Before I move on...

[Hugo_Fish]

Hey guys!


Being someone that works the night shift, I normally have all the time in the world to learn stuff. As I have never soldered before and I want to make sure what I have done looks good. I do not want to put power though the board without making sure everything is in place.. I know it's probably stupid to learn how to solder on a project like this but hey, I do stupid stuff. I believe I did a okay job . This board is just a test Unless everything goes well I plan on buying another one and redoing it. I currently do not have any cutting pliers small enough to cut the long legs so please overlook them.


I am confused as the schematics that is posted look different to what the pictures Ranjib posted. If something is wrong, please inform me.. thanks everyone

 

[therootcause]

I can't speak to the orientation but it looks like you are doing a fine job. The desoldering kits and mesh wick at harbor freight are cheap. The good news is everything that is soldered can be unsoldered. I have used fingernail clippers to snip the long pins...just don't use a good set that you would like to use again for nails.

 

[Sral]

Hey guys!


Being someone that works the night shift, I normally have all the time in the world to learn stuff. As I have never soldered before and I want to make sure what I have done looks good. I do not want to put power though the board without making sure everything is in place.. I know it's probably stupid to learn how to solder on a project like this but hey, I do stupid stuff. I believe I did a okay job . This board is just a test Unless everything goes well I plan on buying another one and redoing it. I currently do not have any cutting pliers small enough to cut the long legs so please overlook them.


I am confused as the schematics that is posted look different to what the pictures Ranjib posted. If something is wrong, please inform me.. thanks everyone

Looks good from my side as well. I think the difference might be purely optical, since Ranjib used a DIP18 socket (with 18 legs, or 9 per side) and you used a DIP20 socket (with 20 legs, or 10 per side).

Another thing is that you are using the EEPROM-Version of the board. Not sure of that's a problem though.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Looks good from my side as well. I think the difference might be purely optical, since Ranjib used a DIP18 socket (with 18 legs, or 9 per side) and you used a DIP20 socket (with 20 legs, or 10 per side).

Another thing is that you are using the EEPROM-Version of the board. Not sure of that's a problem though.

I saw that too.. but I really do not think it matters the number of legs per side as I do not have anything soldered to them.. but I am a noob.. in the pictures that Ranjib posted he has the EEPROM version of the board if you are talking about the stuff in the corner.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

well, broke the Dip chip legs the other night and I also ran into a problem where something was smoking. Unsure where at because I didn't have much time to look.. ordered 2 ULN2803's just in case. where do you all believe is the best place to buy electronic stuff like this besides Adafruit? Will keep everyone updated ...

 

[Hugo_Fish]

I also forgot to mention that I also order the non-EEPROM-Version of the board which should be here Monday.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

when doing this project... always make sure the converter output is 5v and read what Ranijb states... -.-.. burnt 2 Pis because they were set to the max. lucky for me I have about 10 Pi's sitting around because of past projects. I went and bought modules with a screen on them, these were the ones I bought (LM2596 with LED Display Voltmeter) very helpful. Almost had a couple of fires. Hopefully will have the power controller part finished by tonight and move on to the temp.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

So, took the time to put everything in the case.. I'm going cto upgrade the Pi to a 5 once completed. I'm hoping I can find one when they come out. .. currently the Pi I have do not have WIFI and to be honest I rather hard line it to a mini router thus I can have more control. Here is a picture of the case without wiring .

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Finished the Temp and water level! My suggestion is to Hardwire the temp to the board as the pi will crash if disconnected. It would be nice to be able to use a headphone jack but I do not see a reason to use one if it's going to crash.

 

[StatelineReefer]

well, broke the Dip chip legs the other night and I also ran into a problem where something was smoking. Unsure where at because I didn't have much time to look.. ordered 2 ULN2803's just in case. where do you all believe is the best place to buy electronic stuff like this besides Adafruit? Will keep everyone updated ...

Mouser. They're going to be a reliable supply of electronics components. They're who I use because it's literally a one stop 'This is all the components on my build sheet' shop.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Nice, going to look them up right now! was about to push the "Place my order" button on Adafruit and Amazon so I could start the lighting part! Might take a break after the lights and start looking at getting the tank as I do not believe I really need a PH and Dosing mod just yet... thinking about the 6-gallon Reefcasa. I really should go after something bigger but I really do not want to get questioned by the landlord... they are such a buzzkill ...

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Hey guys ! I actually going to go with Pi Zero's as they are cheap and already have Wifi if I want to use it in the future. Since I was using Rasp Pi 2s is there anything I need to be aware of when switching the hat from one to another? I believe there will not be a problem as I am using the Same SD card just want to make sure as I do most of my work at night and the best place in the world, Walmart closes at 11pm...

