Blitzkragz' 12ft 375g rimless peninsula with rotary drum filter build

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That is a fascinating idea -- if i did it though I would want to follow a strict recipe. If I had a standard bottle of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide you can get at the drug store, how much of that would you add per gallon of saltwater, and then how long would you let it sit?

If i had a 5 gallon bucket with chaeto in it id probably add 100 ml of 3% grocery store peroxide and let it sit for 12 hours. If no change to the hair alge id add another 100ml and wait 12 hours. Youll find your sweet spot to kill it. Iirc algae barn washes their algae in peroxide. @AlgaeBarn
 

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The tank is looking great! Are you still unhappy with the gyre pumps at the end of the tank? Years ago I was involved in the planning of some large aquariums and came across the panta rhei ecm powerheads (https://uniquecorals.com/products/panta-rhei-ecm-63-hydrowizard-in-stock?variant=5730538061862). They push an amazing amount of water and may allow you to hide powerheads on one end of the aquarium.

With having such low nutrients due to filtration have you thought of feeding 24-36hr old gut loaded (with phytoplankton) brine shrimp? I used to feed this 2x a week in my 180g and saw phenomenal growth rates from all my corals.

Just a few thoughts, keep up the great work!
 
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blitzkragz

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The tank is looking great! Are you still unhappy with the gyre pumps at the end of the tank? Years ago I was involved in the planning of some large aquariums and came across the panta rhei ecm powerheads (https://uniquecorals.com/products/panta-rhei-ecm-63-hydrowizard-in-stock?variant=5730538061862). They push an amazing amount of water and may allow you to hide powerheads on one end of the aquarium.

With having such low nutrients due to filtration have you thought of feeding 24-36hr old gut loaded (with phytoplankton) brine shrimp? I used to feed this 2x a week in my 180g and saw phenomenal growth rates from all my corals.

Just a few thoughts, keep up the great work!
Thanks! I hadn't ever heard of the panta pump before. You are thinking that they could just be used on the overflow end of the peninsula and the far end could have nothing? That would be pretty nice, but I just wonder if that would be able to provide even flow to the far side of the tank. I have played around with watching flow after feeding a bunch of frozen mysys. When I have just pumps on one side, even at max, there is some sort of invisible barrier just past the middle of the tank, where instead of flowing to the opposite end, it curls down and back to where it started.

I have to say I am totally fine with the gyres in vertical orientation. Any way you look at the tank, they do not block the view of anything you would want to see.

And speaking of the pumps, last week I finally got a Hydros Wave Engine! I can wholeheartedly recommend this piece of equipment. It was so clunky trying to get the four pumps synced with two separate original controllers. The hydros lets me connect all 4, and after playing around with it I found a "sine wave" preset that works exactly like I wanted. And the hydros seems to be able to push the pumps better -- 100% and especially -100% on the hydros seems to result in more flow than those levels with the original controllers. The app is super easy to use, I love how it shows real time rpms of all the pumps and how they relate to each other as the wave patterns change.

Anyone considering getting 4 gyres, I would recommend skipping the controller packages and buying just the pumps plus a WaveEngine. Cost wise it comes out the same.

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Sltloser

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Yep, that's exactly what I was thinking. I haven't personally used them so I can't say for sure how they work, but I know a few builds that have them and are pretty happy with how much water they can push. This 450 gallon has 2 and he says they they are able to push 10ft of water at only 60% https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/jasons-467-gallon-120x30x30-tank-build-in-socal.303041/page-5

If you're happy with the gyres though no reason to change them! (They are fairly expensive pumps)

The new controller looks great, it's nice how much it simplifies programming.
 

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Being a noobie, of course I wanted some pulsing xenia and GSP. The xenia was given its own island and has exploded, and I have to say I really like it, it is mesmerizing to watch.


20200118_163036.jpg

Xenia and GSP can also be mesmerizing to try and remove from the tank once they get off their Alcatraz. I am in the process of upgrading my system, and am not putting either back in. Just something to think about before the jailbreak occurs...

Great build - looks like we are going to some similar objectives. I went with the Seavisions Rollermat instead of their drum/screen version. Does it get the small stuff out effectively? No maintenance = nice!
 

