Brand New 8 gallon bio cube

KindAdmirableGeese-small.gif

This is why you’re not experiencing parameter breaking coral growth like I am.

You’re not doing it right.

I keep it simple for the MANY that follow my feeding protocol (the numbers are growing every week):

Monday:
reef energy a + b (or amino acid & carb replacement)
Live phytoplankton
Reef roids target feed

Tuesday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phytoplankton
Oyster feast broadcast

Wednesday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phytoplankton
Coral frenzy (or fauna marine) pellet target feed

Thursday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phyto
Oyster feast broadcast

Friday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phyto
Reef roid target feed

Saturday:
Reef energy a + b
Pellet target feed

Sunday:
Live phyto



Results are guaranteed.
 
It's way more complicated than the phosphate/phosphorus checkers. You'll be fine tho, I'm sure.

There’s one more chemical and a lot less timing mixing stuff. The timing with the phosphorous checker is where it gets tough.

I hope I have it, I should reconsider things if not.
 
Last edited:
Everything I've read says they aren't the greatest, I have a Hanna Alk and ULR Phos but skipped on the calc because of all the bad reviews I've read...
1ml liquid reagent, 9ml RODI.
Close curvete and turn on meter
At C1 insert curvete and press button
At C2 remove curvete, add powder reagent and add 100ųl of sample water(yes 0.1ml)
Close curvete and shake
Place curvete inside
Press button
Wait for meter to tell you you have 600ppm Ca

Repeat steps and get 200

Repeat again and get error.
 
This is why you’re not experiencing parameter breaking coral growth like I am.

You’re not doing it right.

I keep it simple for the MANY that follow my feeding protocol (the numbers are growing every week):

Monday:
reef energy a + b (or amino acid & carb replacement)
Live phytoplankton
Reef roids target feed

Tuesday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phytoplankton
Oyster feast broadcast

Wednesday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phytoplankton
Coral frenzy (or fauna marine) pellet target feed

Thursday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phyto
Oyster feast broadcast

Friday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phyto
Reef roid target feed

Saturday:
Reef energy a + b
Pellet target feed

Sunday:
Live phyto



Results are guaranteed.
I uh, usually dump in some LRS Reef Frenzy.

Tonight I made a concoction. LRS Reef Frenzy, Reef Roids, Elos Fresco cyclops pods, Reef Nutrition ROE and Elos Spirulina pellets

(not impressed at all with Elos Spirulina, but I generally hate pellet food)
 
1ml liquid reagent, 9ml RODI.
Close curvete and turn on meter
At C1 insert curvete and press button
At C2 remove curvete, add powder reagent and add 100ųl of sample water(yes 0.1ml)
Close curvete and shake
Place curvete inside
Press button
Wait for meter to tell you you have 600ppm Ca

Repeat steps and get 200

Repeat again and get error.
I would highly recommend my Salifert test. The first time I used it, I was shocked at the 310 result. I tested twice more and got 310 both times. That’s good enough for me, it has earned my trust.
 
This is why you’re not experiencing parameter breaking coral growth like I am.

You’re not doing it right.

I keep it simple for the MANY that follow my feeding protocol (the numbers are growing every week):

Monday:
reef energy a + b (or amino acid & carb replacement)
Live phytoplankton
Reef roids target feed

Tuesday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phytoplankton
Oyster feast broadcast

Wednesday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phytoplankton
Coral frenzy (or fauna marine) pellet target feed

Thursday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phyto
Oyster feast broadcast

Friday:
Reef energy a + b
Live phyto
Reef roid target feed

Saturday:
Reef energy a + b
Pellet target feed

Sunday:
Live phyto



Results are guaranteed.
What do you feed them fish
 
I would highly recommend my Salifert test. The first time I used it, I was shocked at the 310 result. I tested twice more and got 310 both times. That’s good enough for me, it has earned my trust.
I use salifert and red sea. I would recommend either one. I prefer Red Sea, but salifert is cheaper initially. Red sea is more upfront cost, but the vials and droppers are nicer quality(selling point for me) and the refills are cheaper. Salifert you have to buy a new kit every time.

