Best solenoid valves to use

[CEReefer]

Hi everyone! I am getting a new solenoid for my RO/DI, when they operate they get really hot, causing the plastic to eventually brittle and break, so I am trying to get something of good quality. I started searching online, and found that specialized websites have crazy expensive valves, what's different between those and the 30$ ones that BRS or any other store in the hobby carries? Is it worth the expense?

Link to an example of the expensive stuff:

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-PVC-Solenoid-Valve-4GPP9

 

[Saltyreef]

Well 1st off its grainger....
They mark their prices up 30% already because big companies buy from them mostly.
We have an account at work and even our special prices are way over priced.

Also, stay away from "grainger approved"
Since most arent branded unless you search.

How about something like this?

1/4'' 120V AC Push Connect Plastic Solenoid Valve

This 1/4" 120V AC plastic push to connect solenoid valves are an ideal solution for when you need a quick connecting 120 volt 1/4" solenoid valve.

www.electricsolenoidvalves.com

This company only sells solenoid valves lol.

 

[CEReefer]

Well 1st off its grainger....
They mark their prices up 30% already because big companies buy from them mostly.
We have an account at work and even our special prices are way over priced.

Also, stay away from "grainger approved"
Since most arent branded unless you search.

How about something like this?

1/4'' 120V AC Push Connect Plastic Solenoid Valve

This 1/4" 120V AC plastic push to connect solenoid valves are an ideal solution for when you need a quick connecting 120 volt 1/4" solenoid valve.

www.electricsolenoidvalves.com

This company only sells solenoid valves lol.

My point though is, are we getting sold bad stuff? I don't want to buy a valve that brittles after a while due to the heat, neither I want to replace a valve every year!

I am left with either a very good quality solenoid valve (so that it doesn't brittle and break) or a motorized ball valve (so that it is not continuously powered), it seems like you are in the field, what do you suggest?

 

[Saltyreef]

N

My point though is, are we getting sold bad stuff? I don't want to buy a valve that brittles after a while due to the heat, neither I want to replace a valve every year!

I am left with either a very good quality solenoid valve (so that it doesn't brittle and break) or a motorized ball valve (so that it is not continuously powered), it seems like you are in the field, what do you suggest?

Not bad stuff, but priced accordingly if that makes sense.
You get what you pay for.
The solenoid valve you showed could be a quality unit. You can look for the same one elsewhere.

As far as name brands go, ASCO Redhat is at the top of the list for solenoids.
You would have to find a plastic housing though.

 

[ca1ore]

I've had pretty good success with the stainless ones from autotopoff.com

 

[CEReefer]

I've had pretty good success with the stainless ones from autotopoff.com

Doesn't stainless steel get corroded by RODI?

 

[ca1ore]

I suppose it depends where you locate it. Mine is ahead of the RODI.

 

[CEReefer]

I suppose it depends where you locate it. Mine is ahead of the RODI.

True, it is ahead of the RO/DI, sorry.

 

[Tastee]

Doesn't stainless steel get corroded by RODI?

I’m interested in this question - why would purer H2O be more corrosive than H2O that contains lots of other elements (I.e. tap water)?

It’s a bit of an academic question as like others my solenoids are before the RO membrane (one to turn on the tap supply and the other as a flush valve after the carbon) but I would have thought that ‘purer’ H2O would be less corrosive not more. Oxidisation is caused by unstable compounds like NaCl and H2O is quite stable.

 

[Saltyreef]

I’m interested in this question - why would purer H2O be more corrosive than H2O that contains lots of other elements (I.e. tap water)?

It’s a bit of an academic question as like others my solenoids are before the RO membrane (one to turn on the tap supply and the other as a flush valve after the carbon) but I would have thought that ‘purer’ H2O would be less corrosive not more. Oxidisation is caused by unstable compounds like NaCl and H2O is quite stable.

DI water is Deionized and without ions it becomes more corrosive.
I believe nickel plate is one of the more durable coatings to resist the solvent like nature of DI water.

And remember, scale and corrosion are different.

 

[ca1ore]

It was explained to me years ago ....

Water is considered to be the universal solvent. The less stuff that it already dissolved in it, the greater the capacity to dissolve new stuff.

 

[Saltyreef]

It was explained to me years ago ....