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last week I finally got a Hydros Wave Engine! I can wholeheartedly recommend this piece of equipment.
Now this sounds like a great bit of kit, I love my maxpect gyres and will look into this product. Does it have a port for battery backup at all?
 
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blitzkragz

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So thanks to suggestions from R2R folks, my sump plans were finalized and I have placed the order with advancedacrylics.com for the custom build. The sump will be 1" rimless acrylic, according to them the largest rimless sump they have built and fourth largest overall. They estimate the build time to be 6-8 weeks. I am pumped!

A main goal with this sump is being able to have a massive yet automated/low-maintenance pod population, enough to feed a couple mandarins in the display. Everything I have read about pods indicates that to have a self-replenishing population, you need both phytoplankton and a safe water column for juvenile pods to eat the phyto and grow large enough to cling to structure.

Since the drum filter would mean certain death for free-swimming juveniles, I needed a way to keep them in, so I am going to try using a filter screen wall insert in the fuge with the same nylon mesh I used for the drum filter. That might also spread the already low suction across a much larger surface area.

But then the problem was, how to export adult pods if there is a screen in their way? Apparently adult pods love to colonize loofahs (the shower sponge thingies), so I am going to try motorizing a nightly loofah transport up/out of the fuge and down into the return. Loofthansa!

Capture.JPG
 
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How are you going transport the loofah full of pods to the display?
Wouldnt it be easier to do a refugium with chaeto up by the tank or downstairs over the sump past the drum filter?

I love your innovations with this, just trying to understand why you would have what appear to be unnecessarily complicated solutions for this.

Love the term Loofthansa as well....
 

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So thanks to suggestions from R2R folks, my sump plans were finalized and I have placed the order with advancedacrylics.com for the custom build. The sump will be 1" rimless acrylic, according to them the largest rimless sump they have built and fourth largest overall. They estimate the build time to be 6-8 weeks. I am pumped!

A main goal with this sump is being able to have a massive yet automated/low-maintenance pod population, enough to feed a couple mandarins in the display. Everything I have read about pods indicates that to have a self-replenishing population, you need both phytoplankton and a safe water column for juvenile pods to eat the phyto and grow large enough to cling to structure.

Since the drum filter would mean certain death for free-swimming juveniles, I needed a way to keep them in, so I am going to try using a filter screen wall insert in the fuge with the same nylon mesh I used for the drum filter. That might also spread the already low suction across a much larger surface area.

But then the problem was, how to export adult pods if there is a screen in their way? Apparently adult pods love to colonize loofahs (the shower sponge thingies), so I am going to try motorizing a nightly loofah transport up/out of the fuge and down into the return. Loofthansa!

Capture.JPG
What frozen phyto cubes will you be dosing that you mention in the illustration?
 
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blitzkragz

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What frozen phyto cubes will you be dosing that you mention in the illustration?
Watch Reefgrrl's AMAZING video on this. Get a $50 bottle of concentrated phyto, and use small ice cube trays to portion it out into doses. It stays good 2 YEARS in the freezer, and the bottle has enough to dose 100 gal of water well over a year. And dosing it is so incredibly simple.
 

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If you want to get rid of all those power head mess and dont like the gyres then just get Panta rheis. 2 of those should create enough waves for your fishes. They are almost maintenance free and built to last. They cost quite a bit but they are monsters.
Here is the link

You dont see them much because of the price and overhyped ecotech market but if you own them then you will never go back.
 

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Watch Reefgrrl's AMAZING video on this. Get a $50 bottle of concentrated phyto, and use small ice cube trays to portion it out into doses. It stays good 2 YEARS in the freezer, and the bottle has enough to dose 100 gal of water well over a year. And dosing it is so incredibly simple.

Interesting. I may have to try this. How do you think this compares to culturing fresh phytoplankton to dose regularly? I've considered culturing my own, but to be honest, Idk if I want to add that to my daily/regular routine.
 

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How are you going transport the loofah full of pods to the display?
Wouldnt it be easier to do a refugium with chaeto up by the tank or downstairs over the sump past the drum filter?

I love your innovations with this, just trying to understand why you would have what appear to be unnecessarily complicated solutions for this.

