Bashsea Bio Space Reactors - Everything you need to know!

[DetroitReefClub]

You've probably seen alot of coverage on the new Bio Space Reactor Line from Bashsea, but we found alot of customers coming into the store don't have a great understanding on it, so I wanted to make this thread to share some insight, and be available for questions from the community!
As most of you probably know, Detroit Reef Club is located at the Bashsea World HQ in Ferndale, Mi, and we've been using Bio Reactors for YEARS, and the Bio Space Reactors for a couple years.
Both machines are version of the same thing, so I'll start with that: It's Biological Filtration; what does that mean? Having a Bio Reactor or Bio Space Reactor is a highly engineered solution that's is the equivalent of adding a tank full of live rock to you system - one with fantastic flow.
It adds margin to everything you do. You can process more nutrients, quicker.

The Bio Space Reactor isn't intended to replace the Bio Reactor, but provide a simpler, more "plug and play" way to achieve similar results, in a smaller pacakage, but for very large systems, or set ups where space isn't a concern, I still prefer the oxygen injection of the Original Bio Space Line.
I think it's important to note with the volume/tank size recommendations attached to the products: this is not like a Skimmer, where an appropriately sized skimmer is important, and highly over sizing can be counter productive - at the end of the day, the wider foot print you can fit in the space you're trying to fit, the more beneficial.
I've ran them on tanks as small as an AIO 15 with tremendous results! Here is the Peninsula 25 Gallon at our shop that is running with nothing but an ATO & A Bio Reactor.


Still has some growing in to do, but a cool tank for sure, and very stable with nothing but a quick water change roughly 1x per week!

It's an awesome piece of equipment - one example of a really beneficial use case we came up with was upgrading/moving/setting up a new tank. If you have a bioreactor that's been running on your existing tank, even if you're starting with all new everything, like for example changing out the rock structure after being in the hobby longer and no longer liking you're intro rock structure - being able to get the bio reactor up and running right away, would start you off with an aquarium capable of processing ammonia with no wait time!

I'm sure there is more I will come up with to say, but for now I"m going to leave a link to our page on Bio Space Reactors:

Bio Space Reactor | Detroit Reef Club

Major Biological Filtration in a small compact package.

detroitreefclub.com

And encourage questions from anyone curious about these reactors!

 

[Genvid]

I’m looking at the 225-gallon reactor; will I need anything else to run it, or does it come as a complete, plug-and-play unit?

 

[DetroitReefClub]

I’m looking at the 225-gallon reactor; will I need anything else to run it, or does it come as a complete, plug-and-play unit?

You do need a pump, and tubing - The Sicce 2.0 is the recommended pump size for 6-2!
If you order a 2.0 and Media Reactor I'll include our high quality black vinyl tubing for in & out at no charge, just put a note in the order comments, "tubing included per Zach R2R"

 

[Tyler929]

I just bought a bio space reactor and placed it into my sump. Is there any tips or tricks to get the media tumbling?

 

[DetroitReefClub]

I just bought a bio space reactor and placed it into my sump. Is there any tips or tricks to get the media tumbling?

No worries! The new virgin media will take a few days to permeate with water and start tumbling correctly!

 

[choco24]

I’m tired of my clutter sump and all the detritus that seats in it bcs I have about 5/6 large bioblocks and bioballs and of course some rocks to go with it making very uncomfortable to clean and get to things down there… if I wanted a clean sump and remove all the above on my 250 including sump water volume, will the

BioSpace Reactor 6-3 (6" x 27") Up to 300 Gallons - Bashsea…… replace all my beneficial bacteria I currently have in my sump? I really want it cleaner…. Thanks​

 

[DeepBlueBox]

Really interested in getting one of these for my new tank build. Display will be 218g and sump 74 gallons before displacement. Are these designed to be plumbed into your return plumbing off of a manifold, or is it best to have a dedicated pump for the reactor? How much does flow rate matter for these?

 

[Gonkers]

Really interested in getting one of these for my new tank build. Display will be 218g and sump 74 gallons before displacement. Are these designed to be plumbed into your return plumbing off of a manifold, or is it best to have a dedicated pump for the reactor? How much does flow rate matter for these?

I had pretty much the same questions. I'm fairly new to the hobby and I'm starting to build my second setup. I just learned about the existence of these the other day and I found them intriguing. I hope someone can shed more light on them.

 

[DetroitReefClub]

I’m tired of my clutter sump and all the detritus that seats in it bcs I have about 5/6 large bioblocks and bioballs and of course some rocks to go with it making very uncomfortable to clean and get to things down there… if I wanted a clean sump and remove all the above on my 250 including sump water volume, will the

BioSpace Reactor 6-3 (6" x 27") Up to 300 Gallons - Bashsea…… replace all my beneficial bacteria I currently have in my sump? I really want it cleaner…. Thanks​

Oh man, it would replace it, and MORE, if your bio bricks are covered in detritus, how much healthy bacteria do you think lives there? the answer is very little, and this is what happens with all "surface area" solutions that don't move.

 

[DetroitReefClub]

Really interested in getting one of these for my new tank build. Display will be 218g and sump 74 gallons before displacement. Are these designed to be plumbed into your return plumbing off of a manifold, or is it best to have a dedicated pump for the reactor? How much does flow rate matter for these?

So, I don't believe that there is anything on the equipment side that would make something more or less suited to run off a manifold.
My personal feeling is: The most important thing to me on each piece of equipment that I am running is peak performance - pumps degrade, pumps change, they get clogged up, etc. I would rather have a seperate pump for each, that is the manufacturer recommended pump, mainly because I know this is what the product was tested out, and ran with over and over and over and over and over, and what the equipment was designed to work perfectly with, a manifold to me presents alot of variables, on most my systems, I wouldn't want to give up any return pressure as the pump is sized to be running at like, 65-70%, max, to give me the turn around rate I want without undue stress on the pump, but I'm sure some one with a really strong understanding of pressurization, and plumbing could tell me how to run a manifold perfectly, and set up flow meters and all that - just not in my wheel house.
Make sense?

