. Of course it happened while I was out of the house so I couldn't check the ground for a short from thermal expansion in the ballast. By the time I got home the ballast was cooled off.
I moved the plug to a old GFCI circuit, the one in the bathroom. It's been plugged in there for 13hrs now and still going strong.

For my piece of mind I contacted BRS (who I bought it from) and asked them what they knew. They said that UVs and Metal Halide light ballasts cause GFCI circiuts to pop at times. They recommended I just plug the UV into a standard outlet. Well, that didn't sit right with me for a good answer. I then called Pentair the maker of the UV. They told me they have seen a few of these and are sending me a new ballast/powersupply.

So right now.. I am not sure whats the true fault of the problem. The new GFCI outlets or the UV ballast.

in the mean time I'm going to leave the UV plugged in to the bathroom GFCI circuit. Going to let it stay there through the weekend and see what happens.
 

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The speed in which these ballast are made I'm not surprised there is a margin for error, I'm sure there are quite a few that make it through with problems.

I lost all my livestock to a tripped GFCI, I try to limit what gets plugged into a ground fault outlets. Now, I ask myself, "If this piece of equipment shorts out, would I die if my arm is in the water?" That usually limits it to heaters and AC driven submersible pumps. If the answer is NO I don't use a ground fault interrupter.

The UV is questionable because it's low voltage AC and the bulb has a slight potential to come in contact with the water. I hope the new ballast doesn't trip your plugs but if it continues to, I would plug it into an outlet that is not protected.

I never had any luck with the 15A, you're right to use the 20A GFCI's. I tend to purchase the more expensive ones because the cheap ones always seem to be more of a problem than they're worth (I don't know why, but I found that out the hard way). Hopefully your contractor didn't opt for the cheapest home depot outlet.
 
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The speed in which these ballast are made I'm not surprised there is a margin for error, I'm sure there are quite a few that make it through with problems.

I lost all my livestock to a tripped GFCI, I try to limit what gets plugged into a ground fault outlets. Now, I ask myself, "If this piece of equipment shorts out, would I die if my arm is in the water?" That usually limits it to heaters and AC driven submersible pumps. If the answer is NO I don't use a ground fault interrupter.

The UV is questionable because it's low voltage AC and the bulb has a slight potential to come in contact with the water. I hope the new ballast doesn't trip your plugs but if it continues to, I would plug it into an outlet that is not protected.

I never had any luck with the 15A, you're right to use the 20A GFCI's. I tend to purchase the more expensive ones because the cheap ones always seem to be more of a problem than they're worth (I don't know why, but I found that out the hard way). Hopefully your contractor didn't opt for the cheapest home depot outlet.
Lots of great advise here. I’m thinking I might just swap out one of the GFCI outlets and convert it back to a standard line. Originally the concept was going to be splitting the 2 return pumps between the two GFCI. So if one went down the other would keep the tank going.

I’m pretty certain the electrician opted for the cheap outlets. I have the boxes so I can cross check the UPC.
 

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Originally the concept was going to be splitting the 2 return pumps between the two GFCI. So if one went down the other would keep the tank going.

I had that same idea wen I wired my fish room , I wired a 2 gang outlet (away from any water source) with 2 separate 20 amp GFCI circuits. then branched both circuits to the same locations all throghout the room just in case 1 outlet got tripped the one right next to it still had power. It has already proven itself because water tripped one that ran half the vortechs but the other half continued to move water.
 
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The Chromis fish died... He had a pretty severe bruise on his left side and as time went by it was getting darker and darker. Finally his entire body was actually curving to the left and he would swim turning left. Over the last few days he has just not been swimming or eating. I helped move it on to the golden fishbowl in the sky.

In the mean time the Purple fire fish I think has an issue and I am going to start treating it.

I'm glad I have decided to get my main amount of fish from a person that will do all the QT stuff before I ever get the fish. More to come as that happens.
 
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My purple Fire fish was showing signs of having problems. I started to weight the dollars, cents and sense of it all. The cost of treating one fish would far exceed the replacement of it. Sounds cruel to put it that way but it’s basic economics.

All that said, I’m not a cruel person so my solution to helping this fish is simple. Add more fish to treat. Besides my empty 625 will need inhabitants soon anyway.

I had picked up a 10g tank during Petcos $1 per gallon sale. Got it specifically for copper treatments. Grabbed a Eheim heater and seachem HOB both on sale.

I took the bio filter media from my 20g which was cycled and am using it on the 10g hospital tank.

So let me introduce three new inhabitants.



Started copper treatment today.
 

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Besides my empty 625 will need inhabitants soon anyway.
I know the feeling, I was stuck in that rut for a long time. In my opinion, there is nothing fun with QT, however looking back, I am so glad that I stuck with it and didn't throw my hands in the air in frustration and toss fish in the main tank.

I guess if you look at it logically, it's worth the headache and frustration up front rather than down the road after you have had the fish in your tank and grown accustomed to their mannerisms. Nothing takes the wind out of your sails like total tank die off from disease a year into your setup.
 
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I know the feeling, I was stuck in that rut for a long time. In my opinion, there is nothing fun with QT, however looking back, I am so glad that I stuck with it and didn't throw my hands in the air in frustration and toss fish in the main tank.

I guess if you look at it logically, it's worth the headache and frustration up front rather than down the road after you have had the fish in your tank and grown accustomed to their mannerisms. Nothing takes the wind out of your sails like total tank die off from disease a year into your setup.

I wouldn't call it a rut.. Just board and I wanted at least a couple fish to look at while the other stuff cycled.. I was hoping the observation QT in the 20G that I was trying would allow me make sure the fish were healthy. Well in my case it would seem neither were. So that left me with the choice of treat or not. Since I ordered fish from a person that does the Full QT on them and your fish arrive basically sterile. The last thing I was going to do is put a sick fish in with those healthy fish.

Since I'm home anyway I might as well treat the fish so everything will come together down the road.

Oddly enough my 20G qt is now empty and cycled. It would be a great place to QT inverts and Corals. They would have to be in there for the duration of letting any free floaters die so.. Hmmm.... This could be a blessing in disguise.
 

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