Love the term Loofthansa as well....

Correct me if I'm wrong Blitzkragz, but I think your thought process was that by moving the luffa to the next chamber pods would establish themselves closer to the return pumps. This would hopefully bring adults or juveniles up into the aquarium. This is a good idea, however i'm not sure they would survive the return trip back into the aquarium. You may be better off trying to make microhabitats in the aquarium that will foster pod growth (ie. places fish can't get into that they can shelter/breed in).

I would also caution against freezing your phyto. I believe that freezing will cause the planktonic cells to undergo lysis (breaking or exploding) and basically become a jumbled mess of cell parts. This would, in my opinion, negate the point of feeding phyto as organisms will not be able to ingest the full cells as they normally would (filter feeders may still catch the cell pieces, but smaller invertebrates may not be able to).
 
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blitzkragz

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Interesting. I may have to try this. How do you think this compares to culturing fresh phytoplankton to dose regularly? I've considered culturing my own, but to be honest, Idk if I want to add that to my daily/regular routine.
I can't really say how it would compare, but I know that I wouldn't be able to keep up with culturing my own phyto on top of everything else. But I can toss an ice cube into the sump every couple days. If frozen is close and produces results, that is good enough for me.
 
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blitzkragz

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Correct me if I'm wrong Blitzkragz, but I think your thought process was that by moving the luffa to the next chamber pods would establish themselves closer to the return pumps. This would hopefully bring adults or juveniles up into the aquarium. This is a good idea, however i'm not sure they would survive the return trip back into the aquarium. You may be better off trying to make microhabitats in the aquarium that will foster pod growth (ie. places fish can't get into that they can shelter/breed in).

I would also caution against freezing your phyto. I believe that freezing will cause the planktonic cells to undergo lysis (breaking or exploding) and basically become a jumbled mess of cell parts. This would, in my opinion, negate the point of feeding phyto as organisms will not be able to ingest the full cells as they normally would (filter feeders may still catch the cell pieces, but smaller invertebrates may not be able to).
The thought process with the luffa isn't to establish anything -- the goal is a repeatable way to "dose adult pods" that have grown in the fuge into the display.

Juvenile pods are free swimming and cannot cling to structure. So i want to keep them out of the display water column, because they eventually meet their demise from the drum filter before they have a chance to grow up.

Adult pods will find and cling to structure. Structure being a loofah. By moving a loofah laden with adult pods from the fuge into the return chamber, shaking it a bit and moving flow through it, the pods would get dislodged from the loofah and sucked into the pump and up to the display (some will perish, but most will survive this) at night when they have the best chance to find structure before being eaten.

Regarding freezing the phyto, I am just going by what the manufacturer lists here, where they state "Bottled phytoplankton must be kept refrigerated (will keep for 2 months) or frozen (will keep for 2 years). " I would watch reefgrrl's video above if you haven't already, she certainly saw results from frozen phyto.
 
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blitzkragz

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How are you going transport the loofah full of pods to the display?
Wouldnt it be easier to do a refugium with chaeto up by the tank or downstairs over the sump past the drum filter?

I love your innovations with this, just trying to understand why you would have what appear to be unnecessarily complicated solutions for this.

Love the term Loofthansa as well....
Something like this. One stepper raises and lowers, another slides it along horizontally to and from the return. It is not transporting them to the display, it is transporting them about a foot over the fuge chamber to the return chamber to get sucked into the pump and then up to the display. I plan to play with a baffle to channel the water through the loofa when it is in the return section to loosen pods on their way to the pump.

I am convinced the best route since I have lots of space is separate chaeto and pods into different places. You will notice in the new sump there is no plan for chaeto. Chaeto needs more flow than I want to have in the pod fuge. And chaeto/macro is messy -- after growing a bunch, I have come to the conclusion I definitely want that to be before the drum filter, not after. Pods don't eat the chaeto, they eat phyto and detritus, the chaeto they use just as a structure to cling to. A loofah serves just as well for that kind of structure.

So for the chaeto, I am planning a self trimming rotating growing chaeto wheel, which sits before the drum filter so the clippings get caught by the drum filter. More on that later!

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