Hello I'm new to saltwater tanks I have a bio cube 29, 20 lbs live sand, 11 lbs live rock. This is just day three of the tank being up and running I also got the salt water from the store right out of their tank my question is I've tested the water the nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia all read 0 the ph reads 8 my hydrometer is reading 1.025. Are these readings good
Bio cube 29
- Thread starter michaust
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samba_dad
Active Member
Well it means your tank has not cycled. So you will need to get a chilled shrimp from your grocery store and toss it in there for a few weeks until you get a sizable ammonia measurement. This will be followed by spikes in nitrite and measurable nitrate. Once ammonia and nitrite go back to zero your tank will be cycled.
It will be important to not put any fish in your tank for 6 weeks. The reason why is the water came straight from their tank and their fish could have ick - a common parasite. Six weeks will be enough time to ensure the parasite has died because it does not have a host.
Are you planning a reef tank or a fish only tank? If you are doing fish only sounds like you are in good shape.
Good luck! Make sure to check your fish compatibility on R2R to avoid issues in your tank.
It will be important to not put any fish in your tank for 6 weeks. The reason why is the water came straight from their tank and their fish could have ick - a common parasite. Six weeks will be enough time to ensure the parasite has died because it does not have a host.
Are you planning a reef tank or a fish only tank? If you are doing fish only sounds like you are in good shape.
Good luck! Make sure to check your fish compatibility on R2R to avoid issues in your tank.
samba_dad
Active Member
I agree with ditching the bio balls the live rock is your biological filter now.
Next concern would be if they have copper medication in the water. Copper kills coral. Do you happen to have a copper test kit? You should also ask the store if they keep copper in their tank water even at therapeutic levels. The copper can be fairly rapidly absorbed into your rock and sand. If they have used copper we will need to see if anyone else on the forum has experience removing it from rock and sand.
A pair of clowns will be awesome in that tank. A flame angelfish would do better in a bigger tank and will pick at your corals. Other good options for that size tank include a Midas Blenny, Royal gramma, firefish goby, bangai cardinal, and Pseudochromis. I would go to either www.liveaquaria.com or www.vividaquariums.com and look for reef compatible, social fish that are recommended for 30 or less gallons. Also post questions about the fish you are wanting to add to R2R and you will get excellent feedback.
Good luck to you.
Next concern would be if they have copper medication in the water. Copper kills coral. Do you happen to have a copper test kit? You should also ask the store if they keep copper in their tank water even at therapeutic levels. The copper can be fairly rapidly absorbed into your rock and sand. If they have used copper we will need to see if anyone else on the forum has experience removing it from rock and sand.
A pair of clowns will be awesome in that tank. A flame angelfish would do better in a bigger tank and will pick at your corals. Other good options for that size tank include a Midas Blenny, Royal gramma, firefish goby, bangai cardinal, and Pseudochromis. I would go to either www.liveaquaria.com or www.vividaquariums.com and look for reef compatible, social fish that are recommended for 30 or less gallons. Also post questions about the fish you are wanting to add to R2R and you will get excellent feedback.
Good luck to you.
If you use liverock you don't need to use a shrimp to cycle, just let the LR do it for you.
Can you post up a clear pic of your hitchhiker but it sounds like a bristle star to me.
Keep testing every day on ammonia (NH3) and nitrite (No2) <<<
@redfishbluefish Why you using water from the LFS straight out of his tank??
Maybe I can see it to cycle your tank faster but all the good stuff is on your LR not in your water.
Next water you want new mixed saltwater and ask him if you can test the RODI water what they using for it, it needs to be 0 TDS or very close to that but not higher than 0.03 TDS.
Yes that's a Brittle star, turn lights off and it will feast on your shrimp no kidding!!
TDS = Total Dissolved Solids
RODI = Reverse Osmosis and Deionization
no kidding!!TDS = Total Dissolved Solids
RODI = Reverse Osmosis and Deionization
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- Start the cycle: DO NOT ADD LIVE ANIMALS. All you need is a pinch of fish food or an uncooked table shrimp. The table shrimp works because you can monitor its progress as it rots.
Section 5: The Cycle
image via rusticgirls
In a freshwater aquarium you can add some flake food, wait a couple weeks, and then you can add fish. In the ocean there is much more involved than mechanical filtration. In fact, 70% of your aquariums filtration relies on the maturity of the live rock. A combination of bacteria, algae, and various invertebrates compose the “live” part of the rock. It takes quite a while to establish an ecosystem, even on a microscopic level. Without a proper understanding of the Marine Cycle, you will be in for a long term battle with parameters and algae. There are six main stages to a properly cycled tank. Follow this guide and you cannot mess up. You will need your basic test kit to test the progress.
Stage 1: Ammonia Cycle
Ammonia is the first thing that forms when something rots. It is a waste product in nearly all creatures as well. Instead of using a fish to start the cycle just use some food. Anything that is all natural and uncooked works just fine. Table shrimp that is uncooked works great. Drop it on the sand so it is in view. The shrimp should begin to rot within a couple hours or more. Let this shrimp rot until it is completely gone. If you are curious what your ammonia levels are, go ahead and take some tests. Keep track of the results as the shrimp rots. The smaller the food gets the more ammonia should be present in your water column and pretty soon should be off the charts. This will stay high for a while, but then start to drop. As soon as the ammonia starts to drop you will see a rise in Nitrite, you are now on the next stage.
Stage 2: Nitrite Cycle
Ammonia when broken down by bacteria becomes Nitrite, which is still a toxin. As your Nitrites rise your Ammonia will drop, drop, and keep dropping as long as you haven’t added any animals. Keep up with testing to observe your progress. Eventually your Ammonia will be very low and your nitrites will peak out until it starts feeding a different type of bacteria that turns it into Nitrates. Once your first signs of Nitrates are seen you are on the next stage.
Stage 3: Nitrate Cycle
Nitrates are removed within the live rock deep inside in all of the deep pours. This hidden bacteria consumes the nitrate and creates nitrogen gas as a byproduct. The nitrogen gas rises in the water column and escapes into the air. When one gas leave, another enters. Oxygen is then infused into the water. After the Nitrates start to dissipate your oxygen will increase and you will be ready for the intermission:
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