Bean Animal Drain issue

Greg Depo

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Hey guys.
Recently I replaced my two hydor return pumps with eco tech M2s. The tank is 110g with a platinum 34g sump. I also installed a new pentair uv and replummed one side of the returns to include a bypass for the UV. Also I placed a apex 1” flow meter (with 5” of straight pvc on each side of the unions).

What I’ve noticed is I can’t turn the M2s above like 400gph or the bean Animal drain can’t keep up. I guess I didn’t realize how overstressed/underpowered the hydors were but I can’t get close to the 1200gph needed to be effective against algae.

Shouldnt a 1” bean Animal be able to drain at least 1200-1500 gph? I’ve got my gate valve fully open and it still can’t keep up with the m2 at low levels.

Any ideas?
 

lapin

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Greg Depo

Greg Depo

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It should flow at least 1000 gph at full siphon (no air in line)
Now if its a straight run down it can flow a lot more.
Any 90's or valves can slow flow down.
I have a union 3 90s maybe 5ft total of tube. Just don’t understand how it would be so slow?? I reallllly don’t want to take the drain apart. I’d have to move the entire tank out from the wall! I don’t need to calibrate the flow sensors from neptune right?
 

theMeat

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It should flow at least 1000 gph at full siphon (no air in line)
Now if its a straight run down it can flow a lot more.
Any 90's or valves can slow flow down.
This^
1” full siphon can do 15-1600 gph on a straight drop of 5 foot or more. The further the siphon drop, the stronger the flow.
Ime 2-6x the display tank volume going through sump is the sweet spot. Closer to 2x on bigger tanks, and closer to 6x on smaller. More going through sump than skimmer can process is pretty much a waste, and bigger pump pushing more water makes more heat, which may or may not be a problem in your situation.
You add circulation pumps/wave makers to help with debris/algae
 

ZoWhat

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I would definitely point the finger at this flow meter.... you should revisit all adjustments it requires

(When all else fails, sit down and actually read the Instructions)
 
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Greg Depo

Greg Depo

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This^
1” full siphon can do 15-1600 gph on a straight drop of 5 foot or more. The further the siphon drop, the stronger the flow.
Ime 2-6x the display tank volume going through sump is the sweet spot. Closer to 2x on bigger tanks, and closer to 6x on smaller. More going through sump than skimmer can process is pretty much a waste, and bigger pump pushing more water makes more heat, which may or may not be a problem in your situation.
You add circulation pumps/wave makers to help with debris/algae
So with a uv sterilizer if you’d want to hit the ultra high flow numbers to affect algae dna you could never use your return pump if you want to go no higher that 6x turnover? I just don’t understand why pentair would encourage that setup if it’s not feasible in most systems.
 

theMeat

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So with a uv sterilizer if you’d want to hit the ultra high flow numbers to affect algae dna you could never use your return pump if you want to go no higher that 6x turnover? I just don’t understand why pentair would encourage that setup if it’s not feasible in most systems.
The uv bulb size/wattage/brightness determines the exposure time to effectively sterilize what you’re trying to kill. With bigger/brighter bulb the water flowing through it needs less time exposed to the uv light so you can push more gph. Smaller less powerful bulbs need slower flow to allow more exposure. This has nothing to do with your desired return flow, and will do nothing to algae that is on your rocks and whatever. It only kills algae that physically passes through the uv sterilizer, I.e free floating algae/spores.
Don’t get me wrong, I have a uv on my tank, but it won’t stop algae, only help to keep it spreading a bit
 

lapin

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For algae control:
Think of a tree. It grows. It will spread via seeds 1 time a year. Algae will grow. When it goes to seed the UV will only help kill off its seeds. 100% of the water will never pass thru the UV so some seeds will remain viable in the tank.

The uv bulb size/wattage/brightness determines the exposure time to effectively sterilize what you’re trying to kill. With bigger/brighter bulb the water flowing through it needs less time exposed to the uv light so you can push more gph. Smaller less powerful bulbs need slower flow to allow more exposure. This has nothing to do with your desired return flow, and will do nothing to algae that is on your rocks and whatever. It only kills algae that physically passes through the uv sterilizer, I.e free floating algae/spores.
Don’t get me wrong, I have a uv on my tank, but it won’t stop algae, only help to keep it spreading a bit
This ^
 

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