 

[Sral]

Hey guys ! I actually going to go with Pi Zero's as they are cheap and already have Wifi if I want to use it in the future. Since I was using Rasp Pi 2s is there anything I need to be aware of when switching the hat from one to another? I believe there will not be a problem as I am using the Same SD card just want to make sure as I do most of my work at night and the best place in the world, Walmart closes at 11pm...

I think the HAT will not care as the Pin header is standardized. The Operating System on the SD-card might, although they might also be perfectly compatible as well. Since the PI Zero W (note: there are versions without „W“ that have NO WiFi) has a smaller processor, one typically uses the Raspbian OS Lite , which does not provide a graphical interface to keep the processor load down.

Maybe you already know the process , but @robsworld78 has provided a nice manual here

 

[Hugo_Fish]

I think the HAT will not care as the Pin header is standardized. The Operating System on the SD-card might, although they might also be perfectly compatible as well. Since the PI Zero W (note: there are versions without „W“ that have NO WiFi) has a smaller processor, one typically uses the Raspbian OS Lite , which does not provide a graphical interface to keep the processor load down.

Maybe you already know the process , but @robsworld78 has provided a nice manual here

Oh yeah I'm using rasp os lite.. I have Reef-pi running on the pi2 so I can test my work... Lol happy I did... As i Shorted and burnt like 3 out of my 10 pi2 I own XD. As for wifi idk yet if I will connect it that way.. I think I rather hard wire it to a router so I can set up redundancy ... Like for my Pi-hole I'm using a GL.iNet GL-SFT1200 which can support the use cellular towers.. redundancy is what I'm looking for..

 

[Sral]

Oh yeah I'm using rasp os lite.. I have Reef-pi running on the pi2 so I can test my work... Lol happy I did... As i Shorted and burnt like 3 out of my 10 pi2 I own XD. As for wifi idk yet if I will connect it that way.. I think I rather hard wire it to a router so I can set up redundancy ... Like for my Pi-hole I'm using a GL.iNet GL-SFT1200 which can support the use cellular towers.. redundancy is what I'm looking for..

Hm, well … the PI Zero W doesn’t have that redundancy natively, since there isn’t an Ethernet port, only one micro USB and an HDMI. You would either need an Ethernet adapter on the USB or one of the communication pins (SPI,UART,I2C, etc.).
In that regard a PI 3/4 with both WiFi and Ethernet might be slightly superior.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Hm, well … the PI Zero W doesn’t have that redundancy natively, since there isn’t an Ethernet port, only one micro USB and an HDMI. You would either need an Ethernet adapter on the USB or one of the communication pins (SPI,UART,I2C, etc.).
In that regard a PI 3/4 with both WiFi and Ethernet might be slightly superior.

Wow, I had to look at the pi again, I'm currently at work.. I believe I was thinking about the pi2 .. meh well, it's going to be wifi lol ... At least the router has redundancy options..

 

[Sral]

Wow, I had to look at the pi again, I'm currently at work.. I believe I was thinking about the pi2 .. meh well, it's going to be wifi lol ... At least the router has redundancy options..

I tried a USB Ethernet hub for the micro-USB port as you can see Here in my build thread.

Did kind of work, but I had quite a few issues with this, as the hub draws a lot of current (>200mA in operation and startup and who knows how much in the short spikes) … seemed that the PI didn’t like that very much.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Do not have pictures.. but almost finished the light mod. With what I learned from this project is create the opportunity to disconnect wires in the case. I see why he uses the Jumper wires and pins, but I believe for the next version I'm going to use wire connectors to every part that connects to the case. As for my opinion of the controller, If you are more hands on and love the ability to make stuff yourself and do not mind spending money, then this is a project for you. If not, buy one already premade. I have already spend so much on parts more then what its worth. But I am having fun making stuff work.

 

[RedoubtReef]

So, took the time to put everything in the case.. I'm going cto upgrade the Pi to a 5 once completed. I'm hoping I can find one when they come out. .. currently the Pi I have do not have WIFI and to be honest I rather hard line it to a mini router thus I can have more control. Here is a picture of the case without wiring .

Are those Bob Ross boxers??

 

[Hugo_Fish]

I tried a USB Ethernet hub for the micro-USB port as you can see Here in my build thread.

Did kind of work, but I had quite a few issues with this, as the hub draws a lot of current (>200mA in operation and startup and who knows how much in the short spikes) … seemed that the PI didn’t like that very much.

I bought a USB ethernet port as the Zeros where never able to connect to my wifi after configured them with my wifi...