I would never recommend anybody buy the Hanna anything other than Alk and ULR phosphate. Their Ca checker and the pHep are complete junk. Especially the HI98107 pHep... don't get me started on that.

Ok I started myself. My first pet peeve is the calibration. You calibrate to 7.0, and then like 4.5, and they expect it to be accurate at 8.0? And then, once you finish testing you have to keep the sensor wet, so you'd think they would be smart enough to include a cap capable of holding a storage solution of some sort. Nope. The **** thing sprays every bit of solution out when you try to close it and then anything that is left leaks out or evaporates because it's not air tight. The thermometer works well and the battery lasts a long time, so I guess they got something right.
 
I would highly recommend my Salifert test. The first time I used it, I was shocked at the 310 result. I tested twice more and got 310 both times. That’s good enough for me, it has earned my trust.
I use salifert as well except for salt wich is a refractometer
 
Anyway like I said a couple days ago , I dont test water except on raaaaaare occasions.
 
I use salifert and red sea. I would recommend either one. I prefer Red Sea, but salifert is cheaper initially. Red sea is more upfront cost, but the vials and droppers are nicer quality(selling point for me) and the refills are cheaper. Salifert you have to buy a new kit every time.

I would never recommend anybody buy the Hanna anything other than Alk and ULR phosphate. Thre Ca checker and the pHep address complete junk. Especially the HI98107 pHep... don't get me started on that.

Ok I started myself. My first pet peeve is the calibration. You calibrate to 7.0, and then like 4.5, and they expect it to be accurate at 8. 0? And then, once you finish testing you have to keto the sensor wet, so you'd think they would be smart enough to include a cap capable of holding a storage solution of some sort. Nope. The **** thing sprays every bit of solution out when toy tru to close it and then anything that is left leaks out or evaporates because it's not air tight. The thermometer works well and the battery lasts a long time, so I guess they hit something right.

What is the “first stop” hanna is referring to? I feel some tension halfway through the button click but not enough to do it consistently.

Am I misinterpreting what they are saying?
 
What is the “first stop” hanna is referring to? I feel some tension halfway through the button click but not enough to do it consistently.

Am I misinterpreting what they are saying?
I know exactly what you're talking about.

Normal

20191212_221616.jpg


First stop (you'll feel it kinda want to stop, like hitting a second spring)

20191212_221621.jpg


Second stop, **** deep

20191212_221625.jpg
 
Lemme know how it is. I still will probably rely on my trusty refractometer tho.
I've heard and read great things about it. Even compared to the milwaukee unit it's supposedly better, isn't affected by light, floats and is much cheaper.
I'll definitely give a review on it though.
 
The problem with the Hanna Ca checker is the sample size. It's too small. The margin of error is crazy. 0.01ml off in your sample is a 10% error. 400ppm Ca tank could come back as 360 or 440. All from 0.01ml, you know how tiny that is?

Pick your test based on these rules;
Simplicity of procedure
SAMPLE SIZE, the bigger the better.
 
I've heard and read great things about it. Even compared to the milwaukee unit it's supposedly better, isn't affected by light, floats and is much cheaper.
I'll definitely give a review on it though.
It's a conductivity probe. Should be good to go. Doesnt need to be stored in a solution, as long as the probes are clean it should read accurately, and should be easy to calibrate. Measuring salinity with conductivity is pretty straight forward. That's how your TDS meter works on your RODI.
 
It's a conductivity probe. Should be good to go. Doesnt need to be stored in a solution, as long as the probes are clean it should read accurately, and should be easy to calibrate. Measuring salinity with conductivity is pretty straight forward. That's how your TDS meter works on your RODI.
Exactly why I want one, also easy to calibrate and tests temp at the same time.
Switchable from S/G to PPT
and temp from C to F
 

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