Bio Pellet..which one..how many ?

[Pellaeon]

Alright, I have a major macro algae problem in my frag tank, with a bit of hair algae in the main tank. While the Nitrates arent reading om my test kit, I do see a trace of phosphates.

It was suggested to me that a Bio Pellet reactor just might help, so I figure, what the heck, lets give it a go.

I have a 54 and 40 gallon going into a 20 gallon sump. In the sump is a reef octopus 2000 so I hope these things can sit outside the sump. I have an unused Eheim 1250 (300 gph) that I hope I can use with this reactor.

So I guess the question is, which brand of these reactors would you go with ? Which model given my tanks (about 80 gallons of water) ? Which bio pellets, and how many of these bio pellets am I supposed to put in these chambers given my water volume.

The 54 gallon has about 6 fish, the 40 gallon has 4 fish. Both are stocked with LPS and Zoas. Med-Heavy coral load. I am hoping that something like this might also help me a bit with SPS which I have never successfully been able to keep.

I was looking at maybe this one ?

AVAST Marine Works - MR10 Media Reactor - Product Details

Also

Super Reef Octopus BR110 Biopellet Reactor - AquaCave

or

NextReef SMR1 Solid Media Reactors Reviews

 

[Mr.Firemouth]

I'd save some money and use the 2 little fishes 550 reactor.
I'd use a pump that can push 400gph.
I would recommend Phosballs by Sea-slug because they do not clump and tumble nicely compared to other brands.

 

[kingfisherfleshy]

Just ordered the avast one...Mine was cheap (Less than $80, shipped), made in america, by a site sponsor, and WAY bigger than the 550.

Havent used it yet...but I made my decision based on the above.

 

[kmay]

I just set up a TLF 150 yesterday for my 90 gallon. It was sooo easy to set up and i am using bulk GFO from Premium Aquatics. I am using a Rio 800 pump (on clearance at Premium Aquatics) and have to use the included ball valve to crank it down a little. All looks good and was less than $65 with a pound of GFO.

 

[Mr.Firemouth]

I am hoping that something like this might also help me a bit with SPS which I have never successfully been able to keep.

This is a problem. You may want to test your source water with a TDS digital meter and find out what you are actually putting into your tank.

Do you use RO/DI, or Tap water, or store bought water?
It is really possible that your source water is the true root of all your problems.

 

[Pellaeon]

This is a problem. You may want to test your source water with a TDS digital meter and find out what you are actually putting into your tank.

Do you use RO/DI, or Tap water, or store bought water?
It is really possible that your source water is the true root of all your problems.

My TDS meter on my RO/DI is reading 220ppm in from the tap, 0 ppm out. I got the 4 canister SpectraPure unit.

 

[Mr.Firemouth]

My TDS meter on my RO/DI is reading 220ppm in from the tap, 0 ppm out. I got the 4 canister SpectraPure unit.

I don't like to rely on the TDS meters that come with the RO units. I prefer to use a separate TDS pen probe. I strongly suggest that you buy one or borrow a friends and retest the RO/DI output water. The reason I suspect the source water is that if all other parameters are acceptable you should be able to keep SPS alive.
To recap~
Alk-10dkh is ideal
Ca-above 400ppm less than 500ppm
MG-1350ppm or higher
PO4 as low as possible, try to test with a photometer
NO3 as low as possible
regular water changes of at least 30 percent monthly.
Also, try using some Chemi-pure to help reduce dissolved organics

Lighting will have more to do with affecting colors and growth rates.
Can't wait to see how all this turns out. :)

 

[Pellaeon]

Thanks Firemouth, I will rerun my tests today and share some pics. Also I will go ahead and order a TDS pen today, they seem pretty cheap. My goal will be to buy an SPS by the end of February (the test subject).

My Calcium, I dont know if I just cant read the darn Salifert test kits has always been above 500ppm. I dont know if I am getting to big of a bubble in my syringe or just what.

 

[jledon4]

the salifert test kit is a really easy one to use, for me the easiest. maybe you're not doing it right, first add the 2ml then a spoon of the reagent (make sure that it's a level spoonful) and without swirling add the 8 drops of the other agent, after this swirl it for around 30 seconds. the next agent would be the one with the red top, place the tip on the 1 ml syringe and take it up to 1 ml (don't worry about the air bubble, it is the amount of air that was inside the tip). after this, slowly add, drop by drop, from the 1 ml syringe to the mix. the first color change should be purple, the next drop will make it turn blue. after this read your syringe and compare it to the table. good luck.