 

[DetroitReefClub]

Alittle more info from Zach & Gianluca talking Bio Space Reactors

 

[choco24]

Oh man, it would replace it, and MORE, if your bio bricks are covered in detritus, how much healthy bacteria do you think lives there? the answer is very little, and this is what happens with all "surface area" solutions that don't move.

Once i introduce this to my tank, can I start removing the blocks one by one or can I pull them all off after the reactor has seeded for 2 weeks or so?

 

[fishface NJ]

You are going to want to seed it first. It needs to go through the biological process.

 

[DetroitReefClub]

Once i introduce this to my tank, can I start removing the blocks one by one or can I pull them all off after the reactor has seeded for 2 weeks or so?

Once i introduce this to my tank, can I start removing the blocks one by one or can I pull them all off after the reactor has seeded for 2 weeks or so?

This is really a product of what your bricks are doing - if they’re covered in healthy bacteria that your reef relies on, a few weeks of transition could be very beneficial before removing.
It certainly takes some time for the bio reactor to be effectively cultured, but if you’re experiencing substantial detritus build up in/on/under the bio bricks currently, the chance that your bricks are cultured with healthy bacteria are low and likely not offering any net positive to the system.
I’d go based on visual inspection - if the bricks still look like significant healthy, fairly clean surface area, I’d transition.
If their area of my sump looks more like a dead zone graphic detritus, I’d rather just ditch em personally

 

[Abrfrie88]

How long does it take to seed the bacteria if im adding it to an established system? I’m planning on setting one of these up on my current system so I can just move it over to my new system once it’s up and running in a month. Is a month enough time that when I run it on a new system it’ll have enough bacteria?

 

[DetroitReefClub]

How long does it take to seed the bacteria if im adding it to an established system? I’m planning on setting one of these up on my current system so I can just move it over to my new system once it’s up and running in a month. Is a month enough time that when I run it on a new system it’ll have enough bacteria?

If you’re building the new aquascape from dry rock, I would love to see that sit for 2 months from brand new as the first couple weeks are degassing the media mostly.
If you’re looking to go quicker, and want either blue or red color, I could do preseeded media for you on the reactor from our systems.

 

[MKReefGuy]

I’ve been keeping my eye on these. I have an IM 170 INT with the RFS50 sump. Total water volume is around 200 gallons. Should I got with the 6-2 or 6-3? I have quite a bit of live rock in my display and sump, as well as various glass and ceramic biomedia. Does the Sicce 2.0 still work with the 6-3? Is that it, pump and tubing and let it run?

 

[DetroitReefClub]

I’ve been keeping my eye on these. I have an IM 170 INT with the RFS50 sump. Total water volume is around 200 gallons. Should I got with the 6-2 or 6-3? I have quite a bit of live rock in my display and sump, as well as various glass and ceramic biomedia. Does the Sicce 2.0 still work with the 6-3? Is that it, pump and tubing and let it run?

The thing is on volume for these guys; the more the better. Like, you could run a 6-3 on a 20 gallon tank and it would work really well, it's not like a skimmer where you don't wanna overdo it.
Yes - Reactor + Pump + tubing - if you order the pump and reactor from our website, I'll throw in black vinyl tubing with it free! Sicce 2.0 is also the correct pump for a 6-3, yes!

 

[LIReefer]

This is great information. Glad this post is here! My plan is to pick up (2) 8-30 BioSpace Reactors for my 500g + system. My system was originally started as reef approx 15 years ago. Recently I have massive Vermetid snail problem that has decimated my coral growth. I have some pretty large fish in the system that have been with me for many years and I’m trying not to break down the system to get rid of my snail issue. So my plan is to slowly replace my current rock and build a more minimal aquascape giving my fish more room to swim and for corals to grow. The goal is to build it back to a thriving reef.

If anyone has done anything similar to this, do you have any tips on the best approach? I know this will take time and believe the Bashsea product is my solution to get this done.

Thoughts?

-Ed

 

[DetroitReefClub]

This is great information. Glad this post is here! My plan is to pick up (2) 8-30 BioSpace Reactors for my 500g + system. My system was originally started as reef approx 15 years ago. Recently I have massive Vermetid snail problem that has decimated my coral growth. I have some pretty large fish in the system that have been with me for many years and I’m trying not to break down the system to get rid of my snail issue. So my plan is to slowly replace my current rock and build a more minimal aquascape giving my fish more room to swim and for corals to grow. The goal is to build it back to a thriving reef.

If anyone has done anything similar to this, do you have any tips on the best approach? I know this will take time and believe the Bashsea product is my solution to get this done.

Thoughts?

-Ed

First: Get 100+ Bumble Bee Snails in there to decimate the Vermitid snails! They're great predators of them, once the vermicide are gone, they're great clean up crew, and tremendous at getting into crevices, and with that kind of quantity, They come to about $1.52 each from our website, only $1.29 Each for club members! We have them in stock!

They will kill them, and stop new ones from coming, but won't get rid of the calcium "tubes" for you, so you may still want to replace some rock.
I would build the shape you want with reef safe mortar and dry rock to get that NSA look you want. I live to cut the bottom rock totally flat so I don't have alot of detritus trap spots underneath, and then I would run that rock in your sump for a month or so out of light to coat with biofilm before introducing so you don't have an algae issue.