Water is considered to be the universal solvent. The less stuff that it already dissolved in it, the greater the capacity to dissolve new stuff.

Yessir. Hungry water lol.

I actually exclusively drink distilled water now.

What Doctors say about Drinking Distilled Water - World Of Water Winnipeg | Bottled Water Company & More

What 24 Doctors say about drinking Distilled Water.

www.worldofwater.ca

 

[Tastee]

DI water is Deionized and without ions it becomes more corrosive.
I believe nickel plate is one of the more durable coatings to resist the solvent like nature of DI water.

And remember, scale and corrosion are different.

Thanks for the explanation, much appreciated.

 

[Greybeard]

Back to the original question... I'm an industrial software engineer. We use solenoids all the time. I must say, the cheap solenoids available and commonly used within this hobby, are junk. Every, single, one. Never seen one that you can rely on long term.

I quit using them.

Try this:

Motorized Ball Valve- 1/4" Stainless Steel Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V DC and 2 Wire Auto Return Setup by U.S. Solid

Simple 2 wire Motorized ball valve 9V, 12V to 24V, Auto Return Model is ideal for those that need Normally Closed valves. Easily wired to a simple on off switch, with fail safe auto-return. Great for home water systems.

ussolid.com

A two wire electric ball valve. When it's powered, it's open. Drawing very little power, it stays open. Doesn't get hot, etc. Drop power, it closes. Even if it's due to a power failure, no power, it returns to it's closed position.

IMHO, Perfect for most RO system usage... relatively inexpensive, and DEAD RELIABLE.

 

[Ryan Hunter]

Check out WIC Valves, I have had good luck with them, not the cheapest but also not crazy expensive.

 

[CEReefer]

Back to the original question... I'm an industrial software engineer. We use solenoids all the time. I must say, the cheap solenoids available and commonly used within this hobby, are junk. Every, single, one. Never seen one that you can rely on long term.

I quit using them.

Try this:

Motorized Ball Valve- 1/4" Stainless Steel Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V DC and 2 Wire Auto Return Setup by U.S. Solid

Simple 2 wire Motorized ball valve 9V, 12V to 24V, Auto Return Model is ideal for those that need Normally Closed valves. Easily wired to a simple on off switch, with fail safe auto-return. Great for home water systems.

ussolid.com

A two wire electric ball valve. When it's powered, it's open. Drawing very little power, it stays open. Doesn't get hot, etc. Drop power, it closes. Even if it's due to a power failure, no power, it returns to it's closed position.

IMHO, Perfect for most RO system usage... relatively inexpensive, and DEAD RELIABLE.

Oh thank you so much for this! I feel the same, motorized is way superior. I was looking at those or https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=114845

 

[CEReefer]

I just couldn’t find out which materials are wet on those Banjo valves

 

[Greybeard]

Oh thank you so much for this! I feel the same, motorized is way superior. I was looking at those or https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=114845

Happy to help.

I've got 3 of those 1/4" ball valves in service, just bought another one for a friend's system I'm helping with. Dead reliable, easy to drive... wish they made an all plastic version, but I'm not one to worry much about stainless.

A pair of John Guest SKU PP010822WP might help get 'em installed :D

 

[CEReefer]

Happy to help.

I've got 3 of those 1/4" ball valves in service, just bought another one for a friend's system I'm helping with. Dead reliable, easy to drive... wish they made an all plastic version, but I'm not one to worry much about stainless.

A pair of John Guest SKU PP010822WP might help get 'em installed :D

Are you not worried about rusting? I was more inclined towards a plastic valve (like the o e I linked above), even though they are obviously a tinch more expensive

 

[Greybeard]

Are you not worried about rusting? I was more inclined towards a plastic valve (like the o e I linked above), even though they are obviously a tinch more expensive

From the US Plastics Link:
"Features a 316 stainless steel ball & stem, with stainless steel hardware"

So... if one's gonna rust, so will the other.

But, in truth, no, I'm not. Don't run salt water through them... no telling what that'd do, but tap water? My house uses iron pipe, for crying out loud :D. A stainless valve?

Now... after the RO/DI unit? That's a bit more questionable. Some debate on it. Me? I've been using one of these after my DI unit to limit risk of flooding in my sump room for years. No problems... and I regularly do ICP/OES testing of both the tank water and the source water. If there's anything leaching, ATI's ICP analysis can't detect it.